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Old 10-04-2016, 08:45 PM   #61
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Quote:
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I'm still waiting for pictures of the retrofit he did of his daughter's trailer...
I should go take more photos, I have been meaning to.
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Old 10-04-2016, 08:47 PM   #62
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You need to get a new phone without a broken lens first.
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Old 10-04-2016, 09:35 PM   #63
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You need to get a new phone without a broken lens first.
I did that much.
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Old 10-04-2016, 10:09 PM   #64
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[QUOTE=Jim Bennett;163038]Just my temp one.




That's what I meant. Nice business on the side. Best investment ever
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Old 10-04-2016, 10:46 PM   #65
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Yeah Alan, I'm just pulling the WFCO converter and board and replacing it with the "boondocker" from bestconverter. It's a direct replacement and doesn't require replacing the WFCO housing. Not quite the 15.2 volts recommended peak charging voltage recommended by Interstate, but much better than the stock WFCO and a true 4 stage charger with a desulfation cycle. It also has a much better DC filter and users have reported it ends the flickering light issues common with the WFCO - although I can't speak to whether or not it means less noise/interference with a ham radio. If it can make the power more stable and extend my battery life, I figure it's worth the trouble.

Boondocker Converters

Which model Boondocker is the replacement?
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Old 10-04-2016, 11:02 PM   #66
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Which model Boondocker is the replacement?
This one. Direct replacement for the converter and board in the WFCO 8955, which is the stock Escape model:

http://www.bestconverter.com/BD-1255...l#.V_Rs4xllDqA

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Old 10-09-2016, 07:10 PM   #67
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so many mods, so little time

Saving one less item to take care of . Cut the handle off of blocks so they are square . Attached with stainless hardware . Always on pads . Lighted on and off switch for our backup camera . Switch is on in picture . Inside cabinet to protect camera supply line I unburied from vinyl and glue . Bought from same manufacturer, Voyager. Camera never had a problem and the supply line was the same .
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Old 10-09-2016, 11:46 PM   #68
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Just an FYI for those who are contemplating the cooktop upgrade: You'll most likely have to cut down the top drawer that slides underneath the cooktop, since it's plumbed with a flare fitting that goes out the bottom, and because it sits a little deeper in the countertop than the stock cooktop. I made the sides of the top drawer shorter at the back, and then added a new piece of MDF about 2/3 back for the drawer back. Didn't have to change the mounting rails at all, and it clears the fitting. Only thing is, you do lose some depth on that one drawer.

Also, another FYI: If you don't have a flare tool, DO NOT buy one from Home Depot. They won't flare a thing, because they come with a coating on the clamp hole grooves and they won't grip the copper. Total junk, and a total waste of time. Ace or Lowes has a Brasscraft flare tool, which is a proper one. Don't ask me how I know.

I could go on a long rant about the total junk sold at Home Depot that passes for tools, but that's another story.
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Old 10-10-2016, 11:10 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
Just an FYI for those who are contemplating the cooktop upgrade: You'll most likely have to cut down the top drawer that slides underneath the cooktop, since it's plumbed with a flare fitting that goes out the bottom, and because it sits a little deeper in the countertop than the stock cooktop. I made the sides of the top drawer shorter at the back, and then added a new piece of MDF about 2/3 back for the drawer back. Didn't have to change the mounting rails at all, and it clears the fitting. Only thing is, you do lose some depth on that one drawer.
was going to ask about the depth when thinking about the mod...thanks for clearing that up...
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Old 10-10-2016, 07:59 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
Saving one less item to take care of . Cut the handle off of blocks so they are square . Attached with stainless hardware . Always on pads .
Hi Patandlinda,
I liked the yellow blocks. They looked nice. What yellow blocks did you used and where to purchase? Thanks
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