whats the best portable solar panel?

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by Ray B.

... Is it possible to plug a portable solar panel into the trailer's 12 volt socket and have the batteries charge? ...

This is not a yes or no question. It is quite reasonable to use a 5 watt panel for months at a time on a boat starting battery. It is also quite reasonable to use a 10-20 watt panel for months at a time on a pair of hefty 6v Escape batteries. When you get up to around 80 watts you can get away with a day or so if the batteries require the normal amount of daily recharge. Longer than that, or with higher wattage you will have to keep a closer eye on the state of charge. At some point it becomes impractical to babysit the charge & battery system. Let a controller do the dirty work while you go fishing. As a reminder, a slight overcharge is also called an "equalization" charge. Just remember to add water as necessary.

--
Alan

[Ray B.]

Thanks!

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by EscapingBuffalo

EXACTLY! Much better said Rubicon! This is what I'm trying to figure out! Thanks.
Dave

Dave: it would be nice if someone with details of the stock ETI solar system would weigh in, but I think this is pretty simple. It can be looked at as if you had a rooftop system and were expanding to an additional panel. The controller can handle it. The tough part is where to make the connection because they are both not on the roof. I would add a junction box somewhere close to the controller to combine your rooftop panel and portable panel port wires. Like others have said make sure the panel voltages are compatible. After reviewing some schematics it appears the fusing between the controller and the battery is imperative, but fusing between the panels and the controller is discretionary. My bet is ETI has included one between the controller and battery.

[rubicon327]

Dave: to combine your existing panel and external port for your portable prior to the controller this would be a clean way to do it. I wonder if this might even fit in the space behind the existing controller.

Refrigerator Vent C-Box

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Dave: to combine your existing panel and external port for your portable prior to the controller this would be a clean way to do it. I wonder if this might even fit in the space behind the existing controller.

Refrigerator Vent C-Box

Personally I would just use 30A MC4 connectors. Easy to disconnect if desired, and they need no junction box.

'tis my current plan. (pun realized, but not intended )

[AKCamper]

Not sure where your controller is located (hopefully close to the batteries rather than above the fridge). If the controller is in the front bench area I would locate a combiner box there. Read "The Battery Charging Puzzle" by Handyman Bob. Google either one and you will see his posts. I think he knows about as much about solar as anyone. From everything I have read you really "want" to get your controller as close to the batteries as possible. Voltage drop from the panel to the controller is not good, but from the controller to the batteries is really not good.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

Personally I would just use 30A MC4 connectors. Easy to disconnect if desired, and they need no junction box.

'tis my current plan. (pun realized, but not intended )

Jim, this assumes that stock ETI panel has MC4 connections and that he can access them somewhere in the trailer. Is this the case? His intent is to split off to an external port for a portable panel.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Jim, this assumes that stock ETI panel has MC4 connections and that he can access them somewhere in the trailer. Is this the case? His intent is to split off to an external port for a portable panel.

I am referring to retrofitting the connectors inline right before the charge controller. If you were cutting the wires to show and attach to a terminal block, you could just as easily put the connectors on.

I only got a solar ready kit from Escape, which mounts on the roof comma and is connected to buy mc4 connectors. The other end of the long #10 wires that lead from it I will connect to the charge controller which I will put right near the battery. Somewhere near the charge controller I will tap in with my leads from the portable panel. This is my plan.... For now.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

I am referring to retrofitting the connectors inline right before the charge controller. If you were cutting the wires to show and attach to a terminal block, you could just as easily put the connectors on.

I only got a solar ready kit from Escape, which mounts on the roof comma and is connected to buy mc4 connectors. The other end of the long #10 wires that lead from it I will connect to the charge controller which I will put right near the battery. Somewhere near the charge controller I will tap in with my leads from the portable panel. This is my plan.... For now.

Ok gotcha. These connectors can be added with the proper crimper and assembly tool. Much better idea than a combiner box for a small system.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Ok gotcha. These connectors can be added with the proper crimper and assembly tool. Much better idea than a combiner box for a small system.

I have done them with regular Klein crimpers and lineman pliers. An contemplating getting a MC4 crimper though.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

I have done them with regular Klein crimpers and lineman pliers. An contemplating getting a MC4 crimper though.

Thanks Jim. I originally thought these connectors were really "factory ends" and hard to furnish in the field. Always learning.

[stephen99]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

I have done them with regular Klein crimpers and lineman pliers. An contemplating getting a MC4 crimper though.

They're cheap enough and you get decent quality. I found this one on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Iwiss-Solar-C...ds=mc4+crimper

[freespirit]

just got back from looking at what's new for the new spring lineup of trailers at a big rv dealer and saw these portable solar panels..perhaps a bit overpriced depending on your perspective, but it all seemed to fit together well including the compact case...80 watt
https://www.zampsolar.com/rv-solar-k...table-rv-solar

also during this rv research trip finally found a different and creative kind of table designed by possibly a real engineer, and that might be easily integrated into this camper's design for an Escape 19 during the gutting/rebuild of the dinette area..

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by stephen99

They're cheap enough and you get decent quality. I found this one on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Iwiss-Solar-C...ds=mc4+crimper

I have a few bookmarked, along with connectors. Aliexpress has lots of them too. Many, like this one, look identical.

[CRJ]

My system is the standard circa 2015 Samlex equipment installed by Escape with the charge controller located in an upper cabinet on the street side and the rest of the electrical ie automatic transfer switch and inverter located with the batteries in the dinette bench on the passenger side.
I can see the advantage of the controller next to the batteries but at this point I'll live with the current locations. I'd like to add a portable panel and use the existing controller. Main issue is finding a sanitary way to connect and disconnect the portable using the MC 4 wye branch connectors without making more penetrations than necessary in the hull.

[padlin]

CRJ, Do you have the U dinette? if so do you have the optional outside access hatch on the passenger side under the dinette seat?

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by CRJ

I'd like to add a portable panel and use the existing controller. Main issue is finding a sanitary way to connect and disconnect the portable using the MC 4 wye branch connectors without making more penetrations than necessary in the hull.

Something like this? All you need to do is splice in behind the controller and add a solar port thru the shell in a convenient location.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by CRJ

My system is the standard circa 2015 Samlex equipment installed by Escape with the charge controller located in an upper cabinet on the street side and the rest of the electrical ie automatic transfer switch and inverter located with the batteries in the dinette bench on the passenger side.
I can see the advantage of the controller next to the batteries but at this point I'll live with the current locations. I'd like to add a portable panel and use the existing controller. Main issue is finding a sanitary way to connect and disconnect the portable using the MC 4 wye branch connectors without making more penetrations than necessary in the hull.

I will be adding a port on the rear of the trailer to bring my portable solar in. Probably near the power cord coming in. Fortunately, I will be able to place my controller by the batteries. You could always run a pair of #10 wires up to the controller from a port down low. I think the easiest way to do this would be to pull the fridge. I plan to pull mine to run remote wires up for the solar controller and inverter, as well as run the leads down from the roof.

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Something like this? All you need to do is splice in behind the controller and add a solar port thru the shell in a convenient location.

I will be using those splice connectors on the roof, but will be able to connect the cables from the portable right to the controller as there is plenty of room for both sets of cables under the lugs on it.

[CRJ]

Originally Posted by padlin

CRJ, Do you have the U dinette? if so do you have the optional outside access hatch on the passenger side under the dinette seat?

Unfortunately not. Have the standard dinette and no additional access door. Looks like I'm going to have to work on the other side as the controller is above the refrigerator.

[padlin]

I was thinking you could just cut into the cables and add mc4 connectors and T's where convenient, as opposed to adding the new cables directly to the controllers terminals. In your case I don't know where that convenient spot would be.