Condensation on new 2nd gen?

[Bakes99]

Don't want to stray off topic and believe it still applies, but have another query on insulation.
The insulation between the inner and outer molds that accompanies the thermal frameless windows. How far does it go and where does it stop? Does it stop at the base of the walls or go the entire circumference of the trailer. Is it in the ceiling as well?

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Bakes99

The insulation between the inner and outer molds that accompanies the thermal frameless windows. How far does it go...
Is it in the ceiling as well?

There are no inner and outer moulded walls. The trailer shell is a single layer, largely about 3/16" thick, but thicker where core material is added for stiffness. The optional insulation is added to the inside surface of the shell, then covered with the visible wall covering material.

Jim Bennett showed the layers in a recent thread:
Wall Thickness
In Jim's photo, the fiberglass is at the bottom (his cut-out sample is from an area without extra thickness), the optional insulation is above that (white closed-cell foam), and the standard lining material is on top (black open-cell foam plus vinyl face).

The walls and ceiling have the same construction and insulation.

[float5]

Originally Posted by NCopp

We picked up our new 19' March 17 and drove back to Asheville in 6 days. We have the new thermal windows, extra insulation, and under insulation. We would get condensation on the front window and the door frame overnight. We just wiped it off in the morning. We would put a small towel on the table under the front window but it really wasn't much to worry about. We tried to keep the MaxxFax open and on low when possible, but not at night since it was rather cool. We didn't notice any around the bed area.

Even in cold weather, you will do best to have a window or two cracked and the fans also. That helps the condensation issue greatly.

Edit: It is also never good to have the trailer closed up tightly from a safety standpoint. Use more blankets, run the furnace, whatever to keep warm, but get some air through there while sleeping.

[Bakes99]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

There are no inner and outer moulded walls. The trailer shell is a single layer, largely about 3/16" thick, but thicker where core material is added for stiffness. The optional insulation is added to the inside surface of the shell, then covered with the visible wall covering material.

Jim Bennett showed the layers in a recent thread:
Wall Thickness
In Jim's photo, the fiberglass is at the bottom (his cut-out sample is from an area without extra thickness), the optional insulation is above that (white closed-cell foam), and the standard lining material is on top (black open-cell foam plus vinyl face).

The walls and ceiling have the same construction and insulation.

Thank you for the explanation. Makes sense. I did see that pic a little while ago, but obviously didn't clue to the wall covering.
Much appreciated

[War Eagle]

Originally Posted by laurah

Thanks That is a bit longer than a full

The bed & bedding industry refers to it as a "Full XL" for full size, extra long. It is the same width as a full (54") with the same length as a Queen (80"). Places like Bed, Bath & Beyond stock Full XL sheet sets, and several other stores sell them on-line. We use Full XL sheets (fitted bottom) with twin-sized blankets (66 x 90) because they cover us fine and are not really going to hang off the sides, anyway, given the way the mattress is fitted into the corner. It all works great for us....

[Loren & Cathy]

In cold weather, you really have to have a window or vent cracked. Otherwise, condensation is unavoidable with the trailer buttoned up tight. Loren

[richardr]

Originally Posted by Artlady

The under-mattress Hypervent material seems to help as well. We purchased the material on the way home from picking up our new Escape from the factory.

So glad we did, as shipping costs were quite high. Slumber Ease Mattress Factory (Marysville, WA) was responsive and great to work with...sized the material while we waited. Well worth the investment! I think it provides great air circulation in tandem with the air space around the mattress sides. As a previous post noted, the mattress is slightly smaller than the space, allowing for air to circulate between the mattress and walls as well.

We are also planning on getting Hypervent for condensation control. I'm debating getting it in Washington or ordering it for shipment to Texas. Fisheries Supply web site said shipping was free for orders over $99, but charges $11.40 a foot for 39 inch wide roll. I think we will need about 18 feet for the bed and U shaped dinette of our Escape 21.

I couldn't find a price on the Slumber Ease Mattress Factory web site. Here are my questions:
What is the Slumber Ease Mattress Factory price?
Did you order it in advance?
When you had the Hypervent cut, what were the sizes of the pieces?
Do you use separate pieces for under the mattress and the side and top, or do you have a single piece along the bottom that folds up the side?
Thanks,

[cpaharley2008]

Unless you will be using the rear dinette as a bed full time, I'd skip that part. As far as the double bed up front, 10 feet cut in half would give you 60x78 coverage for the 54x80 front bed with 6" for the exterior wall side

[Artlady]

Originally Posted by richardr

We are also planning on getting Hypervent for condensation control. I'm debating getting it in Washington or ordering it for shipment to Texas. Fisheries Supply web site said shipping was free for orders over $99, but charges $11.40 a foot for 39 inch wide roll. I think we will need about 18 feet for the bed and U shaped dinette of our Escape 21.

I couldn't find a price on the Slumber Ease Mattress Factory web site. Here are my questions:
What is the Slumber Ease Mattress Factory price?
Did you order it in advance?
When you had the Hypervent cut, what were the sizes of the pieces?
Do you use separate pieces for under the mattress and the side and top, or do you have a single piece along the bottom that folds up the side?
Thanks,

Hi Rick and Vicky,
I just sent you a PM. My initial response here was erased for some reason, so, i'll try again and re-post.

Anyway, we paid about $100 plus tax. Picking it up in person cost $10 per linear foot, and we just had enough measured and cut to fit underneath the mattress. So, for a standard queen mattress, this came out to be approximately 10 ft.² of material .

We didn't install the Hypervent along the sides, as we felt it wasn't needed. Concur with what CPA said regarding the dinette. We've found it wasn't needed there, either.

In researching various companies that sold the material, we discovered that large and bulky items ( like the Hypervent) wasn't included in their free shipping rules. So you may wish to double check that. At the time, Slumber Ease charged $12 per linear foot plus shipping if ordered online. To ship to Illinois, the freight would've cost us an additional $40 or so.

No pre-ordering it was necessary. We simply called the store to ensure that the material was in stock. Also, that someone would be available to measure and cut the Hypervent while we waited. It only took about 30 minutes.

Hope this helps. Good luck and enjoy your trailer!