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Old 05-02-2019, 08:29 AM   #1
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Off-The Printed Build Sheets

This is a spin off from a current thread about build sheets...
It seems that a number of people have made special requests of ETI, for particular reasons, that ETI has agreed to. One that comes to mind (a deletion instead of addition in this case) was the member who did not want the little shelf above the bed in the 21’ so they would be able to sit up in bed and read. That seems a small but important fact to know for some people! I’ve also seen some special requests having to do with cabinet doors and electrical. Please chime in with your special requests and the whys behind them...
Thank you again to those who have paved the way for the rest of us!
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Old 05-02-2019, 08:37 AM   #2
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Do not be afraid to ask, the answer can be yes or no. Deletions are common, as long as they do not impact the integrity of the trailer. Additions also are limitless....Switching sink and stove locations was common originally, but now there is a fee, similarly turning the stove 90 degrees to eek out a little more counter space. I do not think moving windows is an option nor appliances. Electrical inside seems limitless as well as additional 12v outlets. I think anything that does not impede construction will be allowed, generally.
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Old 05-02-2019, 11:00 AM   #3
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Some things are on the build sheet but not obvious how they can be used. For example my RV 65 WeBoost cell signal booster uses Coax cable just like wiring for TV. We don’t watch TV while camping so we used the “Wire for TV” to have a Coax port installed under the rear passenger taillight. The Coax was terminated in the cabinet above the passenger dinette bench, then another Coax cable was routed from that location to the upper cabinet forward of the door on the passenger side. (Same place as the awning remote antenna.) This was for the interior cell antenna. Of course there were two charges, one for the TV port and one for the special routing.

It took a bit of explanation that was assisted by the fact that we are lucky enough to be only 3 hours away from the factory so could finalize our build sheet in person.

I then had to do the install of the booster and other components. (I also requested a 12V drop for the booster)

You can see the interior cell booster antenna in the attached photo high on the cabinet face to the right.
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Old 05-02-2019, 11:49 AM   #4
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Our off the menu build items included:

Additional light in bathroom. I fitted a red filter to this for a non-blinding option in the middle of the night.

12V drops in every cabinet, for a variety of things, from cellular booster, cabinet lights, weather station power, etc.

Several additional wires run for aftermarket things like battery monitor, temperature sensors for aftermarket solar controller, and an interior switch wired to turn exterior marker lights on and off.

We substituted a flush mount battery cutoff switch that ETI installed during the build. The stock one is easily flipped accidentally.

We had the solar controller emplaced inside a bench instead of normal mounting as we planned to change it out for a different controller and we didn’t want an incorrectly sized hole that we’d have to deal with.

Two solar panels. Better for winter or partial shade use.

Extra porch lights on front and rear, and amber lens on passenger side light, all wired to an interior switch.

Custom solar port (for portable panel, for when roof solar needs a boost) that allows use of standard shore power cord, removing need for a dedicated solar cable.

2” vents installed in all interior cabinets, to enhance ventilation and reduce chance of moisture buildup and mold/mildew. Cheaper and easy to do this yourself if you have a hole saw. I later found the same vents on Amazon that ETI had used.

Shelves added to closet as we rarely hang things, and if we need to then we do it on...

Umbra hooks. To hang coats.

Additional, low mounted grab handle. For kids. Or dwarves.

Mattress cover, fully wrap around, done in same custom fabric as seat cushions and valances.

Cell booster antenna. I don’t think they do these anymore.

Wi-Fi booster antenna. Also don’t do these any more.

Table legs not fitted. Springfield pedestal installed at orientation.

Extra sewer tubes. Handy for an extra stinky slinky, or a collapsible ladder. Or fishing poles. We have three tubes.

Reinforced walls where we thought we might want to attach things beyond what command strips can handle.

Hope this helps.

Cheers, Scott
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Old 05-02-2019, 12:02 PM   #5
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Now that is helpful.
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Old 05-02-2019, 12:07 PM   #6
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My special requests on a 2018 17A: (no charge unless indicated)

Do not install cooktop cover, provide at OR (the former cooktop, not the current drop-in)

Do not install exterior grab bar, install at OR (I'm short...the usual place is useless to me)

Do not install hang rod in wardrobe, provide at OR (i knew I was putting in Elfa drawers to the top.

Amber lens in porch light

Convert permanent bed to standard dinette. I later modified front dinette to single 30 inch wide bunk with lots more room to move around and a seat on d/s and p/s. I can still sleep four, see below. (charge)

Front dinette table: cut standard into 2 pieces, and finish both. straight cut only. piece nearest door to be 20". (charge)

Rear table: do not install pedestal, install cx provided pedestal at OR (springfield)

Reinforce entry wall/side of refrig. I wanted to put an inside handle near door for safety. (charge)

Cabinet door at end of front P/S bench (like in 19' Escape) for interior access without lifting bench. (charge)

Delete "Escape 17" from front rock guard (it shows through when cover is down)

It worked out (but i did not ask in advance) for the 8 inch table filler board to be at the back of the rear dinette. I wanted the Springfield installed so the table could be even with the rise in the floor so it could be used as extra counter space without having to reach, or trip over the rise. If you want this you should ask as the distance side to side is not always the same front to back and the board might not fit. I was lucky.

My trailer's one year birthday is in a couple of weeks. I couldn't be happier, and I was amazed at the way i could customize my Escape. it's perfect for me.
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Old 05-02-2019, 12:32 PM   #7
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A suggestion of agreed to changes...

If you speak with your sales person about a change you would like to have made and she agrees to that change in writing by email, that does not necessarily mean that it will happen that way during the build. Case in point we asked for a second coax port to be installed for out portable receiver and dish. The sales person agreed to that in writing but when we got our trailer, we found it was not installed. Sent copy of the email to Dave in P&S as proof of this and he sent me the port in the mail. I had to do the work.

So, you must compare the things the sales person says yes to with your build sheet. If it isn't on the build sheet, it won't get done. Doesn't matter that you have an email indicating it will be done. This did not upset me since humans are invloved and humans make mistakes. All's well that ends well, but lesson learned.
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Old 05-02-2019, 12:56 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chama View Post
If you speak with your sales person about a change you would like to have made and she agrees to that change in writing by email, that does not necessarily mean that it will happen that way during the build. Case in point we asked for a second coax port to be installed for out portable receiver and dish. The sales person agreed to that in writing but when we got our trailer, we found it was not installed. Sent copy of the email to Dave in P&S as proof of this and he sent me the port in the mail. I had to do the work.

So, you must compare the things the sales person says yes to with your build sheet. If it isn't on the build sheet, it won't get done. Doesn't matter that you have an email indicating it will be done. This did not upset me since humans are invloved and humans make mistakes. All's well that ends well, but lesson learned.
Agreed. And sometimes it works out for the best. Our sales person and I agreed to the additional graphics and charge for our trailer name in person and even talked about where it would applied while we were there in the showroom. Then both of us missed it on the build sheet. I didn’t notice until we received the final photos of our build. (The only photos of the rear of the trailer.)

The good part? Between build sheet due date and Orientation we had changed our minds about the trailer name so had an opportunity to get what we really wanted. I contacted the graphics company Escape uses and ordered the new graphics. Picked them up the day before orientation. It all worked out.
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Old 05-02-2019, 12:59 PM   #9
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I have also heard advice to check each iteration of the build sheet against the previous one and your own list. Human error happens.
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Old 05-02-2019, 01:28 PM   #10
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Custom solar port (for portable panel, for when roof solar needs a boost) that allows use of standard shore power cord, removing need for a dedicated solar cable.

Hi Sclifrickson - Could you please explain more about this? We are considering getting a solar port for portable backup, but I'm not understanding what you're saying about how things plug together. Thanks!
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Old 05-02-2019, 03:36 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by arniesea View Post
Some things are on the build sheet but not obvious how they can be used. For example my RV 65 WeBoost cell signal booster uses Coax cable just like wiring for TV. We don’t watch TV while camping so we used the “Wire for TV” to have a Coax port installed under the rear passenger taillight. The Coax was terminated in the cabinet above the passenger dinette bench, then another Coax cable was routed from that location to the upper cabinet forward of the door on the passenger side. (Same place as the awning remote antenna.) This was for the interior cell antenna. Of course there were two charges, one for the TV port and one for the special routing.

It took a bit of explanation that was assisted by the fact that we are lucky enough to be only 3 hours away from the factory so could finalize our build sheet in person.

I then had to do the install of the booster and other components. (I also requested a 12V drop for the booster)

You can see the interior cell booster antenna in the attached photo high on the cabinet face to the right.
Hi Arnie - "she" is a beaut!! I have a couple questions for you.
1) I like your handles going into the loft, where might I find them?
2) Where did you mount your outside antenna? I was planning to mount mine at the peak (ah, I think I remember now, you are doing a pole or the like with a directional antenna).
So I guess the third (and 4th) question(s) will be regarding the WeBoost, how is it working out? and did you have one in your previous trailer? I am planning on the 4G-X RV with a fixed outside omni antenna at the peak (passengers side) and the inside antenna is a desktop antenna. Of concern is the possibility of creating "feedback" as I will have the inside (i guess it is directional) antenna in the dinette and it will be sending toward my outside antenna. Any thoughts anyone?
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Old 05-02-2019, 06:13 PM   #12
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Custom solar port (for portable panel, for when roof solar needs a boost) that allows use of standard shore power cord, removing need for a dedicated solar cable.



Hi Sclifrickson - Could you please explain more about this? We are considering getting a solar port for portable backup, but I'm not understanding what you're saying about how things plug together. Thanks!

Many users of portable solar panels use a Zamp (SAE) port to merge their roof mounted systems with a portable panel. We used this system on our 17B. Port and matching cable: Click image for larger version

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I didn’t like two things about this setup. First, the cable sticks straight out, with downward force of the weight of the cable levering perpendicular to the plug. Second, it requires you to carry a dedicated cable just for use with your portable panel, and to minimize voltage loss, it needs to be a pretty heavy gauge cable. We traveled for a year in our 17B so I had a lot of time to mull these issues. I realized that I was already carrying a nice, heavy duty cable: the standard power cable. All I needed to do was reconfigure things a bit and then I could ditch the redundant solar cable. I added a 30A twist lock fitting to the pigtail of our portable panel: Click image for larger version

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And when Escape built our 19 I had them install a 30A RV style plug as the solar input: Click image for larger version

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By design, it is impossible to accidentally plug the cable into shore power and the DC solar input, as both use the male end of the cable.

Cheers,
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Old 05-02-2019, 06:38 PM   #13
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Off-The Printed Build Sheets

Quote:
Originally Posted by sclifrickson View Post
Many users of portable solar panels use a Zamp (SAE) port to merge their roof mounted systems with a portable panel. We used this system on our 17B. Port and matching cable: Attachment 38856

I didn’t like two things about this setup. First, the cable sticks straight out, with downward force of the weight of the cable levering perpendicular to the plug. Second, it requires you to carry a dedicated cable just for use with your portable panel, and to minimize voltage loss, it needs to be a pretty heavy gauge cable. We traveled for a year in our 17B so I had a lot of time to mull these issues. I realized that I was already carrying a nice, heavy duty cable: the standard power cable. All I needed to do was reconfigure things a bit and then I could ditch the redundant solar cable. I added a 30A twist lock fitting to the pigtail of our portable panel: Attachment 38857
Attachment 38858

And when Escape built our 19 I had them install a 30A RV style plug as the solar input: Attachment 38859Attachment 38860
By design, it is impossible to accidentally plug the cable into shore power and the DC solar input, as both use the male end of the cable.

Cheers,
Scott


To add onto this, my understanding is that ETI will now only install an SAE (Zamp) port. My neighbor had them put one on his new 19, so I put together an adapter that allows basically the same setup as above (using the trailer power cord as the primary solar panel cable) but able to plug into an SAE port, so he can borrow the portable panel: Click image for larger version

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Old 05-02-2019, 07:51 PM   #14
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Strip Heater

We had ETI add a strip heater ($125) to our air conditioner, and were pleasantly surprised that it kept us warm throughout our return trip, all the way down to 30-ish, without having to use our propane. A little warning to those who like to listen to crickets, birds, and critters—its noise is almost as loud as the air conditioner. Which is good for us, but not for folks who want the silent treatment.

Ya see, my wife needs white noise, and brings her noise making machine with us. The heat strip pretty much substitutes for it. It also seems to be helpful for taming my tinnitus. So yeah, I’m ok with it too; in fact, it really is easy to adjust to.

But the warmth. It really does heat as good as the strip heater in my old Casita. We loved that. And we love this one too!
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Old 05-02-2019, 08:06 PM   #15
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Hi Arnie - "she" is a beaut!! I have a couple questions for you.
1) I like your handles going into the loft, where might I find them?
2) Where did you mount your outside antenna? I was planning to mount mine at the peak (ah, I think I remember now, you are doing a pole or the like with a directional antenna).
So I guess the third (and 4th) question(s) will be regarding the WeBoost, how is it working out? and did you have one in your previous trailer? I am planning on the 4G-X RV with a fixed outside omni antenna at the peak (passengers side) and the inside antenna is a desktop antenna. Of concern is the possibility of creating "feedback" as I will have the inside (i guess it is directional) antenna in the dinette and it will be sending toward my outside antenna. Any thoughts anyone?
Here is a link to the teak hand rails. They are a product for boats. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Your right that I’m planning on a pole set up. My intent is to mount a bracket of some sort to the rear bumper but I haven't worked out the details yet. The brackets that came with the WeBoost RV 65 assume one has a slider with flat vertical sides on which to mount their little “receiver” type holders. Even with the new molds, Escape trailers are not flat. So because of that issue I ran out of time before our shake-down camping trip to figure out a mounting system I can live with.

Your setup sounds more like what John Vermilye has on his 21’. He may be a better resource regarding the interior / exterior interference questions.
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Old 05-02-2019, 11:50 PM   #16
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Here is a link to the teak hand rails. They are a product for boats. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Your setup sounds more like what John Vermilye has on his 21’. He may be a better resource regarding the interior / exterior interference questions.
Thanks Arnie for the info on the hand rails, we don't pickup until June and will decide on hand rails at that time. I sure like yours, of course that neat bed adds so much style to the loft, it looks like it could be something out of Better Homes & Gardens!
I will search some for John Vermilye's WeBoost setup and maybe John will chime in here as well.
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Old 05-03-2019, 12:15 AM   #17
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We had ETI add a strip heater ($125) to our air conditioner, and were pleasantly surprised that it kept us warm throughout our return trip, all the way down to 30-ish, without having to use our propane. A little warning to those who like to listen to crickets, birds, and critters—its noise is almost as loud as the air conditioner. Which is good for us, but not for folks who want the silent treatment.

Ya see, my wife needs white noise, and brings her noise making machine with us. The heat strip pretty much substitutes for it. It also seems to be helpful for taming my tinnitus. So yeah, I’m ok with it too; in fact, it really is easy to adjust to.

But the warmth. It really does heat as good as the strip heater in my old Casita. We loved that. And we love this one too!
I see Heat Strip for AC on the build sheet. I’d already crossed it out because I didn’t know what it was (MY Casita doesn’t have one!), so I figured I didn’t need it. But maybe you better fill me in and tell me how it is powered. I’ve already been talked into solar and an AC unit so I’m open to suggestions!
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Old 05-14-2019, 02:09 PM   #18
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I'm having inside cabinet doors added to both sides of my U-shaped dinette, both with the hinge to the rear. On the water heater side (5.0) I hope the door eases access to water valves & for rearranging/adding a water accumulator tank. The outside door into the entry "drawer stack" is no longer standard but I am having them add one. A requirement was that it be a few inches above the floor.

I am also having ETI add two "flat back" entry hatches, one front & one rear, that I have pre-installed connectors into. This gives me over 10 connectors for just 2 install charges. The rear one has 2 solar ports (not Zamp) and 3 PL259-type connectors for my weather radio & such. The front one has several tv-style F connectors for satellite tv, cell amplifier, etc and a 120 volt input plug. Note: ETI declined to install just the 120v input plug so I added it to this hatch. I will then run the wiring from the various connectors to devices.

On both sides of the propane door (5.0) I am having ETI install "empty" power cord hatches. I will use these with an Extend-a-Stay tee for auxilliary tank input and high pressure hose output.

There are a couple of other things that ETI is doing for me that I am not at liberty to discuss right now but may be very obvious from pictures after delivery.
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Old 05-14-2019, 08:52 PM   #19
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I see Heat Strip for AC on the build sheet. I’d already crossed it out because I didn’t know what it was (MY Casita doesn’t have one!), so I figured I didn’t need it. But maybe you better fill me in and tell me how it is powered. I’ve already been talked into solar and an AC unit so I’m open to suggestions!
The strip heater is a heater coil that is installed inside the air conditioner unit. It beams down warm air, using the AC fan. It was really efficient in our smaller Casita, which didn’t have a furnace, and we never had to use the space heater we brought along.

So we included it on our Escape 21, even though we thought it would just be a useless puff of lukewarm air, that would escape at the ceiling; because, heat rises. Well, happy to say, it works! We had lots of cool high 30 or 40 F nights, and did not have to run the furnace. We keep our temperatures around 68 to 70, without pushing it.

So yeah, for our Escape, we get a heated cabin on the CG $$ electricity, instead of using up our propane. Also, no space heater to trip over in the night, either. But we do love the furnace for it’s quiet operation during the daytime when we rather not have the noise to speak over. We need white noise to sleep. Yeah, I know, that’s funny.

Last year, Amazon had them for retro installation at about $125.
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Old 05-14-2019, 11:00 PM   #20
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... I realized that I was already carrying a nice, heavy duty cable: the standard power cable. All I needed to do was reconfigure things a bit and then I could ditch the redundant solar cable. I added a 30A twist lock fitting to the pigtail of our portable panel: ... Cheers, Scott
Scott, Believe it or not, I know a guy who would look at your solar configuration and fret that you are making electricity go the wrong direction through your power cable (from female end to male end)!
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