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Old 08-30-2013, 02:07 PM   #11
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I can also say that when I converted my closet in the 19' to shelves, I had no space for jackets. That said you have 4 drawers in the 21' and a closet and a lot more o/h space than your Casita.
I have some tentative plans on cutting the closet in half vertically so I can hang 2-3 winter coats and then a hanging closet organizer like this Amazon.com: Whitmor 6351-1234-JAVA Fashion Color Organizer Collection Hanging Accessory Shelves, Java: Home & Kitchen
Do you have the dimensions of the closet yet?
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Old 08-30-2013, 03:17 PM   #12
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Jim, thanks for the build sheet. I saw it before but couldn't find it again. Our closet will be divided vertically like you suggested, but with stationary shelving. We have a need for hanging space, but not as much as provided in the standard closet. We do however need shelving space. I'll try to attach a picture of our Casita closet for reference. Our build sheet includes most of what you have here, but I do have a few questions: Aren't the standard axles EX lube axles? Is the front exterior light an option? What is a tire levee?
I like your idea of setting up two locations to mount the TV and will be adding that to our list. We are adding an extra access under the bed on the angle along with the standard access. I'm also asking for a pressurized shock to hold up the access cover under the mattress. We're also getting the oven option with a black hood and cover. We're asking Reace to save the drawers by moving them to the left. We're getting the spray foam insulation, but I didn't think about color. Is it normally in white? We're also getting the bed/bath wall and door re-enforced. We've asked for a switch to turn the interior overhead lights at the entrance door with the standard switch controlling the exterior lights. We're moving the thermostat mounting spot up out of the way of the TV. We'r moving the hot water heater switch next to the tank level indicators to keep it out of grandchildren reach. We're moving the AC outlet on the night stand up where the hot water switch was for convenience and moving the one in the bedroom next to the bathroom wal, along with another DC port. We're also adding an AC outlet on the closet wall just under the upper side cabinet (with a coax port) for the TV.
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Old 08-30-2013, 06:44 PM   #13
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I went with dc led tv/dvd so additional 120v outlets were not needed for tv, just dc outlets.
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Old 08-30-2013, 08:41 PM   #14
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Good call. The TV/DVD units, do they play Blu-Ray? If so, can you give me a make and model number? I just purchased a TV, but it's not opened yet.
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Old 08-31-2013, 08:25 AM   #15
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No, Blu-ray is another type of player, I got this one on Amazon, standard dvd player, I do not nor am I familiar with blu-ray players. Amazon.com: NAXA NTD-1552 15.6-Inch Widescreen HD LED TV with Built-in Digital TV Tuner and USB/SD Inputs and DVD Player: Electronics
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Old 08-31-2013, 12:31 PM   #16
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Aren't the standard axles EX lube axles? Is the front exterior light an option? What is a tire levee?
The tire levee is standard for export vehicles, exterior front light is an option, EZ lube axles is an option also.
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Old 09-01-2013, 03:53 PM   #17
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Escape 21 build

I think the forward light will come in handy for the storage box, and the EZ-Lube axles on my Casita made it easy to keep the bearings lubed, so I'm adding both of these options to our build. I don't think we'll need the extra current capacity of the double 6V batteries, but another 12V battery for $50 is a pretty good deal, so we're adding one of those too. I'm thinking seriously of having an HDMI cable strung between the Dinette upper cabinet next to the fridge and the cabinet above the End Table (where the TV is set to reside). We're having most all the walls re-enforced, Dinette/Fridge, Dinette/Kitchen, Bedroom/Bathroom, Closet, and Bathroom Door. This gives us options for personalizing it as we learn about the trailer and how we're going to use it.
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Old 09-01-2013, 04:40 PM   #18
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It is not another 12v battery, it is an upgrade from the stock group 27 battery to the group 29 which has 128 a/h reserve versus the stock battery is somewhere around 90 a/h. It is like getting another 40% increase in capacity.
You have not mentioned your tow vehicle.
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Old 09-01-2013, 05:45 PM   #19
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Tow vehicle

Thanks for letting me know about the battery, that explains the price. I'm towing with a Honda Ridgeline. It was great with our Casita 17'. We averaged 16mpg on our last 3000 mile vacation. Hope it works out OK with the Escape 21? I also tow with my 74 Bronco when I play in the sand, but I think the 21 will be too much to control. On another subject; My wife and I believe we saw a two tone graphic applied to a trailer in production. When we asked for the same we were told that they never do that. Were we seeing things, or are two tone graphics an option?
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Old 09-01-2013, 07:09 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAfraser View Post
I think the forward light will come in handy for the storage box, and the EZ-Lube axles on my Casita made it easy to keep the bearings lubed, so I'm adding both of these options to our build. I don't think we'll need the extra current capacity of the double 6V batteries, but another 12V battery for $50 is a pretty good deal, so we're adding one of those too. I'm thinking seriously of having an HDMI cable strung between the Dinette upper cabinet next to the fridge and the cabinet above the End Table (where the TV is set to reside). We're having most all the walls re-enforced, Dinette/Fridge, Dinette/Kitchen, Bedroom/Bathroom, Closet, and Bathroom Door. This gives us options for personalizing it as we learn about the trailer and how we're going to use it.
Just a suggestion - I had Reace add an amplified cell phone antenna to my 17B, the antenna at the rear of the trailer and the amplifier in the front, driver's side overhead cabinet. Everything was fine until I damaged and had to replace the antenna. Since the cable was permanently attached to the antenna, I had to redo the entire run.

While I managed, it was a lot of work, including using an inspection camera to find a path behind the shower.

If you are going to make any kind of cable run from the front to back, my suggestion is to have them run a piece of 3/4" or even 1" plastic conduit rather than just the wire. If you ever need to replace the cable or run a new one, it is far easier to make a pull through conduit rather than a new run.
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