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Old 01-19-2016, 01:19 PM   #1
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What I learned at the factory on 1/19/16

Okay, some (or most, heck if I know!) of you may know these things already, but I didn't. I thought I'd pass these on so others will know.

In no particular order (and of course any listed prices could change):

1. Flip up counters only come in two sizes now - 11x13 at the end of the kitchen counter and 11x18 elsewhere; both sizes priced at $85 each. You can't put the kitchen counter elsewhere instead of an 11x18.

2. $50.00 to get the white belly band instead of the standard black

3. Customer supplied kitchen sinks can not be installed as an undermount (rats!)

4. Custom countertops - the customer tells ETI what they want and they order it from Pioneer Building Supplies. They'll pick it up from there. I knew that part, but I wasn't aware that ETI orders (and pays for it). I thought the customer ordered and paid for it, so that was a "savings" for us right there. (However, the customer does have to order and pay for custom flooring from Pioneer and they will pick it up.)

5. They don't have black screw covers for the countertops. We'll need to remove and paint or replace them ourselves. I was hoping they had added these to their inventory since others are getting black colored countertops.

6. Sarah doesn't think they'll install customer supplied black hinges and drawer/cabinet handles (saw that on a photo of a trailer and loved it), but she's checking with Reese on that.

7. The sink we're getting is 15x15x6 and will fit in the area just fine, even though it's larger than their standard sink.

8. Faucets can be mounted on either the countertop or the sink itself.

9. The stovetop includes a metal cover for safety reasons, but we can remove it if we want. I probably will and will replace it with a custom sized cutting board that I saw someone else post about.

10. $10.00 credit for each window valence that you don't want

11. $125.00 credit if you delete the shades (we're installing Bali blinds)

12. $100.00 credit if you get it bare naked (without graphics) - I've already rec'd the graphics I'll be putting on myself

13. $150.00 credit for deleting their mattress (we're going with a Select Comfort mattress)

14. $50.00 to install customer supplied Horst probes

15. $50.00 to rotate stove 90 degrees

16. Back-up camera is the model #90117 from Tadi Brothers. And, I apologize to the person that posted about his wife wanting to see what was behind them while driving. I was not aware that the camera is wired so that it's on while your towing vehicle's headlights are on! So, it's really more than just a back-up camera. The things you learn!

17. Hub odometer - we install that (it's been mentioned on the forum, but I didn't know if we do that or if they do)

18. They don't install any sort of LED indicator light for when the hot water heater is on (again, the forum has mentioned that feature)

19. A battery monitor cable has been mentioned here, but we're all clueless as to what that is and where it goes

20. The curtain across the front door is standard (some folks were wondering about that)

Whew! Yep, I took lots of notes with me and made lots of 'em there. And of course the price of our trailer went up, even after removing a few items. Which I fully expected.
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Old 01-19-2016, 01:42 PM   #2
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How will you make the Select Comfort mattress work with cutoff corner?
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Old 01-19-2016, 01:52 PM   #3
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How will you make the Select Comfort mattress work with cutoff corner?
Yeah, I know. It's just gonna hang over the edge a bit at the corner. We've been using their beds for over 20 years, so I'll put up with a bit of overhang to continue using one in the trailer.
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Old 01-19-2016, 02:01 PM   #4
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Yeah, I know. It's just gonna hang over the edge a bit at the corner. We've been using their beds for over 20 years, so I'll put up with a bit of overhang to continue using one in the trailer.
I was wondering as didn't know if you had some way for them to custom make one. We're looking at Casper foam ones as they ship free to Canada and get great ratings. They are 54” X 75” and the standard is 54" X 80” so maybe being 5" shorter will make them not stick out over that cutout too much.
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Old 01-19-2016, 02:12 PM   #5
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I was wondering as didn't know if you had some way for them to custom make one. We're looking at Casper foam ones as they ship free to Canada and get great ratings. They are 54” X 75” and the standard is 54" X 80” so maybe being 5" shorter will make them not stick out over that cutout too much.
Thanks for reminding me of the size. The full size bed from Select Comfort is 54 x 75 and the bed frame area in the trailer is actually longer than that, so I'm thinking there won't be much of an overhang. I measured the frame length at 82", which might be off by a smidge as their mattress was on there and it was too cold to spend time trying to move it around to get to the wood platform.

There's also a bit of a curve in the top left corner (as you're looking at the bed) so the bed will have to be a tad bit down from the top edge to fit in that area.

I forgot to measure at what point that cut out area starts.

However, now that I think about it, the Select Comforts have a foam padding around the air bladder, so maybe a bit of that could be trimmed down to fit that cut off edge on the platform. Would have to nip in the edge of the mattress cover.

Will report back to this forum when we actually get the trailer and the mattress is flung on the platform. Photos will be included, of course.
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Old 01-19-2016, 02:15 PM   #6
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The battery monitor cable is IF you want to install something like the TM-2030
TriMetric Model Descriptions, Present and Past | Bogart Engineering
Overkill for most, but a cool gadget for some. More precise then what ETI's controller reports. You'd have it run from the area of the battery/s to where ever you want the monitor mounted. Other then the cable you have to buy and hookup everything yourself.

I believe Jim B had posted a how to for the HW tank LED as well as moving the switch to inside the trailer. We use it, it's a good mod to do. Obviously ETI will not do it for you.
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Old 01-19-2016, 02:47 PM   #7
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Here is a "smart phone" blue tooth battery monitor, no wiring needed.....Batterycheck - Wireless RV & Marine Battery Management.
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Old 01-19-2016, 03:09 PM   #8
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I left out two of the corner pieces when I put the SC mattress in my Casita and the mattress just compressed into the corner.

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Old 01-19-2016, 03:12 PM   #9
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Never mind. I just looked at the floor plan and now see that the 21 has an unsupported corner. Different problem.
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Old 01-19-2016, 04:08 PM   #10
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On #18, they install a light to show that the propane is on on the water heater and they install a switch inside to turn the propane on for it. They will not install a light to show that electric is on and will not install a switch inside to turn electric on for the water heater. I wonder why not but they won't. So we have the propane switch and light inside put in by them.

So you have to go outside to run the water heater on electric. Unless you do a mod.

At least, this is the way it all was when we bought a few months ago.
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Old 01-19-2016, 04:26 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Here is a "smart phone" blue tooth battery monitor, no wiring needed.....Batterycheck - Wireless RV & Marine Battery Management.
Hmm, Jim that looks interesting. Have you installed that unit?
I still have my trimetric sitting on a shelf out in the garage. Been too lazy to install the shunt and wasn’t too keen on cutting a hole above the fridge to install the monitor. So far I’ve been using a 12 volt plug in monitor with good success. May have to have a closer look at this. Thanks. Scott

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Old 01-19-2016, 04:38 PM   #12
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On #18, they install a light to show that the propane is on on the water heater and they install a switch inside to turn the propane on for it. They will not install a light to show that electric is on and will not install a switch inside to turn electric on for the water heater. I wonder why not but they won't. So we have the propane switch and light inside put in by them.

So you have to go outside to run the water heater on electric. Unless you do a mod.
Okay, I understand the first paragraph of what you wrote, as Sarah at ETI did explain that to me.

I don't understand the second part though. Do you mean you have to go outside because you're hooking up to shore power? Or is the electric switch outside? I didn't get into that aspect of the equipment on the trailer as it was cold out and Dirk's got a cold. Maybe next trip it'll be warmer.

And what sort of mod are you talking about?

Thanks
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Old 01-19-2016, 04:41 PM   #13
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You have to go outside to turn on the water heater using a switch inside the exterior compartment. And to turn it off. We turn it on and off in an hour in the morning and in evening as the water will stay hot a long time.

People have shown a mod where they wire into the inside of the trailer to be able to turn the water heater on, on the inside. Since Escape will not do that, I would find out why. Is there a code reason?
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Old 01-19-2016, 04:55 PM   #14
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Laura, The problem with the outside switch, other then the hassle of going outside to turn it on and off, is you forget you have it on. Not a big deal by itself unless you don't think of it and empty the HW heater, like when you get home. If you hook up power to the trailer with the forgotten switch on, and the heater empty, you can smoke the element. At least that's my understanding. I've NOT heard of anyone actually doing such.

On Edit... I wonder if doing the mod nullifies the heaters warranty, if so that may be why ETI wants no part of it. You are cutting the wire to the manufactures built in power switch.
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Old 01-19-2016, 04:59 PM   #15
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I have heard of many people ruining their elements including on this forum, however, you will fill the hot water tank and then may keep it filled the entire season until emptying for winterizing. So the element problem is in the spring usually. Make sure you fill the water tank before turning on the heater when first using the trailer in spring. Some carry an extra element as ruining them is pretty common.

Yes, that mod likely affects the warranty. Also, Escape may not be allowed to make such a mod as far as their building requirements. Don't know.
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Old 01-19-2016, 04:59 PM   #16
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Yeah, I could see myself easily forgetting it was on. What a hassle to have to go outside and all that. Better make sure my PJs are up to public viewing!
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Old 01-19-2016, 05:03 PM   #17
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Laura, The problem with the outside switch, other then the hassle of going outside to turn it on and off, is you forget you have it on. Not a big deal by itself unless you don't think of it and empty the HW heater, like when you get home. If you hook up power to the trailer with the forgotten switch on, and the heater empty, you can smoke the element. At least that's my understanding. I've NOT heard of anyone actually doing such.
I have done that. We had the water heater winterized, left the switch on, because I just forgot to turn it off. In the spring we headed out to camp, and I just plain goofed up and plugged the trailer in before I hooked up the water. Poof! the element was gone. I paid an RV place about $100 to fix it, but now I know how to fix it myself if that happens again. So I think it will only cost me about $25.00 in the future. On the other hand, I tend to learn from my mistakes and now make sure I turn the electrical switch off unless we are actually using the electricity. I know that it is a fairly easy mod to install an inside switch. I just need to do it some summer day. I wish that Escape would offer that as an option
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Old 01-19-2016, 05:05 PM   #18
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In all fairness, the RV place did some other work that was included in that $100.00 So it isn't as bad as it sounds
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Old 01-19-2016, 05:06 PM   #19
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Once I have sanitized the system in the spring and filled the hot water tank, I just leave the outside electric switch on. If we are connected to shore power, the electric hot water heater heats up. If we are (much more frequently) without shore power, we just turn the LP switch on and off in side the trailer as we need hot water. The outside electric switch has no effect when you are not on shore power, running off LP.

For safety whenever I empty the hot water tank I switch off its breaker AND the exterior switch.
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Old 01-19-2016, 05:06 PM   #20
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Yes, it's quite common to burn the element out on the dual's. PO on my 17b smoked it and it wasn't too expensive to replace the element but it never worked and I didn't want to track it down. The propane works great so I just went with the propane only WH on the 19, less to worry about. Don't think the savings on having the dual would amount to much but everyone has their own methodology.
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