2016 RAM 1500 3.6L towing 21ft - my experience - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 11-07-2016, 08:55 AM   #11
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Thanks for posting this. I am considering the Ram with Pentastar V6 as our next truck and it's good to hear that it is up to the task. I keep thinking about the diesel option with the extra torque, but keep coming back to the V6 as a better choice for our uses.
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Old 11-07-2016, 09:02 AM   #12
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After towing our Escape 21 on a 5 week trip from Vancouver to New Mexico using an Andersen WDH, I made a short trip to ETI without it and was surprised at the difference. Porpoising was definitely noticeable and the truck's front end higher. (2005 Tundra)
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Old 11-07-2016, 09:10 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Bobbito View Post
After towing our Escape 21 on a 5 week trip from Vancouver to New Mexico using an Andersen WDH, I made a short trip to ETI without it and was surprised at the difference. Porpoising was definitely noticeable and the truck's front end higher. (2005 Tundra)
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Thank you for your experience. You hit the nail on the head. Porpoising is how I should have described it when taking smooth dips at speed. My theory was the RAM's softer suspension but I think you are correct and it looks like I will try using weight distribution as a means to control that undesirable effect. First will take a few trips loaded but feel I will end up using a WDH as much as I rather not.
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Old 11-07-2016, 09:21 AM   #14
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I have the Andersen hitch and it does reduce the porpoising or galloping as Reace called it. I have taken to leaving it off for short trips but use it for a longer drive. Whatever works. Loren
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Old 11-07-2016, 09:48 AM   #15
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Ok, but I'm still not following. You shouldn't have to unplug the trailer from the tow when you're parked.
If not the trailer can drain your car battery, 3 batteries hooked up with different voltages will try to equalize all 3 to same level. I do not want a dead car battery in the morning.
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Old 11-07-2016, 11:01 AM   #16
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Thank you for the great report. I have considered the Ram V6 for our next tug for our 19'. Our Jeep GC with the same V6 tows the 19' with no problem however because we would like to take 2 bikes on the back and 2 sea kayaks on the roof along, We may end up overloading the Jeep.
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Old 11-07-2016, 05:45 PM   #17
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Like Santiago, I was impressed with the fine towing manners of my 21 when I towed it home from Chilliwack. I towed it about 6000 miles without a wd hitch. But I decided to try a wd hitch after getting caught in some nasty crosswinds last spring and have now towed about 2000 miles with the Andersen and like it a lot.
My tow vehicle is a 2009 Ram 1500 with the 4.7 V8. When I trade it in I will get the 5.7 with 3.92 axle ratio. The 5.7 won't have to work as hard going up steep mountain grades and, maybe even more importantly, will provide more engine braking coming down steep grades.
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Old 11-07-2016, 06:40 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
BTW, the Ram 7 pin plug is "live" all the time so you need to unplug when stopping...
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
When I said live, I mean there is 12v going to the trailer while the ignition is off, lights are on a separate circuit.
If this is how the factory wires the truck, it is shockingly poorly designed.
Is this factory, or was it incompetently done by an aftermarket shop?
A properly designed and installed trailer battery charge circuit is controlled by a relay (or "solenoid") which turns it off when the tow vehicle's charging system is not active. I did that on my homebrew installation, as most people do. Diode-based battery isolators can also be used, but they interfere with proper battery charging.

I had a look at the 2015 Ram 1500 manual, and while it provides pin-out diagrams for 4-pin and 7-pin connections, it provides no information about when the battery circuit is live. I would wonder if it is a "retained power" function, meaning it stays live after the engine is shut off, but only for a programmed period of time, dependent of factors such as when the last door is closed or the vehicle is locked. Jim, are you sure it stays on indefinitely?
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Old 11-07-2016, 06:58 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
If this is how the factory wires the truck, it is shockingly poorly designed.
Is this factory, or was it incompetently done by an aftermarket shop?
A properly designed and installed trailer battery charge circuit is controlled by a relay (or "solenoid") which turns it off when the tow vehicle's charging system is not active. I did that on my homebrew installation, as most people do. Diode-based battery isolators can also be used, but they interfere with proper battery charging.

I had a look at the 2015 Ram 1500 manual, and while it provides pin-out diagrams for 4-pin and 7-pin connections, it provides no information about when the battery circuit is live. I would wonder if it is a "retained power" function, meaning it stays live after the engine is shut off, but only for a programmed period of time, dependent of factors such as when the last door is closed or the vehicle is locked. Jim, are you sure it stays on indefinitely?
Got a schematic at the Ram dealership for the 2015 factory trailer wiring and confirmed 7 pin connector wired to 12v direct with just a fuse and NO relay to switch it off. Going to install an inline relay to switch it when truck is off. Checked a friends Silverado and it was the same..live when off and no relay!
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Old 11-07-2016, 07:11 PM   #20
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This really surprises me. My F150 can sit for weeks connected to the trailer with zero effect on the batteries, because there's no power to the trailer with the tow vehicle shut off. I assumed that most manufacturers 7 pin plugs were set up the same way.

I mean, how much would it cost them to install a cheap relay inline?
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