Consolidating controls in one location

StillCampin · 08-01-2018, 01:01 PM

At the risk of getting no answers due to the side track another question has gone, I want to ask what you think out potentially consolidating all the electronic displays and controls in a single location instead of spread out all over, esp low in dinette seats.

I was thinking that the cabinet to the right of the door in the 5.0TA would be an ideal location for the controls as well as other electronics (sat receiver, XM radio, bluetooth converter, audio controls, etc). I realize this cabinet has other potential uses like a small closet like in my 40' 5th wheel, but exchanging some or even all of that utility for this purpose might be worthwhile to me.

The controls/displays would be consolidated, electronics stored away & centralized, and convenient for possibly putting a small subwoofer in a stair. A small circulation fan could be added if cooling was needed.

If you have considered this has ETI been amenable? If you have done it, as part of the build or as a personal mod, have you regretted it? Do you recommend an alternate location? Other considerations?

padlin · 08-01-2018, 01:38 PM

I've not heard of anyone asking before, you'll be the first.

Captm · 08-01-2018, 01:39 PM

Personally, I think this is an excellent idea. In past camper builds, as well as yacht builds, I have always consolidated controls (excluding sensors) to one location. A few issues that arise for the production builder are the extra costs associated with wiring, remote controls, and labor. The biggest issue is what the customer considers a central location. What I consider the best location may not be the same for the next customer.
Cheers!

StillCampin · 08-01-2018, 01:56 PM

I intended to include this pic.

The top is what I have in my Aframe. Being a folding trailer they are on a board that I hang from a shelf that I set up when setting up the trailer.

The bottom is in my 40' 5th wheel, on the wall above the cabinet to the right of the door where the internal stairs go to the bedroom - very similar to my thought for the Escape.

Bogart battery monitor, solar controller remote, inverter remote, EMS remote, etc.
.

cpaharley2008 · 08-01-2018, 02:00 PM

If you look at the website for Escape, there are .pdf files showing standard locations. This will not be changed as ETI had expanded their production, some changes will not be made, such as locations in order to keep production levels up. After delivery one can do what they want....see here http://escapetrailer.com/wp-content/...ocations-1.pdf

StillCampin · 08-01-2018, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captm

What I consider the best location may not be the same for the next customer.

Exactly. Thus one reason for asking for opinions/ideas.

Another possible location someone might consider would be the end of the kitchen cabinet, above or below the sink or even extending a hollow wall at that location between counter & upper cabinet instead of the stripper pole I keep seeing in pics; or even in the face of the upper step.

ericw · 08-01-2018, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StillCampin

At the risk of getting no answers due to the side track another question has gone, I want to ask what you think out potentially consolidating all the electronic displays and controls in a single location instead of spread out all over, esp low in dinette seats.

I think it is a great idea and I asked some questions in this direction for my 21'. For the solar controller the display is attached to the controller and I don't think you want to move that farther from the batteries so kind of stuck there unless you go with a different controller with a remote display. I asked about the "surge protector" (which has a separate display). They wouldn't remount it in my desired location, but they would leave it unmounted so I could put it where I wished.

Feel free to ask Escape questions again. Answers change over time as they adjust to various factors (different trailer, changing equipment...). YMMV.

StillCampin · 08-01-2018, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

If you look at the website for Escape, there are .pdf files showing standard locations.

I've seen that file, which is why I know I want them consolidated. The only thing that "belongs" near the floor are those you don't need access to much, like propane detector, power center/converter & furnace output. With boondocking I refer to the displays fairly often to check battery, solar and even 120 power draw using or not using the generator.

If moving isn't possible then perhaps non-install & left under the bench with adequate wire coiled up would be done.

cpaharley2008 · 08-01-2018, 02:43 PM

Again, when Escape was building one unit a week they could make and did make some of display change locations. But now making 2 per day,they had to eliminate some changes and make standard locations for efficiency. I asked for changes on my 4th Escape and was told "no" for this reason. I understand and accepted that the schematic locations are now standard.

StillCampin · 08-01-2018, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ericw

... For the solar controller the display is attached to the controller and I don't think you want to move that farther from the batteries so kind of stuck there unless you go with a different controller with a remote display.

I have no problem with removing the mppt 40 amp controller & remote from the Aframe and reinstalling the original 20 amp pwm controller that I put in to begin with. I'd probably want the amp capacity anyway with the ETI panel (or 2?) on the roof and my 2 portable 100 watt panels.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ericw

... I asked about the "surge protector" (which has a separate display). They wouldn't remount it in my desired location, but they would leave it unmounted so I could put it where I wished.
...

That is what I'm expecting but it don't hurt to ask - here & with ETI. I'm anticipating some extra bulkhead ports as part of the build and a few additional holes in the floor inside cabinets, either via build or custom.

Vermilye · 08-01-2018, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StillCampin

I've seen that file, which is why I know I want them consolidated. The only thing that "belongs" near the floor are those you don't need access to much, like propane detector, power center/converter & furnace output. With boondocking I refer to the displays fairly often to check battery, solar and even 120 power draw using or not using the generator.

If moving isn't possible then perhaps non-install & left under the bench with adequate wire coiled up would be done.

I really disliked the use of the GoPower solar controller as the on/off switch for the inverter. Doing a headstand every time I wanted to turn it on got tired quickly. I added a GoPower GP-SW remote switch over the refrigerator (on my 21). I did ask if the entire solar controller could be located over the refrigerator during the build (as it was on some earlier models) but Escape declined.

One problem with putting everything together in interference. For example, I discovered just running the coax for a phone amplifier anywhere near the FM antenna cable blanked the FM signal on weak stations. If you have a dual antenna cell booster, you have to deal with proper separation of the two antennas to prevent feedback. Still, I can see the advantages of as many controls grouped together as possible, and at a height that is comfortable to use.

By the way, one modification I did for my FM radio in the trailer was to provide a pair of 3 way switches to turn it off & on, one at the head of the bed, and the other at the foot. Makes it much easier to use...

StillCampin · 08-01-2018, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Again, when Escape was building one unit a week they could make and did make some of display change locations. But now making 2 per day,they had to eliminate some changes and make standard locations for efficiency. I asked for changes on my 4th Escape and was told "no" for this reason. I understand and accepted that the schematic locations are now standard.

If they have become a production oriented shop over a custom shop then I anticipate many deletes and hiring a cabinet maker. For example, in the 5.0 I have no use for the door side dinette seat and want the kitchen cabinet extended into that space, just like I have in a rough manner in my Aframe.

JStelly · 08-01-2018, 02:57 PM

Having worked in the area of human factors in aircraft maintenance studying causes of human error, a case can be made for separation of monitors and switches to reduce errors. While the consequences here are nothing like in aviation there can be errors. So while it flys in the face of our desire for consolidation, a certain amount of separation can be good. Just a thought.

StillCampin · 08-01-2018, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vermilye

... If you have a dual antenna cell booster, you have to deal with proper separation of the two antennas to prevent feedback.
...

My cell booster outside antenna is on a 10' section of 1" steel electrical conduit (currently travels on my truck roof rack) at the end of 50' of cable that connects to a bulkhead port that internally goes to the amp section with the internal antenna pretty much able to be located anywhere within its cable reach.

Definately a build consideration to ease custom installation of the booster.

gbaglo · 08-01-2018, 03:11 PM

I don't find a clump of dissimilar gauge faces and switches attractive. Perhaps if they all were the same family.

StillCampin · 08-01-2018, 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JStelly

... So while it flys in the face of our desire for consolidation, a certain amount of separation can be good. Just a thought.

Certainly a consideration but near the floor is definately out.

StillCampin · 08-01-2018, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I don't find a clump of dissimilar gauge faces and switches attractive.

It is ugly but what can really be done about it? Inside a cabinet or behind a smoked glass door should help.

StillCampin · 08-01-2018, 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vermilye

... One problem with putting everything together in interference. For example, I discovered just running the coax for a phone amplifier anywhere near the FM antenna cable blanked the FM signal on weak stations.
...

Fortunately I use XM satellite for my radio so intererence for FM radio doesn't affect me. But, my microwave does blank out my XM signal with my current arrangement. And I would like to keep this microwave (it's not a cheap one) but it is an inch too wide for the designated cabinet.

cpaharley2008 · 08-01-2018, 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StillCampin

Fortunately I use XM satellite for my radio so intererence for FM radio doesn't affect me. But, my microwave does blank out my XM signal with my current arrangement. And I would like to keep this microwave (it's not a cheap one) but it is an inch too wide for the designated cabinet.

Wait, I was under the impression you did not want to use your furnace to conserve your battery supply, i.e. the reason for the Wave set up. But yet, you use a microwave which certainly will eat more battery power than the furnace? I'd ditch the microwave and keep the furnace, just my .02$ worth....

tdf-texas · 08-01-2018, 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StillCampin

If they have become a production oriented shop over a custom shop then I anticipate many deletes and hiring a cabinet maker. For example, in the 5.0 I have no use for the door side dinette seat and want the kitchen cabinet extended into that space, just like I have in a rough manner in my Aframe.

Some cabinet modifications shouldn't be done because the vertical walls are part of the trailer shell reinforcements. Maybe contacting Reace to determine what can be done would be a good idea.

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