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Old 01-24-2018, 11:39 PM   #41
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I think we'll pocket the $475 then. We can make anything work for enough years to wait until a justified tire change. At that point we can get the aluminum or do a solid overhaul on the steel ones. Leery, but I think it's worth a try.
We have the alloy wheels, but we're under no illusion that we went that way because of any maintenance issues. We went that way because they just look good. Bling factor. It's the same with our other vehicles. If it turns out that they look good longer than the steel wheels, so much the better. You decide whether or not that's important to you. In the end, it just comes down to personal preference.
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Old 01-25-2018, 12:34 AM   #42
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We have the alloy wheels, but we're under no illusion that we went that way because of any maintenance issues. We went that way because they just look good. Bling factor. It's the same with our other vehicles. If it turns out that they look good longer than the steel wheels, so much the better. You decide whether or not that's important to you. In the end, it just comes down to personal preference.
indeed, they look good.

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Old 01-25-2018, 12:50 AM   #43
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indeed, they look good.

That they do. What color are your graphics? With the light it could be blue, gray, or black to me.
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Old 01-25-2018, 01:55 AM   #44
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That they do. What color are your graphics? With the light it could be blue, gray, or black to me.
black my camera phone did funny things with the white balance in that photo, I've not attempted to correct it.
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Old 01-25-2018, 02:02 AM   #45
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black my camera phone did funny things with the white balance in that photo, I've not attempted to correct it.
I like the black!
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Old 01-25-2018, 07:15 AM   #46
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Thank you I didn't know the specs. Not bad, worth trying out the steel at first maybe. Still hesitant with all of the humidity here :/ our aluminum vehicle wheels look great, but little harm done I guess if we try steel and the rust it too bad
We have used steel wheels for years with various trailers and no serious rust issues. Usually slight rusting where they join the parts or rust in chips but otherwise fine. Now maybe if you have the habit of backing your trailer down boat ramps there might be an issue but since it is not a boat why would you do that.
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Old 01-25-2018, 01:23 PM   #47
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I bought them because I like the way they look and i have seen other trailers with the steel that have rust on them.
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Old 01-25-2018, 01:51 PM   #48
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I had steel wheels on my 17, and it was parked for over two years 1/2 mile from the coast. Very little rust appeared, mostly in the joint area. I ordered the alloy wheels on the 19 simply because I like the look better. I didn't get an alloy for the spare, and now wish I had.
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Old 02-11-2018, 08:50 PM   #49
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levelers - also called marriage savers

When we got our first trailer, a friend said that we needed "marriage savers". She was speaking from decades of family camping in an RV and the need to have a good, simple, leveling system for the trailer. Which meant more than just 2X4's used like building blocks!

We purchased one of these things and it works like a dream. We put it down, guide the driver to slowly back up till the trailer's level, then put in another chock to anchor it, put the truck in neutral to 'seat' the chock, and it's done. No assembly required. No cussin', no fussin', no drama. And they're cheap.

Came across this handy dandy version online

NEW UV Heavy Duty 1 Pair Level Up Caravan / RV 3 Multi Level Ramps & 2 Chocks

Same concept, but with built in chock.
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Old 02-11-2018, 11:39 PM   #50
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NEW UV Heavy Duty 1 Pair Level Up Caravan / RV 3 Multi Level Ramps & 2 Chocks

These chocks are a little different than Anderson, just be aware of the difference, they can be be dangerous. I have not used Anderson chocks, but appear they will not walk off the chock, but these will, especially if the anchor is not used.

For example: I once used chocks like these to level my trailer side to side while it was connected the TV. When I disconnected the hitch, the trailer moved to the side as it rolled off the chock. Fortunately, the trailer moved away from me, or I could have been injured. Just saying.
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Old 02-12-2018, 04:20 AM   #51
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Note the Australian website and shipping charges....
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Old 02-12-2018, 08:53 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by CharlesPou View Post
NEW UV Heavy Duty 1 Pair Level Up Caravan / RV 3 Multi Level Ramps & 2 Chocks

These chocks are a little different than Anderson, just be aware of the difference, they can be be dangerous. I have not used Anderson chocks, but appear they will not walk off the chock, but these will, especially if the anchor is not used.

For example: I once used chocks like these to level my trailer side to side while it was connected the TV. When I disconnected the hitch, the trailer moved to the side as it rolled off the chock. Fortunately, the trailer moved away from me, or I could have been injured. Just saying.
Yes, I think following Ian’s instruction of installing the second chock and ‘seating’ or pre-setting it is very important in all situations, even when not using leveling devices. The trailer must be totally stationary before unhitching. Even 1/2” movement will not allow the yoke to slide straight off the ball.
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Old 02-12-2018, 07:05 PM   #53
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Absolutely one HAS to allow the wheel to settle into the chock by putting the vehicle in neutral before disconnecting! In 5 years of using them (and spending about a total of three years out of the five in a trailer, traveling), we haven’t had any slippage.
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Old 02-12-2018, 10:18 PM   #54
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These are the chocks I bought that gave me trouble:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I still use them mainly to help tilt the trailer at dump station, or if I'm staying one night and don't bother to unhitch trailer. Based upon my experience, I would never again back my trailer onto these, and then unhitch the trailer. I use 2x4 and 3x3 wood blocks under tires to level the trailer side to side when I unhitch trailer.
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Old 02-12-2018, 10:31 PM   #55
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I vote for the Andersons. Been using them for a couple years on my Casita, they level very easily, and are very secure chocks too. With a double-axle Escape, you need a pair of them and one of the pair needs about 2" trimmed off the thin end of the longer piece, so it will fit between the wheels.
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