So Many Mods, So Little Time

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by ReagentGrade

Pat,

I'd like to see a more authoritative failure analysis before saying that ETI should have known to install a switch.

Rich

I think that's it's irrelevant if the always on caused the failure. Would you install things like lights that were always on? No, you put items that only used part time on a switch so they're turned on and off as needed.

Ron

[ReagentGrade]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

I think that's it's irrelevant if the always on caused the failure. Would you install things like lights that were always on? No, you put items that only used part time on a switch so they're turned on and off as needed.

Ron

"Would of saved over 350. for a new Voyager camera that was burn"t out from always being on if there was 12 volt power."


Ron,

I probably wouldn't install without a switch, but that's me and you. We have no idea what Pat asked ETI to do. He specifically blamed them for the failure. It might have failed because it was on 24/7 or not.

I'd be fine with Pat complaining about no switch. I'm not comfortable blaming ETI for the failure without more evidence.

Rich

[rjbny]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

It's marine grade stainless - and it's overbuilt. It's quite a bit heavier than the stock stove.

Did you happen to consider this Top Line Euro cooktop? It is also recessed and might be another option for those considering. The increased counter space is certainly a plus.

Norcold SHB16950Y | Fisheries Supply

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by rjbny

Did you happen to consider this Top Line Euro cooktop? It is also recessed and might be another option for those considering. The increased counter space is certainly a plus.

Norcold SHB16950Y | Fisheries Supply

Hadn't seen that one, but it looks similar to a SMEV cooktop. I note that the BTU output is lower than the Springfield, and it has 3 burners instead of two. We don't need the 3 burners. But, there is a SMEV cooktop with 2 burners as well, and it might suit some folks. I noted with interest in the installation diagram, that in order to have it flush mounted, you need to create a recessed edge in the countertop cutout for it to sit in, and the install is finished with a molding at the counter level. The Dickinson just drops in.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

...
I noted with interest in the installation diagram, that in order to have it flush mounted, you need to create a recessed edge in the countertop cutout for it to sit in, and the install is finished with a molding at the counter level. The Dickinson just drops in.

Interesting observation. It's nice to have installation alternatives; I would certainly prefer the flush mount.

Although the recess is required for flush mounting of the Norcold and not the Dickinson, the Dickinson presumably won't be quite as close to flush, as it will have the thickness of a structural flange on top of the counter surface... maybe that flange is so thin that it is no worse than the Norcold's flush mount seal (moulding). I wonder if the Norcold could be mounted without the moulding, using a suitable flexible caulk instead, making it truly flush?

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

..maybe that flange is so thin that it is no worse than the Norcold's flush mount seal (moulding).

Yep, it's thin, but still a decent thickness of stainless steel. For all intents and purposes, pretty flush.

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

I wonder if the Norcold could be mounted without the moulding, using a suitable flexible caulk instead, making it truly flush?

I don't see why not, but you'd have to make sure to use a sealant that doesn't shrink and create a dip. You'd also need to make sure the cut edge is super clean, since it would be exposed. For me the biggest sticking point would be the recessed edge required. Better have a good router. I don't think the stock countertop is thick enough to do that. It might be, but just barely.

[rjbny]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Interesting observation. It's nice to have installation alternatives; I would certainly prefer the flush mount.

Although the recess is required for flush mounting of the Norcold and not the Dickinson, the Dickinson presumably won't be quite as close to flush, as it will have the thickness of a structural flange on top of the counter surface... maybe that flange is so thin that it is no worse than the Norcold's flush mount seal (moulding). I wonder if the Norcold could be mounted without the moulding, using a suitable flexible caulk instead, making it truly flush?

The Norcold also appears to be a Thetford offering: TopLine Euro | Products | Thetford

The drawing seems to indicate that the stove would be 1/4" above the counter if you mounted it on the surface instead of using the recessed method. I suspect the Dickinson flange is less than 1/4".

How thick is the Escape countertop?

[rjbny]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

Hadn't seen that one, but it looks similar to a SMEV cooktop. I note that the BTU output is lower than the Springfield, and it has 3 burners instead of two. We don't need the 3 burners. But, there is a SMEV cooktop with 2 burners as well, and it might suit some folks. I noted with interest in the installation diagram, that in order to have it flush mounted, you need to create a recessed edge in the countertop cutout for it to sit in, and the install is finished with a molding at the counter level. The Dickinson just drops in.

There is a Top Line 162 that has two burners: Global | Thetford Marine

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by rjbny

How thick is the Escape countertop?

I didn't measure it when I removed the old cook top and installed the Dickinson, but it looks like 1/2 inch.

These things are a matter of taste of course, but if you're thinking of spending $500 or more for a new cook top, the Dickinson's quality is over the top, and it's slightly cheaper than the one you linked. Install would be easier too.

[rbryan4]

Well, we've now cooked on the Dickinson Marine cook top several times. All I can say is wow. The BTU output difference is pretty dramatic. Wife pan seared some steaks last night (too windy and nasty to cook outside) and they were great. I think this cook top has about twice the BTUs of the stock one, and it sure makes a difference when you cook on it.

On another note, the SAM-1 Range Hood Fan modification works very well too. All the cooking odors and smoke are instantly vented outside - and quietly.

Sometimes a mod works out well and sometimes not, but I couldn't be more pleased with these two.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

Well, we've now cooked on the Dickinson Marine cook top several times. All I can say is wow. The BTU output difference is pretty dramatic. Wife pan seared some steaks last night (too windy and nasty to cook outside) and they were great. I think this cook top has about twice the BTUs of the stock one, and it sure makes a difference when you cook on it.

On another note, the SAM-1 Range Hood Fan modification works very well too. All the cooking odors and smoke are instantly vented outside.

All good to hear, though I did sell my Dickinson cooktop. Kinda strange, since I was likely the first here to buy one a year ago, just never had the trailer to put it in. The range has the same burners though.

Still not set on a range hood, but the SAM-1 is high on my list, using a custom built hood.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

Well, we've now cooked on the Dickinson Marine cook top several times. All I can say is wow. The BTU output difference is pretty dramatic. Wife pan seared some steaks last night (too windy and nasty to cook outside) and they were great. I think this cook top has about twice the BTUs of the stock one, and it sure makes a difference when you cook on it.

You definitely have some more output. Dickinson lists their burners as 11,000 & 7,000 BTU whereas the stock Atwood DV20 is 7,200 and 5,200. I was researching the SMEV too and they are only 5,900 and 3,700. The only stove I see approaching the Dickinson is the Thetford Topline 162 that was mentioned above with burners at 9,800 and 6,300 BTU.

I may eventually pull the trigger on the Dickinson. I'm just hoping the issue with drawer clearance and the gas line adaption are as manageable on a 2010 as they are on your 2015.

[gbaglo]

What I learned from my BBQ research is that to achieve more BTUs, the manufacturer only has to enlarge the holes in the burner.

[cpaharley2008]

Yes and your propane usage will also increase, I may have to refill my tanks if I had one of those high output stoves.

[J Mac]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Yes and your propane usage will also increase, I may have to refill my tanks if I had one of those high output stoves.

Or...as per usual, order up a new rig!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Mesa]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

Wow, it's amazing what you can get done when you have an extra day off!

Did the install of the Dickinson Marine Cook top today. I must say, it adds a lot of wow factor to the trailer. I love that when not cooking, the entire counter is useable space.

Turns out I didn't have to run a new copper line. The original one terminated near the center and the new stove inlet is on the right rear on the bottom. So, I had too much pipe -- not too little. Just a cut of the pipe, a single bend, flare tool and done.
Love the piezo electronic ignition (no more matches) and the difference in heat output is impressive.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I just got one too for our 19 and will hopefully install it soon.

Did you have any problem with the top drawer interfering with the copper line or flare fitting?

Did you put sealant down between the counter and flange and if so, did you use any type of high temp sealant?

Thanks

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by Mesa

I just got one too for our 19 and will hopefully install it soon.

Did you have any problem with the top drawer interfering with the copper line or flare fitting?

Did you put sealant down between the counter and flange and if so, did you use any type of high temp sealant?

Thanks

I did have to notch the top drawer to clear the new fitting location, because the Dickinson LP inlet is on the bottom. Just used some MDF, a few Brads and some glue. The drawer is still full depth on the left side. No need to remove the drawer rails, just cut a little off the drawer back and right side. The MDF creates the notched side and back pieces. I thought I had posted a photo of it but I can't seem to find it.

I didn't seal or caulk the cook top at all. Just clamped it down with the supplied clamps. If it were a sink I probably would have caulked it, but I saw no need with a stove.

A tip for installation: try to locate the stove within a couple inches of the bulkhead on the right, and use the front edge of the cutout as your reference for all other cuts. The bulkhead and back wall are not square to the front. As long as the front is straight, and all your cuts are square, you're fine. Placing it a little further to the right allows for the extra width compared to the old cook top.

[Patandlinda]

Finished numerous mods to our "Classic 19 ". Added a 12 volt USB, Made a laundry drawer , Moved detector , changed out wood support to a aluminum under kitchen cabinet in preparation for more storage . Finished new cabinet under furnace , and added new support pole .

[Patandlinda]

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[Patandlinda]

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