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Old 05-19-2018, 08:59 AM   #21
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This is the pull-up receptacle I put in my trailer when building the galley. Two USB and three 120V plugs. It is nice that I can pull it up just as needed, which is usually one 120V plug at the most. I can close it completely with USB cords connected. Bought at Lee Valley.

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Old 05-19-2018, 09:03 AM   #22
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Can you show us your pyrex perc for gas?
We have a French Press and a electric percolater. We also have an undercounter drip coffee maker in our old Burro. But we are going to leave that with the trailer when we sale sale it. We are moving up to a Escape 21!!!
Boy Jim, your set-up looks great too.
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Old 05-19-2018, 09:17 AM   #23
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Dave I think you mean you wired it in parallel not series.

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Yes, you are correct. Wired in parallel. Thanks for clarifying Doug.
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Old 05-19-2018, 09:33 AM   #24
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Very cool.
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Old 05-19-2018, 09:35 AM   #25
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Can you show us your pyrex perc for gas?
We have a French Press and a electric percolater. We also have an undercounter drip coffee maker in our old Burro. But we are going to leave that with the trailer when we sale sale it. We are moving up to a Escape 21!!!
Boy Jim, your set-up looks great too.
Hi: Avey... Sorry no pics, but you can probably buy one in an antique shop... we've had ours that long!!! Seems by google search they are in much demand. Prices are in the antique realm too.
If you stay married long enough... all your stuff auto qualifies as antiques!!! Alf
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Old 05-19-2018, 11:16 PM   #26
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Lots of options out there for pop-up and pop-out AC outlets and/or USB ports - just a few examples:
https://www.pinterest.com/popupoutle...power-outlets/
That said, the standard one on the front of the galley cabinet under the counter top works for us.
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Old 05-25-2018, 05:03 PM   #27
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I ordered a 21 foot and had an outlet added on the kitchen cabinet as u walk in the door where my popup coutertop will be. I will check up this other outlet idea.. it sounds perfect
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Old 05-25-2018, 06:16 PM   #28
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I ordered a 21 foot and had an outlet added on the kitchen cabinet as u walk in the door where my popup coutertop will be. I will check up this other outlet idea.. it sounds perfect
I have one at the end of the counter too. One thing you should consider, is asking ETI to place the outlet below the table when it's in the down position. That way it's always usable.
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Old 05-25-2018, 06:19 PM   #29
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I have one at the end of the counter too. One thing you should consider, is asking ETI to place the outlet below the table when it's in the down position. That way it's always usable.
This is a very good point, and one we missed. The outlet in our 19 by the entrance near the sink is a bit too high, and is covered up when the flip up counter extension is down. It's not too bad since most of the time we are only using that outlet when the extension is up, but it would have been nice if the outlet were lower. It'd be the perfect spot to plug in a small light for the entrance.
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Old 05-25-2018, 06:42 PM   #30
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This is a very good point, and one we missed. The outlet in our 19 by the entrance near the sink is a bit too high, and is covered up when the flip up counter extension is down. It's not too bad since most of the time we are only using that outlet when the extension is up, but it would have been nice if the outlet were lower. It'd be the perfect spot to plug in a small light for the entrance.
Interesting. On the 2010 the outlet is way below the counter extension in the down position. I wonder why ETI moved it up? It makes even less sense since they started adding the receptacle up high just below the countertop in front.
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Old 05-25-2018, 06:46 PM   #31
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Since this is a electrical thread ? Because of the uv' s the trailer cord is getting real stiff . I keep putting 303 on cord . Is there something I can cover the cord with or something to soften the cord ? Pat
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Old 05-25-2018, 08:25 PM   #32
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Since this is a electrical thread ? Because of the uv' s the trailer cord is getting real stiff . I keep putting 303 on cord . Is there something I can cover the cord with or something to soften the cord ? Pat
Wait, you have the smartplug right Pat? I remember your thread about the install. Is the cord from the original (and was converted) or was a new cord supplied with it? Ours is the original cord, converted to detachable, and is still supple. I grant you however that we don't camp as much as you.

It's a shame that the power cords nowadays have a jacket with alot of plastic in it instead of good old rubber. The old rubber cords seemed to last forever.
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Old 05-25-2018, 08:48 PM   #33
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Thank you all for your good information and the wonderful pictures. You gave us some wonderful ideas.
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Old 05-25-2018, 10:14 PM   #34
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Wait, you have the smartplug right Pat? I remember your thread about the install. Is the cord from the original (and was converted) or was a new cord supplied with it? Ours is the original cord, converted to detachable, and is still supple. I grant you however that we don't camp as much as you.

It's a shame that the power cords nowadays have a jacket with alot of plastic in it instead of good old rubber. The old rubber cords seemed to last forever.
Sorry Robert I mean the cord that hooks trailer to my truck . The detachable cord and the one I made are excellent because they aren't exposed all the time . Any idea's what we can do ? Pat
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Old 05-25-2018, 10:23 PM   #35
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Sorry Robert I mean the cord that hooks trailer to my truck . The detachable cord and the one I made are excellent because they aren't exposed all the time . Any idea's what we can do ? Pat
Ah, the umbilical you mean. No, I don't know of a fix for a stiff umbilical, other than replacing it. Ours has always been stiff. I've thought about replacing it with this Bargman model, which is pre-coiled to keep it from drooping and just pulls out to whatever length you need. They're quite easy to replace, as long as you can use a screwdriver.

I've also heard that the Pollak brand replacement umbilical (just the standard one and not the coiled one) is much better quality than the one that's installed at the factory, and fits the 7-way socket better too.
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Old 05-25-2018, 10:41 PM   #36
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Ah, the umbilical you mean. No, I don't know of a fix for a stiff umbilical, other than replacing it. Ours has always been stiff. I've thought about replacing it with this Bargman model, which is pre-coiled to keep it from drooping and just pulls out to whatever length you need. They're quite easy to replace, as long as you can use a screwdriver.

I've also heard that the Pollak brand replacement umbilical (just the standard one and not the coiled one) is much better quality than the one that's installed at the factory, and fits the 7-way socket better too.
So not being rubber is the issue . Wish I had covered it . Guess at this point I have to replace it. Thankyou . Pat
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Old 05-25-2018, 10:57 PM   #37
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So not being rubber is the issue . Wish I had covered it . Guess at this point I have to replace it. Thankyou . Pat
I don't know that it not being rubber is the issue - that comment was about the 30 amp power cord. I'm thinking as umbilical cords go, this is just a case of lesser quality. As I mentioned, ours has always been stiff.
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Old 05-25-2018, 11:22 PM   #38
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It is below and behind.. But thanks for
heads up!!
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Old 05-26-2018, 07:29 AM   #39
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That flip up table at the door end of kitchen is rectangle shaped (it was in mine) and made exiting the trailer harder when extended, I took mine off and reversed its direction, making it easier to exit while in use and still allowed use of that outlet by the door edge.
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Old 05-26-2018, 10:23 AM   #40
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I'm warning you this is probably more than you want to know about cords, but...

For general information about cable nomenclatures, check this page at DWC Blog. The letter codes give you a pretty good idea of what you will be getting. As the blog points out, cables are available in 600V & 300V (a "J" in the description for the 300V insulation). While the 300 volt is well within the voltages we will find with either the power cord or umbilical, the 600v insulation is much thicker, described as extra hard usage, and is recommended.

The least expensive jacket around a cable is thermoplastic. It is fairly stiff, particularly when cold, but is often used for both the umbilical & the 120V power cords for RVs.

Almost no one makes cable with natural rubber jackets, but there are a number of very flexible cables that work well in the cold. One type I like is Super VuTron, but there are other manufacturers.

Replacing the 120V power cord is pretty straight forward, only needing to select 3 wire #10 cable, and add a connector(s). Be careful of picking up replacement cable at a big box store. Some sell cold flexible cable, but some stock the less expensive thermoplastic. To add to the confusion, some thermoSET cables are cold flexible.

The umbilical is a bit more difficult since it contains 7 individual conductors, at least 2 of which are larger than the rest. etrailer sells a 6' Bargman umbilical with the 7 pin connector already attached that gets good cold weather reviews, but no indication of the jacket type. I'd call and ask about the individual wire sizes since they are not listed, and I would prefer at least #10 for the + and ground conductors. They also have longer versions of the cable.
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