Springfield Table Pedestal

[Sawdusty]

For those in Canada who are interested in the Springfield 3 Stage Table Pedestal (Model 1660230), I can clarify the cost. I purchased the table pedestal from Llebroc Industries at a cost of U.S. $283. ($373.73 Can). Shipping was $48.69 U.S. ($64.30 Can) and UPS charged GST of $21.44 Can and a Broker Fee of $66.35 Can. Total cost to get the pedestal was $525.82. Service was good and my only complaint is the exorbitant Broker Fee charged by UPS which is why I don't usually buy products from the U.S.

[jcundy]

I live in Washington, (103 miles from Chilliwack), and should have the exact same on my door any day from LeBrac also, with Fed Ex shipping. $283 US total. ETI will install at orientation.

[Honair]

We are getting a 5.0TA.

Is this the correct Springfield for the 5.0TA?

Seemingly there are a few different sizes. The goal would be to have it as a table and a bed.

We would sure like to purchase the correct size..... in that it would be a real bummer to show up with the wrong one.

"1660230"

3-Stage 1660230-BLK

Yes... we are going black.... but my question is the size.

Thank you.

[Sawdusty]

Originally Posted by Honair

We are getting a 5.0TA.

Is this the correct Springfield for the 5.0TA?

Seemingly there are a few different sizes. The goal would be to have it as a table and a bed.

We would sure like to purchase the correct size..... in that it would be a real bummer to show up with the wrong one.

"1660230"

3-Stage 1660230-BLK

Yes... we are going black.... but my question is the size.

Thank you.

I am getting the new Escape 19' Trailer and I know that the pedestal will work with the table for the 4 person dinette - which converts to a double bed. I believe that the Springfield Pedestal should fit any size table that you have.

[rbryan4]

Yes, the 1660230.

[CarlNH]

So, the Springfield pedestal drops to the proper height for converting the table to a bed? That sounds very interesting after watching the video showing the stock table mounts being removed and put back on! Might want to consider that for the 19 I have on order. Thanks!

Originally Posted by Sawdusty

I am getting the new Escape 19' Trailer and I know that the pedestal will work with the table for the 4 person dinette - which converts to a double bed. I believe that the Springfield Pedestal should fit any size table that you have.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by CarlNH

So, the Springfield pedestal drops to the proper height for converting the table to a bed? That sounds very interesting after watching the video showing the stock table mounts being removed and put back on! Might want to consider that for the 19 I have on order. Thanks!

There are many threads here on the Springfield pedestal Carl. I find it much better than the stock sockets and poles. But, there is another table mounting system you may want to consider as well, the Lagun. Instead of mounting permanently to the floor, a bracket is mounted on the front of the dinette bench. The table base consists of a vertical piece and an arm, and attaches to the vertical mount. This allows you to pivot the table all the way over to one side or the other, and also to rotate the table top, but with nothing on the floor to interfere with the limited footroom. Another advantage is that it is easily removed and stored, and now you have a lounge when a table is not needed.

Although I do like my Springfield, If I were deciding today on a table mount, I'd probably go with the Lagun, particularly with a U-shaped dinette.

One other thing to consider: if you are NOT having the dinette raised on your 19 (ours is raised for a better view), then the mounting screws for the table sockets can protrude through the bottom of the shell. You don't want those holes, even if they are sealed properly. Have Escape not mount the table sockets at all if you intend to change the stock arrangement. That way, there are no holes to patch when you install your base. Or, if Escape is doing the install, supply them with your chosen base prior to your build date. They have installed the Springfield for many customers, but I'm not sure about the Lagun.

[MadCAT3]

Hello All:

As mentioned in a different thread by CRJ (and others), the Garelick/Eez-In 75080:01 Low-Profile Seat Slide can be considered for adding what appears to be about 5 inches of table sliding excursion to the Springfield Pedestal, which may improve access to the side dinette benches and/or rear dinette bench in a U-shaped dinette.

The Dicor slider used by many owners in the past appears to be currently unavailable on the North American market. The standard slider provided by Escape, may be too wobbly for many owners. The Lagun table mount (nicely discussed and illustrated in several threads) provides even more table mobility, but many not work as easily for those requiring nightly conversion of the dinette to a bed...

We plan to try the Garelick in a 2018 21' we have on order. Accommodating the Garelick as I've done it requires drilling 10 quarter-inch holes and countersinking the appropriate surfaces. (One could probably reduce this to only 6 holes.) We plan to use an intermediate plywood piece between the Springfield platen and the actual table that is not visible in the attached images...

We'll see how it goes after installation of the pedestal at orientation...

Best Regards,

Claude

[Micheal K]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

One other thing to consider: if you are NOT having the dinette raised on your 19 (ours is raised for a better view), then the mounting screws for the table sockets can protrude through the bottom of the shell. You don't want those holes, even if they are sealed properly. Have Escape not mount the table sockets at all if you intend to change the stock arrangement.

Just went out and checked mine- screws are protruding about 1/8". Wish I'd seen your suggestion about 6 months ago. Good advice.

It's a bit frustrating that Escape didn't use shorter screws for the install though. Guess I'll be putting some caulk on the screw ends when it's warmer.

[Eggscape]

Here is a picture of the Escape 19 in the showroom and the covered screws from the two mounts.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by Micheal K

It's a bit frustrating that Escape didn't use shorter screws for the install though. Guess I'll be putting some caulk on the screw ends when it's warmer.

It is a bit frustrating, but part of the reason why the screws protrude is the design of the shell right under the dinette. The plywood for the floor rests directly on top of the shell in that area, instead of there being a bit of a gap where it sits on the raised sections that create a drainage void underneath. In other words, the shell isn't flat on the bottom, as you can clearly see from the photos above. The answer is what you suggested - shorter screws. I'm not sure however that the sockets would be stable with shorter ones.

[Micheal K]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

It is a bit frustrating, but part of the reason why the screws protrude is the design of the shell right under the dinette. The plywood for the floor rests directly on top of the shell in that area, instead of there being a bit of a gap where it sits on the raised sections that create a drainage void underneath. In other words, the shell isn't flat on the bottom, as you can clearly see from the photos above. The answer is what you suggested - shorter screws. I'm not sure however that the sockets would be stable with shorter ones.

I have the Springfield base that was installed at orientation but the issue is the same (except there is no caulking on mine). I think at least a couple screws penetrated above the cross base you can see in the pictures because the base is installed about midway between where the sockets would have been. Not sure yet how I'll seal those until I crawl underneath to get a better look. I may have to remove them and sqeeze some caulking into the screw hole and then reinstall - I doubt it will be much of a problem to seal.

I think the screws should just be the thickness of the plywood plus socket flange, then the shape or proximity of the fiberglass underneath wouldn't matter. That would probably mean a custom screw length though with associated sourcing and cost issues.

[Eggscape]

Personally if something is going to go through the floor I would rather have stainless steel nuts and bolts. Put a rubber washer and stainless steel washer in the mix and make a good seal. If you are doing a new install I am sure you can use half the bolts compared to many screws.

[MadCAT3]

Anyone have a notion how thick the fiberglass and gelcoat are in that region of the trailer? Is the plywood glassed to the shell?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Micheal K]

Originally Posted by Eggscape

Personally if something is going to go through the floor I would rather have stainless steel nuts and bolts. Put a rubber washer and stainless steel washer in the mix and make a good seal. If you are doing a new install I am sure you can use half the bolts compared to many screws.

I was thinking along these lines as well but I think at least some screw locations have an air gap between the plywood floor and the fiberglass - I'd be concerned about cracking the fiberglass when tightening the nuts.

[Eggscape]

Never considered the plywood would not be tight to the floor. Even more reason to make sure of a great seal. I would not want water getting into a void and moving/soaking around.
Since I am doing my own raised floor I asked ETI not to attach the bases.

[Micheal K]

In rbryan's post above (11) he mentioned that there isn't an air gap in that area so my concern is likey unfounded but I think I'll just stick with the current install method and seal it up.

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by Eggscape

.....Since I am doing my own raised floor I asked ETI not to attach the bases.

I raised our floor; ask Escape to raise the WFCO converter to the top of the wall so you don't have to. Also have the propane detector raised too if it is located in the dinette.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by Eggscape

Never considered the plywood would not be tight to the floor. Even more reason to make sure of a great seal. I would not want water getting into a void and moving/soaking around.
Since I am doing my own raised floor I asked ETI not to attach the bases.

It's a design feature. The floor doesn't sit on top of an entirely flat surface. Some areas are raised so the floor is resting on them but there are dips so any water collects in the low spots. These low spots have tiny holes so any water can drain out. No more rotted floor. The only issue here is, the plywood happens to be sitting directly on top of the outer shell in the area where the pedestal bases mount. It just needs slightly shorter screws so they don't pierce the shell. Of course, a raised dinette eliminates the problem too.

Oh, and if you're adding your own raised floor (much easier to have Escape do it but whatever) do follow Ross' advice if you haven't already considered it: have the WFCO raised a corresponding amount. Otherwise you'll have to raise it which means cuts in the bench face.

[Eggscape]

Just want to say thanks for the raised floor advice. I have studied as many threads on the subject as I could find and have a plan.