Does the factory spray-on insulation really prevent freezing water lines? - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 01-16-2019, 10:39 AM   #1
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Does the factory spray-on insulation really prevent freezing water lines?

I live at 4,800 feet and frequently camp at 7,000+ feet. There is the potential for freezing overnight temps even in the summer. Does the spray-on factory insulation prevent water lines from freezing in such conditions?
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Old 01-16-2019, 11:19 AM   #2
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I think that’s going to fall into the category of “it depends”. Does good insulation prevent freezing temperatures in a house? No, because if the house is unheated, it will eventually end up as cold inside as it is outside. But insulation will slow that heat loss down. So whether you hit freezing inside temps depends on how warm it is inside, ambient; how much heat you’re adding to that (furnace, or in the case of trailer tanks, heat pads); how cold it is outside; and what the rate of heat loss is, as determined by how much insulation you have. Change any of these factors and the equation shifts. So, it depends.
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Old 01-16-2019, 11:21 AM   #3
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Let's try to answer your question, this way, the foam will certainly not hurt keeping your lines freeze free, will it prevent it, all depends. Which Escape and whether you have your furnace going and whether you have other insulating options installed also will determine it's effectiveness.
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Old 01-16-2019, 11:25 AM   #4
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When we're camping and nighttime temps are predicted to be below zero, we always set the heater so the inside temps are well above freezing. We also make the extra effort to lift the bench seat to expose our water pump to make sure that air is also above freezing. Of course, also disconnect the hose and drain the water from the hose. We've had experiences where water did freeze in the lines and at the faucet when not taking these precautions. The previous commenter is correct - it depends. But if managed carefully, you shouldn't have any problems.
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Old 01-16-2019, 11:34 AM   #5
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Is it worth the $800CDN?
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Old 01-16-2019, 11:39 AM   #6
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I have camped quite a few nights near 20 degrees F and keep the furnace running for an inside temperature of at least 60-65 and have had no problems with pipes freezing with the extra spray foam insulation. I also have the outdoor shower. I would be very nervous without the insulation. For me it is worth it.
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Old 01-16-2019, 11:48 AM   #7
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Does the factory spray-on insulation really prevent freezing water lines?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik65 View Post
Is it worth the $800CDN?

Uhm...It depends. It is for me. No idea if it would be for you.
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Old 01-16-2019, 12:11 PM   #8
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It depends is a good answer.

With our old 5.0 with no extra insulation I once dewinterized in Kansas in January preparing to leave next day on our trip to TX to find morning temperature was 20F. I was concerned about freezing (no heat in trailer we were sleeping inside our daughter's house) especially at the toilet where the line goes through the outside compartment front passenger side. No water was moving and found only the line from the exposed fresh water tank up through the floor frozen. It quickly thawed out with much warmer day temperatures and no damage done.

Now I have the foam and have not experienced freezing temperatures with it yet however I'm hoping that when we return from a trip south in early April when we can still get freezing nights here that I won't have to winterize again. Plan to keep heater going inside and opening bench by water heater and cupboard doors where water runs, and shutting off line going to the toilet.
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Old 01-16-2019, 12:23 PM   #9
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Another couple options. Add your own rigid foam, its doable


Take a trip back to BC later and get it retrofitted.
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Old 01-16-2019, 03:02 PM   #10
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I'd go ahead and pay for it. It also makes the interior much quieter, protects the underbelly, and makes the floor feel sturdier. You can search and find lots of other discussions on the foam. We like it. Easier to have ETI do it.
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Old 01-16-2019, 03:56 PM   #11
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We have the spray foam option and am glad for protection of bottom of trailer and added insulation .
Needed to do a little plumbing valve work on grey tank valve .Very easy to clear up to work on valve ( needed to change to new one ) . Just used a plastic paint scrapper to not cause any damage to trailer. If you don't go this route , would definetly add foam block insulation like some have done on forum . Ron in BC added foam .Pat
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Old 01-16-2019, 03:56 PM   #12
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What about finding and correcting leaks down the road?
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Old 01-16-2019, 04:04 PM   #13
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Also, approx. how much weight does the foam add to the trailer?
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Old 01-16-2019, 04:06 PM   #14
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Leaks in what? The underside of the trailer is solid fiberglass, has drain holes around the perimeter (beyond the foam) for any water to come out from interior leaks.
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Old 01-16-2019, 04:25 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Leaks in what? The underside of the trailer is solid fiberglass, has drain holes around the perimeter (beyond the foam) for any water to come out from interior leaks.
And in the car of a exterior leak , like our broken grey valve reason for replacement , it dripped from the foam very easy to see. Pat
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Old 01-16-2019, 04:28 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Also, approx. how much weight does the foam add to the trailer?
Do not know the answer, I would think Escape could answer your question . From what I needed to remove it was very light. Pat
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Old 01-16-2019, 04:36 PM   #17
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Google says spray foam insulation weighs 0.4 and 0.6 pounds/cubic foot when fully cured. Guessing it's 2 or 3" thick we'd get 4 or 5 square ' from a cubic, that's about the width of the sprayed portion of the trailer. Multiply by length then by 0.5 lbs. Sprayed length of my 5.0TA would be about 16', so 8 lbs., more or less.
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Old 01-16-2019, 06:04 PM   #18
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For some reason 70 lbs sticks in my head from way back in 2012 when it was started....but my memory does fail me sometimes.
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Old 01-16-2019, 06:51 PM   #19
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One thing about the design of the Escape trailers is that all the supply lines are within the shell of the trailer. None are run underneath like some builders. So as others have mentioned, if the interior access doors are open overnight when the temps drop several degrees below freezing, it is pretty easy to keep the trailer warm enough to keep the lines clear.

I have an oscillating ceramic heater that I used when hooked to shore power for that purpose. It has a freeze prevention feature that keeps everything above 45 degrees F. I was working on my sister's new home Nov. and Dec. of 2017. I left my trailer parked at the job site and commuted home on the weekends. I would disconnect the water supply hose, drain it and bring it inside. Then open the doors to the storage spaces that had water lines in them and leave that heater in Freeze prevent mode. Never had an issue.

This is on a 2013 E19' without the floor foam. It does have the thermo package for the walls and windows. That being said, I have opted for the under floor foam on the new 5.0 TA I have on order. I like how much warmer the floor feels in the trailers I have visited that have it. Currently $800CAN = $603 US. Well worth it in my opinion.
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Old 01-16-2019, 07:07 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arniesea View Post
One thing about the design of the Escape trailers is that all the supply lines are within the shell of the trailer. None are run underneath like some builders.
Except for the 21'.
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