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Old 10-03-2016, 04:54 PM   #41
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Red face Reversed 19' pics

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Originally Posted by pkgman51 View Post
Reversed 19' pics...
I have a 19' on order, due next April. Have been thinking of doing the bed/dinette reverse, but don't like that the bed would be low below the windows in the front. It looks in your pics like the cupboard/drawers under that front bed are higher than the 19'' that I was told is the height of them when it's a dinette. Is that so? How much height is there between the top of your mattress and the bottom of the windows?
I like those drawers! Did you have ETI move the electrical stuff under the front bench to the rear? If that's possible, then an outside hatch on that side would be great to get at stuff under there without having to lift up the mattress.
Hmmmm, sounds like I'm totally redesigning this thing, and increasing the cost A LOT! Can I ask you what it cost to do your reverse?
Thanks!
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Old 10-04-2016, 12:47 PM   #42
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19 Floor plan conversion cost

Convert rear permanent bed to u-shaped dinette $500, or $400 if it's a regular dinette.

Convert front dinette to permanent bed is $200 or no charge if they keep it as a front dinette and just put a mattress on it.

Hope this helps your decision making.
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Old 10-04-2016, 04:14 PM   #43
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[QUOTE=curru;162837]I have a 19' on order, due next April. Have been thinking of doing the bed/dinette reverse, but don't like that the bed would be low below the windows in the front. It looks in your pics like the cupboard/drawers...

The support for the bed in front is about 16 in tall.. The mattress is about 8 in. in thickness. There is about 22 in. from the top of the mattress to the bottom of the windows. For comparison, the dinette when converted to a bed is about 21 in. off the floor


The drawers under the bed are home-made. They're not too difficult to do. I don't know if Escape would make them for you? You can ask? Otherwise, a local carpenter/woodworker can likely do it. I did have to add a device to keep the drawers from sliding back and forth when traveling.

The electrical converter is under the bed, in the back corner. It has to be near the battery so that's as close as it can get. One doesn't need to get to it often. Otherwise, there is nothing under the bed other than the drawers I added.

Hope all this helps. Feel free to ask more questions or to request pics.

Gary
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Old 10-04-2016, 07:46 PM   #44
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Thanks for the info, Gary. I'd assumed that the drawers were factory made. They look great, good work! How long is the drawer on the right, by the door? I would imagine a full length drawer would be hard to install, and couldn't be pulled out all the way without hitting the sink cab on the other side of the door.
I've done quite a bit of woodworking, and was thinking of making drawers for under the rear bed, so I guess I could make them for the front. As long as my son lets me set up my shop at his place once I sell my house and move into my Escape (will be full timing it!).
I'll probably do the whole front dinette conversion to permanent bed myself too, and add a little height under the mattress (flat storage compartments for sheets, etc) At least that's what I'm thinking right now.
Have you been happy with your conversion? Did ETI supply the support for your new dinette? I assume that it folds down in case you want extra sleeping space. Is it attached to the floor?
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Old 10-06-2016, 03:52 PM   #45
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Thanks for the compliment.
I can tell you that clear varnish on red oak is a good match for the oak that Escape uses for interiors.
Yes the drawer on the right (closest to the door) is just long enough to be pulled all the way out to the fire extinguisher mounted on the opposite cabinet.
The drawer on the left is much deeper (36"). It doesn't open all the way as the longest slides I could find were 30"
I love the drawer near the door. It's my "utility" drawer because I can easily access it without having to go inside the trailer.
As for adding height to the bed.... I like it where it is because I can crush a couple pillows against the wall to sit up and read without being against the window.
Good luck with your mods. Send/post pics as you go along. I'm sure the community is interested in seeing how things go.
Gary
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Old 10-06-2016, 04:00 PM   #46
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Oh....as for the table support...
I found a collapsing support on this site somewhere. It's a metal spring loaded frame. It does away with the pillars mounted to the floor. I picked it up from a RV supplies shop in (Elkhart ?) Indiana. It was something like $70. I brought the support with me to pick up the trailer and Reese mounted it. Works well.
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Old 10-12-2016, 10:27 AM   #47
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Another question on your rear dinette: how high are the benches, without cushions, off the raised floor? Do you find the height with the cushions comfortable?
As for the support you have: does it have to be either up or down , or can you adjust it to any height you want?
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Old 03-12-2018, 07:20 PM   #48
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[QUOTE=pkgman51;163018]
Quote:
Originally Posted by curru View Post
I have a 19' on order, due next April. Have been thinking of doing the bed/dinette reverse, but don't like that the bed would be low below the windows in the front. It looks in your pics like the cupboard/drawers...

The support for the bed in front is about 16 in tall.. The mattress is about 8 in. in thickness. There is about 22 in. from the top of the mattress to the bottom of the windows. For comparison, the dinette when converted to a bed is about 21 in. off the floor


The drawers under the bed are home-made. They're not too difficult to do. I don't know if Escape would make them for you? You can ask? Otherwise, a local carpenter/woodworker can likely do it. I did have to add a device to keep the drawers from sliding back and forth when traveling.

The electrical converter is under the bed, in the back corner. It has to be near the battery so that's as close as it can get. One doesn't need to get to it often. Otherwise, there is nothing under the bed other than the drawers I added.

Hope all this helps. Feel free to ask more questions or to request pics.

Gary
Hi Gary, do you mind if I ask how loud the hum is from the battery converter and is it high pitched? I have hearing like a bat, especially when I'm trying to sleep.
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Old 03-12-2018, 07:38 PM   #49
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Hi Y is Me!
Saw your question to Gary and thought I'd put in my two cents worth. I did have the bed moved to the front, am sleeping with my head on the drivers side. There is a medium pitched hum from the converter, not too loud and after a few minutes my brain tunes it out. You could put your head at the other end, no noise there. I am VERY glad that I had the bed/dinette reversed!
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Old 03-12-2018, 08:29 PM   #50
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Hi Y is Me!
Saw your question to Gary and thought I'd put in my two cents worth. I did have the bed moved to the front, am sleeping with my head on the drivers side. There is a medium pitched hum from the converter, !
So, Somewhere between a tenor and bass?
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Old 03-12-2018, 08:42 PM   #51
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Like 'curru' responded, it's a low hum. I sleep with my head by the door, unless the trailer isn't level, in which case I sleep with my head on the high side. One other thought....I'm not sure you would want to leave the converter on overnight? I would think, with the converter running and what ever you're using the converter to power running, you wouldn't have much battery power, if any, left in the morning. I suppose you could also add some sound insulation between the converter and the mattress to lessen the minimal hum. Overall, it doesn't bother me much.
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Old 03-12-2018, 08:54 PM   #52
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One other thought....I'm not sure you would want to leave the converter on overnight? I would think, with the converter running and what ever you're using the converter to power running, you wouldn't have much battery power, if any, left in the morning.
The converter operates when on shore power and turns it into 12V DC power for the trailer. Battery power doesn't require this conversion since it's already 12V DC. Also, when plugged in to shore power, the other part of the WFCO, the charger, is charging the batteries, not depleting them.
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Old 03-12-2018, 09:01 PM   #53
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One other thought....I'm not sure you would want to leave the converter on overnight? I would think, with the converter running and what ever you're using the converter to power running, you wouldn't have much battery power, if any, left in the morning.
The converter charges the battery, not the other way around. While you don't need to leave it running at night (as long as you have enough charging time the next day to replace whatever battery charge is used overnight), leaving the converter/charger turned on will certainly not run down the battery.

In contrast, if you have an inverter, turn it off if you don't need 120 V AC power from it for any extended period of time. Yes, it will run down the battery when turned on, even if there is nothing being powered by it.

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The converter operates when on shore power and turns it into 12V DC power for the trailer.
...
Also, when plugged in to shore power, the other part of the WFCO, the charger, is charging the batteries, not depleting them.
Two true statements, but "other" part? The converter/charger is one item.
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Old 03-12-2018, 09:42 PM   #54
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Two true statements, but "other" part? The converter/charger is one item.
One item yes, two different functions on the board. There's a charger and a converter. I suppose it's simpler just to refer to them as one thing, but I was trying to make it clear that the converter's purpose was to convert AC power to DC, and without AC power in, the converter doesn't come into play. And of course, when connected to shore power, the charger function is charging, not depleting.
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Old 03-13-2018, 12:07 AM   #55
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Okay, my mistake. I meant to say "inverter" instead of "converter". It's the inverter that is under the bed in our reversed 19. Yes, the inverter does hum a bit when used. Sorry for the confusion. In our trailer the converter is under the dinette bench seat in the the rear of the trailer.
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Old 03-13-2018, 04:50 AM   #56
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If you are going to sleep, there is no need for the inverter to be "on" and wasting your batteries, turn it off until needed in the am, your humming will be eliminated.
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Old 03-13-2018, 09:44 AM   #57
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If you are going to sleep, there is no need for the inverter to be "on" and wasting your batteries, turn it off until needed in the am, your humming will be eliminated.

Unless you run your CPAP off AC. Or charge your electric toothbrush at night. Or sleep-cook.
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Old 03-13-2018, 10:55 AM   #58
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I'm thinking of doing the reverse in my 19 as well. Just have to consider if a 44 inch bed is going to be comfortable enough for two people. Having a large U-shaped lounge area at the other end would be great though!
Lay on a piece of plywood with a 2 by 4 tacked on each side and see how that works.
A 44” wide bed for 2?
Now You’re best friends for sure now what about after a week?
But I suppose there’s always the seating area to sleep....is that the dog house?.....lol
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Old 03-13-2018, 11:11 AM   #59
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A switch could be put inline to turn off the charger at night when plugged into AC. Every AC and DC item would work but the battery would not be charging.
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Old 03-13-2018, 11:18 AM   #60
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Unless you run your CPAP off AC. Or charge your electric toothbrush at night. Or sleep-cook.
A CPAP definitely makes boondocking more challenging. You'd have to take a close look at the power requirements and your battery capacity. I would think solar (a means of recharging your batteries) would be a must.

Do they have 12V CPAPs? That would probably be way more efficient.
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