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Old 06-15-2014, 01:41 PM   #21
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I have the antenna you linked to - it is mounted on the rear driver's side wall of the trailer using the main part of the mirror bracket. There is a photo of the mount about two thirds of the way down on my trailer modifications page.

Depending on where you plan to place the Sleek, you will want to insure the attached antenna cable will reach. I had ETI add a 12v receptacle in the face of the cabinet I placed the Sleek, and use a 12V splitter to power both the Sleek & a Millenicom hotspot.

One additional point. When storing the trailer over the winter I managed to break off one of the ground plane radials on the antenna. That, plus wanting to upgrade it to covering 4G frequencies (the original antenna was 3G only) required replacing the antenna. In the 17b, the wiring was run in the back of the upper cabinets & behind the bathroom wall. Replacing it was a difficult job including removing the vent & using an inspection camera to find a path behind the bathroom.

If I was doing it again, I'd request ETI install a run of 3/4" plastic conduit between the cabinets on either side of the bathroom to make replacements easy. With the changes in frequencies cell phone providers are going through, the ability to change antennas is something to consider.

I don't know if the conduit idea is necessary or would work in the 19' or 21', but I'd ask...
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Old 06-15-2014, 02:20 PM   #22
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Intermatic FF15MC Timer. Intermatic 15 Minute Spring Wound Timer FF15MC.

this looks like a useful replacement to the ETI existing hot water on/off switch. "set it, and forget it".
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Old 06-15-2014, 08:39 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J Mac View Post
When blowing out the lines to winterize and there isn't a low point drain, where does the water in the lines exit?
You open one faucet at a time. To be safe I pumped anti freeze in the lines using a hand pump. (By passing the hot water heater)
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Old 06-15-2014, 08:42 PM   #24
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You open one faucet at a time. To be safe I pumped anti freeze in the lines using a hand pump. (By passing the hot water heater)
Exactly why the E-Z winterizing set up is needed, to be safe!!
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Old 06-15-2014, 08:43 PM   #25
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To get the RV antifreeze into the toilet lines, someone needs to hold down the handle while antifreeze is pumped in.
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Old 06-15-2014, 08:46 PM   #26
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To get the RV antifreeze into the toilet lines, someone needs to hold down the handle while antifreeze is pumped in.
Not with the E-Z winterizing, you turn on your pump and you then open close each faucet and flush the toilet, all done by yourself in 5 minutes.
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Old 06-15-2014, 08:47 PM   #27
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We were sorting through our various baskets and bins today, and the wife pulled out a little 4" stick I had in there... labelled "toilet lever" -- cut to the right length to hold the toilet lever open when wedged between the lever and the wall.
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Old 06-15-2014, 08:49 PM   #28
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Quote:
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IMHO, when you use air to eliminate water in a vertical piece of plastic pipe, there is always going to be some water residue left, unless you run the air continuously until the lines are air dried. That said, any water left in the lines can accumulate at a low point and freeze. But as we all know YMMV!
Not like one has to get every single molecule of water out of the trailer to avoid popping PEX lines (which can take a fair amount of expansion.) The density of water at room temperature is 0.998g/cm³ , that of water just near the freezing point is 0.9998 g/cm³. The density of ice is 0.9167 g/cm³. The ratio of volumes is inversely proportional to the ratio of densities. So, for example, one gallon of water near the freezing point would make the equivalent of 1.090 gallons of ice. Which means the volume when ice increases less than 10 percent. Since it's not contained in a confined space - water can expand sideways in pipes first. Never had an issue just blowing out my lines.
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Old 06-15-2014, 08:50 PM   #29
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That is one of the biggest advantages to the E-Z winterizer is that you can do it by yourself. I like the team effort.
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Old 06-15-2014, 09:41 PM   #30
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For the last two years I've used air only (antifreeze in the drains). I have an adapter that lets me connect the city water inlet to the air compressor so I'm free to move to each faucet & the toilet to open until the sputtering stops. After that I wait a few minutes & do it again.

No problems & we have 0°F winters. (Not that I ever saw it this year!)
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