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Old 12-22-2016, 08:52 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mucram View Post
Also omitted range hood then 2 days ago tammie called & said oops, range hood cut. Went w range hood rather than a a rebuild.
I had a similar thing with my 19. They installed a TV antenna by mistake. Reace offered that I either keep it for free, or they would remove it and repair. I chose the latter, and other than a couple spots in the liner where the bolts had been, I could tell nothing. Mistakes unfortunately happen, I too have made them, but don't tell anyone, okay?
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Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
In that case, I have something you might want to consider - a SAM-1 Range Hood Fan conversion kit from Fabulous Operating Products. Fan is quiet, moves 10 times as much air, 3 speeds, lever for shutting the vent instead of unlocking the flap from outside, and an LED light strip built in with two light levels. Worth the effort.
I have read a few other reviews now, plus with getting your input on it, and have placed the order. I would not want to do without a range hood, but definitely want one we want to use.
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Old 12-22-2016, 10:51 PM   #12
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I have read a few other reviews now, plus with getting your input on it, and have placed the order. I would not want to do without a range hood, but definitely want one we want to use.
Good to hear. There is a bit of fabrication involved, like drilling out the spot welds that hold the cheap tin box fan on the hood, and using snips to cut down the wiring cover a bit, but nothing that's difficult. Did my install in about 2 hours. One thing I did though that really helped, Jim: I cut off some of the plastic on the output end of the fan assembly. It protrudes too far back for the thin walls of an Escape, and cutting about 1/2" off the end (I used a Dremel) allowed for a tight fit along the wall without the outlet interfering with the vent cover outside. You'll see what I mean when you go to install it. Also: replacing the Escape exterior vent cover is completely optional. The SAM-1 works just fine with either cover. Lastly, I had to add some foam along the bottom of the hood assembly where it meets the wall, because of the curve. You won't have to do that with the new flat walls, so there's a plus.
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Old 12-23-2016, 12:09 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by float5 View Post
I would ask about getting a credit added.


I can see that you have put a great deal of thought into the build sheet. I would not, however, omit anything standard on the trailer such as bath sink or range hood, but you have probably considered why you don't want those. Just for others, that is my opinion that buyers may find later that they wish they had those items, and also for resale. Quite a few people end up selling before they expected. Those resale buyers are often very familiar with Escapes and may want those standard items. But even you may want them. Standard items are there for good reasons.

Sure you saw the recent TP holder mess-up and hope you will pay attention to that!

I would probably not spend that kind of money for two solar panels with shaded sights in mind. Many get a second panel that is portable for those occasions. You may not want to bother with one. Of course, your two panels can come in very handy later for you or the next owners if you decide to get a large inverter and boondock.

Looks like a great list and you are set!
Yes, good points about resale. I'm less concerned about that, so I just configured it the way that I wanted.

The range hood is something that I waffled over for a while, but in the end I concluded that the MaxxFan would be up to the task of venting the trailer while cooking. Sure, it will need to remove more air than the range hood since it's not directly over the stove, but I figured that it was manageable, especially with the kitchen window, which I can open exclusively to provide a cross draft. Also, I don't typically sear foods, so smoke is less of a concern for me. I rarely use my vent fan at home. I figured that even if I ended up wanting the stove vent, it would be easy to add one later, whereas removing the vent and fiber glassing the hole would be more work.

Removing the bathroom sink on the other hand was a slam dunk for me. The first trailer that I saw had no sink in the bathroom and I much preferred the additional roominess compared to later trailers that I saw with the sink. There is after all a perfectly good sink in the kitchen that can be used. One drawback I found out later was that ETI now mounts the shower knobs very low due to the new furnace obstructing where the water pipes can come in. It's not like we're going to use the shower much though anyways.

I didn't see the thread on the TP mess-up. I'll look that up. I was going to put it on the wall between the bathroom and kitchen, right below the bathroom belly band, as close to the exterior wall as reasonable to get it out of the way.
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Old 12-23-2016, 12:13 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
I don't understand this. On the door side, the counter extension would block entry/exit. On the seat side, you can't sit there with extension. Maybe I don't see what you see?
The counter extension is only 11 inches wide. With it flipped upwards, you can still get out of the doorway if you traverse sideways. I tried it a few days ago when I visited ETI. Not ideal in this scenario, but I only plan to use it while cooking, and only occasionally at that.
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Old 12-23-2016, 12:29 AM   #15
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I have counter extension to the left of the sink. My feet go under when sleeping, so we don't lower it at all.
We place stuff to go outside on top of the wardrobe and have 3M hooks on the side for stuff you want to access from inside and outside.
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File Type: jpg 3M hooks and check list.jpg (141.7 KB, 34 views)
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Old 12-27-2016, 03:47 PM   #16
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AWG 10 wires for 12 volt drops

Quote:
Originally Posted by paulk View Post
I finished my build sheet today! Happy to receive complements, criticisms, or advice. This is for a 2017 17b which is due to be completed in March 2017.

4- Interior 12V Outlets 1&2) front of the trailer, on the driver side, in the visible upper cabinet face above the upper shelf (forwards of the upper cabinet door), fed by AWG 10 wires 3&4) below the sink, right under the counter lip, on the visible face that is facing the isle, as close to the rear dinette as possible on that visible cabinet face, fed by AWG 10 wires
I see you are requesting AWG 10 wires instead of the usual AWG 14. How much is ETI charging for the larger wire?
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Old 12-27-2016, 04:49 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by richardr View Post
I see you are requesting AWG 10 wires instead of the usual AWG 14. How much is ETI charging for the larger wire?
+$35 per outlet, but they said it was an all or nothing deal, so I paid that on each additional outlet that I added. I would have requested that anyways.

I was surprised that they were willing to do the AWG 10 upgrade considering they didn't want to add some of the wires that I requested in other areas.
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Old 12-27-2016, 05:00 PM   #18
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I am curious as to what loads you expect to want #10 wires, and are the outlets rated for 30 amps?
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Old 12-27-2016, 05:21 PM   #19
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perhaps a hairdryer??..... always the bane for boondockers.
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Old 12-27-2016, 08:24 PM   #20
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Hairdryers are typically used in 20 amp outlets with awg 12 wires. I've never seen anything above that in a residence, except 240 circuits of course. I like the idea of upgrading to awg 12, but can't imagine using anything heavier except wiring batteries, converters and solar panels.

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