Escape 21 options?

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Greg A

Pat, took a look at it last night and seems really good. If I were modding a detachable now I would go the Smart plug for sure. It didn't seem that much more expensive than the Furion kit when I looked on Amazon.

Morning Greg . You know me love to find more storage in these trailers . Not happy with the hole for cord in trailer . The fingers are starting to break off etc. Used to having a nice enclosed waterproof box for cord . Getting worried a opening for critters to get in trailer . Too many improvements to not like about the Smartplug . Pat

[float5]

Several people have said that they could not get the detachable cord to connect properly. Some could not get electric. At least some of them were able to fix this or maybe all.

[float5]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Morning Greg . You know me love to find more storage in these trailers . Not happy with the hole for cord in trailer . The fingers are starting to break off etc. Used to having a nice enclosed waterproof box for cord . Getting worried a opening for critters to get in trailer . Too many improvements to not like about the Smartplug . Pat

Pat, we use rope caulk, the kind that might go on interior house windows each winter and thrown away in spring. Very pliable. We simply put a bunch of it around the cord at the entry. Works pretty well.

[Greg A]

Originally Posted by float5

Several people have said that they could not get the detachable cord to connect properly. Some could not get electric. At least some of them were able to fix this or maybe all.

Usually when you do the mod they give you a threaded burl or a locking burl to put on the power cord. For some reason ETI puts the more difficult threaded one on and it created some issues for one or two people as it's more finicky. If you switch it over to the locking type it makes it very simple to connect, but both are very secure and most folks won't have issues with either one.

[steve dunham]

I would take a serious look at the options that cannot be or would be difficult to add later ( Interior insulation for example )
. If you are the least bit mechanically inclined many of the options can be added later when you are positive that they are a necessity.
I am more of a form following function individual so decorating and color schemes are far down my list of considerations if I considered them at all.

[Greg A]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

I am more of a form following function individual so decorating and color schemes are far down my list of considerations if I considered them at all.

Good points, but it goes back to how you are going to use it. If one is only going to use it for camping, I'd agree totally with you, but when it becomes one's home for extended periods then the decorating and color schemes move way up the list.

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by Greg A

Good points, but it goes back to how you are going to use it. You must not be considering going full or full/pt with your eventual trailer. If one is only going to use it for camping, I'd agree totally with you, but when it becomes one's home for extended periods then the decorating and color schemes move way up the list.

You are correct , we have no desire / plans to go full time or even part time. If we were going to full time , then decorating would probably become a concern for my wife and she would decide what was needed.
Speaking only for "Myself" , color or decorating would never make it even to the bottom of my list.
Thank God I am not the King cause the world would be a dull and ugly place.

[War Eagle]

Originally Posted by float5

Several people have said that they could not get the detachable cord to connect properly. Some could not get electric. At least some of them were able to fix this or maybe all.

I think the problem is that the Conntek power inlet (as ETI installed standard on our 2017 21') is designed to work as either thread on, or push on and twist. That dual-design results in extra thread ends that must match up when trying to tread on. If you're patient, and make an effort to not cross-thread things, it works fine. Watch out for metal burs from stripped screw heads. I had to file several of those off to keep from scraping skin off my knuckles while connecting. For at-home shore power, we got the MightyCord model A10-1530DAVP adaptor with the 15A male to 30A female and a heavy duty 15A extension cord. Oh, and as you can see in one of the photos, we also opted for the extra driver-side rear hatch which gives us direct access from the outside into the internal electrical center and a convenient place to store wheel chocks, power cords, stabilizer pads, etc.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by float5

Pat, we use rope caulk, the kind that might go on interior house windows each winter and thrown away in spring. Very pliable. We simply put a bunch of it around the cord at the entry. Works pretty well.

Hey Cathy if I go for the high end connection that is great looking besides , I can get over not getting my O..... Pat

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Greg A

Usually when you do the mod they give you a threaded burl or a locking burl to put on the power cord. For some reason ETI puts the more difficult threaded one on and it created some issues for one or two people as it's more finicky. If you switch it over to the locking type it makes it very simple to connect, but both are very secure and most folks won't have issues with either one.

I think another thing to think about is when we age the fingers aren't working as great as they used too. There is no twisting anything on the Smartplug . Plug it in ,the side Springs hold it in , then pull down the door and that is a extra hold down . It security plugs in with no movement to begin with . What could be easier . Pat

[float5]

Originally Posted by War Eagle

I think the problem is that the Conntek power inlet (as ETI installed standard on our 2017 21') is designed to work as either thread on, or push on and twist. That dual-design results in extra thread ends that must match up when trying to tread on. If you're patient, and make an effort to not cross-thread things, it works fine. Watch out for metal burs from stripped screw heads. I had to file several of those off to keep from scraping skin off my knuckles while connecting. For at-home shore power, we got the MightyCord model A10-1530DAVP adaptor with the 15A male to 30A female and a heavy duty 15A extension cord. Oh, and as you can see in one of the photos, we also opted for the extra driver-side rear hatch which gives us direct access from the outside into the internal electrical center and a convenient place to store wheel chocks, power cords, stabilizer pads, etc.

Thanks for that. Think we could one of those.

[War Eagle]

Originally Posted by float5

Thanks for that. Think we could one of those.

Not sure if you were talking about the power cord adaptor or the rear hatch, but here are a couple more shots of the rear hatch. Access to rear of electrical system on the right, water pump on the left.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by richardr

There are lots and lots that are not on the build sheet. For example we are getting an additional 4 pin plug next to the receiver at the rear of the trailer to plug in additional tail lights attached to our bicycle rack.

Rick: Not sure how many order this option. Just a heads up it might be worth checking that ETI is not just matching the trailer harness colors off the 7-pin with the 4-pin colors like they did on our 2010. See below post for an explanation of why functions get crossed and how it needs to be wired to operate correctly. Not hard to change if you have access to the wiring but why not ensure they do it correct from the factory, right?

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...tml#post145608

On pick up if you don't have your bike rack mounted you could test it once you are hitched up using a simple tester like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Unified-Marine...MAN44WKN3PV726

[War Eagle]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

... I suppose even the standard twist lock detachable hardware could be a challenge to find as well. ...

Not so much. We got the detachable power cord option, and a standard 30A extension cord available at places like Lowe's or Home Depot will connect to the Conntek inlet and work fine in a pinch (photo is not the best angle, but you get the idea). It just wouldn't have the threaded collar to secure it in place. That said, like others, I feel the SmartPlug system, while a clever idea, restricts you to their proprietary components that can add up to become quite expensive in total (thermal protection adds even more) and difficult to find replacement parts while on the road. Just my two cents worth (or 2.67 cents Canadian).

[7th Heaven]

2 - Way Hot Water Tank
Don't have it, twin tanks have alwasy been more then enough for weekend and multi week trips for our family of 5

Removable Power Cord
Have it, could not imagin being force to use under bench seat for cable storage. Cable gets tossed in the Storage Box up front

Air Conditioner with Digital Thermostat
Have AC, Youa re eather Hot or your are Cold .. i don't need to adjust to the degree.

TV/Cable Ready with 120V Outlet
Have it, have never used the cable but i have found that i never have enough outles where i want them

Power Tongue Jack
Don't have it, When the time comes that turnign the crank becomes a issue I will retrofit

Storage Box (Front of Trailer)
Have it, LOVE IT!!!

Convert Bench Seat to U Shaped Dinette
Have it, DID I mention family of 5 ... LOVE IT

E2 - Integrated Sway Control and Weight Distribution Hitch
Can't say anthing about the E2 ... but in General, I would not Tow w/out anti-sway ... IF just for the peace of mind for nothign else. We ahve the Anderson and have have had good results and there support of their product has been top notch.

Wall Mount Extendable TV Arm (For 15" - 22" TVs)
Don't have it, we Don't use TV .. if anything I will get atound to install a Wi-Fi booster for streaming vs antenna for TV as 99% of our Datalite channels are also available via the internet

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by War Eagle

Not so much. We got the detachable power cord option, and a standard 30A extension cord available at places like Lowe's or Home Depot will connect to the Conntek inlet and work fine in a pinch (photo is not the best angle, but you get the idea). It just wouldn't have the threaded collar to secure it in place.

Not so sure. A standard 30A extension will have the flat blade type configuration (NEMA TT-30) which would accept the female end on the trailer cord, but not the twist lock configuration on the Conntek inlet (or aftermarket Marinco or Furrion) on the trailer which is a NEMA L5-30. Marine shops will have shore power cords but they will have twist lock NEMA L5-30 on both ends. I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure a cord with a twist lock female end and the flat blade male end is unique to travel trailers that have adapted a twist lock on one end for convenience to be removable but still need to have the flat blade male end to work with standard 30A receptacles on campground power pedestals. Thankfully cord/connection problems are rare.

Example of extension that won't work when trying to connect direct to the trailer fitting:
http://www.lowes.com/pd/Camco-Manufa...n-Cord/3455554

True shore power cord - twist lock on both ends that will work at the trailer end but not the pedestal end:
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/marinc...ds--P012998472

Thankfully cord/connection problems are rare. My bet is anyone worried about this is carrying a spare cord they have already modified and they know works.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by War Eagle

We got the detachable power cord option, and a standard 30A extension cord available at places like Lowe's or Home Depot will connect to the Conntek inlet and work fine in a pinch (photo is not the best angle, but you get the idea). It just wouldn't have the threaded collar to secure it in place.

True, the connector is internally the same. The collar is really for weather protection, not to secure the twist-lock connector.

Originally Posted by rubicon327

A standard 30A extension will have the flat blade type configuration (NEMA TT-30) which would accept the female end on the trailer cord, but not the twist lock configuration on the Conntek inlet (or aftermarket Marinco or Furrion) on the trailer which is a NEMA L5-30. Marine shops will have shore power cords but they will have twist lock NEMA L5-30 on both ends.

Yes, the whole cord set is an RV-only item. In a pinch if the L5-30 connector fails, the hardware store fix would be just the connector, installed on the trailer's existing cord.

The truly prepared user of the SmartPlug system would carry a spare connector (or connector / inlet set) to be as ready for failure as anyone; I wouldn't be that prepared, personally. If really stuck somewhere on a trip, one could swap out the SmartPlug inlet and connector for L5-30 bits with the cover (your favourite brand and cover style) from an RV parts store; I can see doing that in the unlikely event of a failure.

[richardr]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Rick: Not sure how many order this option. Just a heads up it might be worth checking that ETI is not just matching the trailer harness colors off the 7-pin with the 4-pin colors like they did on our 2010. See below post for an explanation of why functions get crossed and how it needs to be wired to operate correctly. Not hard to change if you have access to the wiring but why not ensure they do it correct from the factory, right?

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...tml#post145608

On pick up if you don't have your bike rack mounted you could test it once you are hitched up using a simple tester like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Unified-Marine...MAN44WKN3PV726

Thanks for the heads up. I have the tester on my list of things to get before picking up the trailer.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Yes, the whole cord set is an RV-only item. In a pinch if the L5-30 connector fails, the hardware store fix would be just the connector, installed on the trailer's existing cord.

Yup, I got it. I guess I was thrown off by War Eagle's mention of a "standard 30A extension cord". This isn't as simple as going to the store, buying a cord and plugging in. The owner should understand that they will need to rewire the trailer end of their cord with something like this:
www.lowes.com/pd/Legrand-30-Amp-125-Volt-Black-3-Wire-Grounding-Connector/1000001286

I suppose if something happened on the male trailer connector that something like this could be wired on with a bit of work, but it wouldn't be weatherproof on its own:
www.lowes.com/pd/Pass-Seymour-Legrand-30-Amp-125-Volt-Black-3-Wire-Grounding-Plug/3235930

Doesn't look available at Lowe's but Home Depot has the NEMA TT-30 that you need at the pedestal end. Of course RV places should have this too.
Eaton 30 Amp Heavy-Duty Grade Angled Power Plug with 3-Wire Grounding, Black-83-BOX - The Home Depot

[War Eagle]

Sorry if my previous post was incomplete and caused confusion. My main point was to have a back-up plan and have items needed for that plan readily accessible if needed. A Boy Scout would more simply say, "Be Prepared." I just searched and found that Camping World carries SmartPlug products (although I don't recall seeing them on the shelf in either of our two nearby CW stores). So perhaps the SmartPlug brand is more main stream and more widely and readily available than I initially thought. To each their own, but always "Be Prepared."