Bearing and seals

patjul · 05-06-2011, 12:12 PM

Hi all..

I ask this one to Reace, but maybe they are very busy right now. Anybody know what is the parts number of the bearing inner and outter ( i think there two sizes ) and also seal number for the 17' 2010. I can't remember but i think the axle is a Dexter 3500 lbs?

Thanks a lot

Pat

barry · 05-06-2011, 02:37 PM

The info is on this page on the forum, http://escapeforum.org/index.php?topic=1065.0 reply #13 has the info.

Barry

patjul · 05-06-2011, 07:52 PM

Ho..Reace give me the answer....Helpful information to share....

inner bearing #L44649
outer bearing #L68149
Wheel Seal # 408004-5

Harold Kroeker · 05-06-2011, 11:21 PM

Quote:

inner bearing #L44649
outer bearing #L68149

I think you got the inner and outer reversed. I have attached the Bearing Replacement & Cross Reference Chart from the Dexter web site.

Wheel bearings are single row taper roller bearings and have 2 parts: the cone (which is the part with the cage and rollers that is cone shaped that you stuff with grease) and the cup (which is the surface that the rollers ride on). If the rollers are shot, the cup probably is too and they should be replaced as a set. Some people just replace the cones because that part is easy and then are surprised when they don't last very long. It is a bit more work to also drive the old cups out of the hub and then press the new ones in, but is the proper way to do the job.

Geo · 05-07-2011, 10:46 AM

Thanks for the Chart.
It will come in Handy
Geo

barry · 05-07-2011, 02:32 PM

In anticipation of the rain stopping at some point this month I went down to the local Lordco Parts and picked up a couple of grease seals so that if the rain DOES stop I can repack my bearings. The computer there spat out the # 408004-5 that Escape gave to Patjul, it also didn't like the numbers of 58846 and 158800 that Tammy had mentioned on post #13 on this thread http://escapeforum.org/index.php?topic=1065.0 It seems that each manufacture has their own numbers and no cross references to others.

The sales clerk finally looked up the axle ( Dexter 3500 lb Torflex 10x 2 1/4 hub) which listed the bearings of L68149 and L44649 which Escape gave to Patjul and the clerk gave me the seals based on that listing. Manufacture SKF #17146. ....... hopefully when I have everything apart the seals fit!!

Barry

barry · 05-09-2011, 07:40 PM

I did my bearings today and the seals that I bought were wrong. So a quick trip down to Lordco and got them replaced with the right ones; Raybestos #761-5604 ....... they fit!

Barry

patjul · 05-09-2011, 08:03 PM

Thanks a lot for the reference chart....good help. Yes the seal number is not very helpful. The mesure of the seal itself is suposed to be Double lip seal 1.72" ID- 2.565" OD

Is someone could confirm that

Roger C H · 05-10-2011, 03:14 PM

Some bearings have a separate inner race, called a cone. So you have three parts, the cup (outer race), the cage, the rollers and retainer, and the cone, the inner race.
Sometimes the inner race and cage come as one assembly. If you have a separate cone, be sure to replace that also.

gabe · 05-29-2011, 02:39 PM

I have just been reading the posts on bearings and seals, and it got me wondering. I have done around 15,000 kilometers with my 17B and am wondering at what point is it recommended to repack the bearings? I mean, on a car, they don't repack the bearings that often. Maybe when they are doing the brakes. Would a trailer axle be that different? What are the recommended mileage / times for doing it?

Gabe

escape artist · 05-29-2011, 03:17 PM

Hi: gabe...Check in your owners manual. There's a section for servicing and I think it's recommended annually. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

gabe · 05-29-2011, 03:23 PM

Thanks, Alf. Of course, there is a law of the universe which states that when everything else fails, ..............read the instructions !!!
gabe

hippo · 05-29-2011, 09:32 PM

Gabe,
Repack your wheel bearings yearly, also lube your waste valve seals. Check the battery water and clean the terminals. Check the DOT numbers on your tires and if they are 6 years or older replace them. Older tires have blown apart their are many posts about tires on Fiberglass RV Forum to read. If the tire says 50# Max run 42 to 45 pounds of air pressure.
Hippo

gabe · 05-29-2011, 09:56 PM

Thank you Hippo for your advice. Two heads (or more) are always better than one head when it comes to safety issues. I'm wondering what you would use to grease / lubricate the valves you mention.
Thanks.
gabe

gabe · 05-29-2011, 09:59 PM

Oh! Just one more thing. If the tires are rated for 50lbs maximum, why run them at a lower pressure. Forgive my physics (which is more than 40 years out of date!!!) but wouldn't the maximum rating allow for less rolling resistance and thus result in better gas mileage? Or am I missing something important here from a safety point of view?
Gabe

escape artist · 05-29-2011, 10:44 PM

Hi: gabe...On the tire issue cold pressure is rated max. at 50#s. That should allow room for expansion at warm hwy. spd., but I run 'em at 47 max. cold. So far ours are dated (1407) 14th. week of '07 and no signs of fatigue. I did have the valve stems replaced as they were the problem in most tire failures. All 3 of mine were cracked even the unused spare!!!
Another area for lube that most forget is the drain valve on the fresh water tank. You'll think of it when it's so stiff you break it off!!! A little mineral oil on a QTip helps keep it free and easy!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

gabe · 05-29-2011, 11:41 PM

Thanks very much, Alf.
Engineers calculate the times, stresses, frequency etc for maintenance of systems on aircraft, cars, tires, machines etc. It has been my experience that if I stick to the schedules mandated by the manufacturers, then problems are kept to a minimum.
I have run my Escape tires at maximum allowed pressure, and so far everything looks good.

I have noticed, however, that the centre tread on my trailer tires is showing more wear than the outer treads. This is usually an indication that over-inflation is happening. But on the other hand, most tire failures are cause by under-inflation.........even minor under-inflation!!

So, am I erring on the side of safety? It's a good question.

Gabe

escape artist · 05-30-2011, 06:44 AM

Hi: gabe... "To err is human...to forgive... That's an entirely separate question"

I usually play it safe too!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

JeffZ · 05-30-2011, 10:51 AM

I purchased an after market tire monitoring system for our RV. It's pretty cool, it gives you both tire pressure & temp.. after the blowout we got on the AS, we thought it best to get it for our upcoming Alaska trip.. I'll do a quick review on it..

escape artist · 06-10-2011, 07:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gabe

Thanks very much, Alf.
Engineers calculate the times, stresses, frequency etc for maintenance of systems on aircraft, cars, tires, machines etc. It has been my experience that if I stick to the schedules mandated by the manufacturers, then problems are kept to a minimum.
I have run my Escape tires at maximum allowed pressure, and so far everything looks good.

I have noticed, however, that the centre tread on my trailer tires is showing more wear than the outer treads. This is usually an indication that over-inflation is happening. But on the other hand, most tire failures are cause by under-inflation.........even minor under-inflation!!

So, am I erring on the side of safety? It's a good question.

Gabe

Hi: Gabe...I just had my running gear serviced at ElginRV. Bearings re packed, new seals, brakes and tires adjusted(50psi) $44. inc Tx. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

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