Bit for cranking up the stabilizers??? - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community
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Old 03-24-2017, 08:50 PM   #21
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We used to call the push drills a Yankee drill. I think this was a model for Stanley or
Someone like that. Remember when your Mom would mix up a cake and you and the siblings would call out for the right to "lick the Beaters?" The big winner got to lick the bowl. Ahhhh the 50's.
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Old 03-24-2017, 08:58 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
Trailer comes with a crank for the stabilizers.
Yep. And I talked Escape out of an extra, then cut off the handle, and used the remainder as a long drill bit/socket that fit perfectly.

"Easy-peasy"

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Old 03-24-2017, 10:14 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by The Quilting Lady View Post
Is there a bit for a hand drill that allows you to crank up the stablizers? If so what size or what do you call it?

N
Nancy, be real careful using a regular electric drill - if it stops suddenly due to binding or whatever, it will give your wrist a good snap. Impact drills work better but they can be sort of loud and annoying to your neighbors - maybe not great to use for a 5 am departure.
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Old 03-24-2017, 10:35 PM   #24
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Hole shooter

Quote:
Originally Posted by H46Driver View Post
Nancy, be real careful using a regular electric drill - if it stops suddenly due to binding or whatever, it will give your wrist a good snap. Impact drills work better but they can be sort of loud and annoying to your neighbors - maybe not great to use for a 5 am departure.

Nancy I second that for sure.My son loaned my neighbor my new 1/2 inch Milwaukee drill a few years ago. It hung up when he was on his back with his arm fully extended with a 3/8 bit in it. Went to the emergency room with significant rotor cuff damage according to his wife who brought the dril back. Probably lucky he didn't sue me.
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Old 03-24-2017, 11:09 PM   #25
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I like electric tools and gadgets as much as the next person, but it really doesn't take all that many turns or all that much effort at hand-crank the four stabalizers down or back up. And doing it by hand gives you a better feel for when the worm gears or pivot joints might benefit from a little lubrication or other maintenance. But then, we also still cut and split our own firewood for our two wood-burning stoves when it would be much easier to just buy it. To each their own....
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Old 03-25-2017, 12:14 AM   #26
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If you don't own a portable power hand drill ( and I do ) ( covering all the bases ) you don't have to replace the batteries or buy a whole new drill after a few years ( because they don't sell new batteries for less than a whole new drill ).
This is why I'm reluctant to buy any new toy.
That, and having to read yet another manual.
When a labour-saving device makes more work for you, it's time to reevaluate.
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Old 03-25-2017, 12:52 AM   #27
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The drill or driver twisting when the jack jams is a problem, but there's a fix for that. Typical cordless drill/drivers routinely have an adjustable clutch which limits the torque applied. Set it only as high as required to run the jacks without slipping and if something jams it will just slip instead of hurting the user. This is only found on tools which are expected to be used to drive screws; it is not a normal feature of a drill.

In a drill-driver, it is also desirable to have a side handle - usually it screws into the side of the drill housing; this allows the user to handle much more torque without twisting of the wrist. Another good feature is two speed ranges, so the lower speed (which should provide more torque than the high speed range) can be used to run the jacks.

I have a cheap house-brand drill-driver, and it has all of these features.
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Old 03-25-2017, 08:45 AM   #28
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On a recent trip (on the "wet" coast) we set up three of the first four days in the rain and the electric drill method (with a 3/4 inch socket) was by far the quickest method to get out of the rain.
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Old 03-25-2017, 11:17 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
If you don't own a portable power hand drill ( and I do ) ( covering all the bases ) you don't have to replace the batteries or buy a whole new drill after a few years ( because they don't sell new batteries for less than a whole new drill ).
I don't know if they do it any more with these different new batteries, but with an older drill I had I would take the battery to a place called Batteries Plus, There they would open the case and put in a new battery all for about $35.00. Loren
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Old 03-25-2017, 03:41 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Loren & Cathy View Post
... I don't know if they do it any more with these different new batteries, but with an older drill I had I would take the battery to a place called Batteries Plus, There they would open the case and put in a new battery all for about $35.00. Loren
Battery Source offers that service, too, if they can identify the correct replacement battery once they get in to it. Our local guys seem to enjoy the challenge of busting into some of the more tightly sealed cases and then sealing them back closed as best they can so the casual observer might not know the case has been opened.
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Old 03-25-2017, 06:22 PM   #31
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I have and carry in the truck a drill/driver and appropriate socket, but so far I've found it's quicker and easier just to hand crank the stabilizers. Of course, that may be because Jeanne usually does that part while I'm installing the wheel lock.
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