Escape 19 build sheet - version 1

[AKCamper]

I like your build sheet and if I were to delete anything it would be the spray foam insulation on the bottom of the trailer. I know a lot of people may not agree, but as a retired mechanic I would not like to work on something that is foamed in. Also I think I would add a toilet shutoff valve (i wish I had) and an extra switch for the lights (we put the outside light by the door on its own switch). Looks like a real nice trailer in the making.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by AKCamper

I like your build sheet and if I were to delete anything it would be the spray foam insulation on the bottom of the trailer. I know a lot of people may not agree, but as a retired mechanic I would not like to work on something that is foamed in. Also I think I would add a toilet shutoff valve (i wish I had) and an extra switch for the lights (we put the outside light by the door on its own switch). Looks like a real nice trailer in the making.

If I lived where it's cold, or I intended to winter camp, I'd go for the spray foam. Otherwise, I agree. No need.

[Mike & Donna]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

Looks good Mike. Question about the winterizing T-valve though: if you intend to store the trailer in the Houston area, that's not necessary nor is winterizing the trailer. Just blow out the lines and you're done.

Originally Posted by nathanj04011

Even in Maine, the last few season's we had the Casita I just blew the lines out, no pink stuff at all. And no problems. Of course, I could have just been plain lucky, so feel free not to do as I did!!

Originally Posted by rbryan4

If I lived where it's cold, or I intended to winter camp, I'd go for the spray foam. Otherwise, I agree. No need.

I am going to nix the T-valve, not a big savings but no need to pay for something you don't need. As for the spray foam, I was thinking it would be beneficial with keeping the summer heat out. Will have to think about that one for awhile. It's a big ticket item @ $600 and in the end may not be worth the cost. Don't know how much it would impact having to work on something under the trailer but that certainly has to be a consideration as well. Does anyone know how thick the layer of foam insulation is? Durability?

[PGDriver]

On mine it looks to be a few inches thick and it's pretty tough stuff. Besides its thermal aspect It does a great job of protecting the tanks on gravel roads.
Coming home from holidays, late in the season once with our previous RV we got caught in really cold weather, we simply pulled over dug out the RV antifreeze put the hose into the jug and ran it through the system. Ever since I have always had the winterizing valve, it's cheap insurance.
Cheers
Doug

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by Mike & Donna

I am going to nix the T-valve, not a big savings but no need to pay for something you don't need. As for the spray foam, I was thinking it would be beneficial with keeping the summer heat out.

The foam's main purpose is to insulate the pipes/tanks from freezing and to keep the floor area warmer. While there might be some benefit in the summer, most of your heat buildup then will be coming from above, from the sun. It would be interesting to see some hard data or comparison between a foamed trailer and one that isn't, with respect to cooling. My guess is the effect would be minor.



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[float5]

Winterizing may be needed where you take the trailer, not only where you live.

Insulation works great for both heat and cold. We want all of the insulation we can get to keep heat out in summer in hot places and keep cold out in winter (or fall or spring) in cold places. Dennis at Escape told someone that the foam really helped in the Texas heat.

[cpaharley2008]

You can buy the kit for $12 on Amazon, I have at least one in my garage, but for $20 canadian labor it is worth it to have ETI install.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-36543-P...erizing+rv+kit

[Iowa Dave]

Our Escape did not have the winterizing valve as it was not needed by the previous owner. I installed one that first fall and used it from then on. We had a connection failure at the toilet in May one day out of Chilliwack. It wasn't a crisis because it was inside of the Bathroom enclosure. As Escape was doing some other work for us, I had them fix the connection and install the toilet shutoff valve. Cost was very reasonable and reassuring to have should the problem occur in the future.
Plus as a build feature it's under warranty if there's a legitimate problem.
Dave

[AKCamper]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

You can buy the kit for $12 on Amazon, I have at least one in my garage, but for $20 canadian labor it is worth it to have ETI install.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-36543-P...erizing+rv+kit

I agree, and as Doug & Eileen said you might find the need to winterize where there is not air available and with the T-Valve it is easy to fill the lines with antifreeze (of course you could dump several gallons in an empty water tank too. I think it is too small of a savings to do without, but this is your trailer and half the fun is deciding what you want and don't want. We really had a lot of fun doing just that.

[rbryan4]

It's about where you store it and where you camp. While folks up north might think winterizing stuff is essential, we think the same thing about AC. Spend a year down here and trust me, winterizing will be the last thing on your mind. That's why there are options. One size doesn't fit all.

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[Brian B-P]

I would have the tee valve put in - regardless of home location - because it is easier than doing it myself, and the cost is trivial. I agree with putting in what suits your conditions, but we're talking about thirty-five bucks here, not a thousand.

While the foam is probably a good idea, I would hate to work around it. Unlike some features which are buried behind wall covering or which require other parts to move, it could easily be added later, if you're uncertain.