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Old 08-02-2015, 02:47 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Donna, does the tonneau block your view of the hitch, causing the alignment challenge?
No, it's because I have an extended cab. Those with a four-door model truck... it would be worse. If that's possible. With a standard cab truck, just turn and look out the rear window into the bed. Not possible with other model trucks.
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Old 08-02-2015, 03:18 PM   #42
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Choices

I've been hooking a 5th wheel to my Chev fullsize extend-cab PU for 18 years. First a 21' OK 5th wheel and now the 5.0TA.
I can back up the truck up to the pin, by turning and looking at it. On my own.
Then get out, put in the slide arm safety pin, brake-away line, and electrical connection.
Very easy to do.

I have also bumper-pulled over the years and find it a little more work (I don't have a back-up camera).

I find the electric jacks the greatest simple thing to speeding up the whole process, and much, much easier on my back and arms.

For me the choice of the 5.0TA was about the real bed, and the slightly shorter length when towing. We have ferries fares based on overall length, so this is a cost to consider.
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Old 08-02-2015, 03:29 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by sleepy View Post
I've been hooking a 5th wheel to my Chev fullsize extend-cab PU for 18 years. First a 21' OK 5th wheel and now the 5.0TA.
I can back up the truck up to the pin, by turning and looking at it. On my own.
Then get out, put in the slide arm safety pin, brake-away line, and electrical connection.
Very easy to do.
Now I get it. I didn't even take into consideration how tall someone is. I'm only 5'7" (on a good day), when I turn and look... I can see the top of the tailgate
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Old 08-02-2015, 04:26 PM   #44
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I've had both and find the FW easier then the bumper pull, but then I had a weight distribution hitch to mess with. No weight dist hitch or the light weight Anderson, might negate the preference. Either way if alone I have to get out once or twice, with the bumper pull for ball alignment, for the FW to verify height. I added alignment marks on the tonneau cover and the pin box so I can back in 1st try. I also have the 2" or less clearance of a Ford 150 tailgate. Comes from the placement of the frame mount holes, they are a fixed distance from the back of the bed. That and the short distance between the kingpin and the front of the Escape. A slider hitch might be a way around it, but I've never used one.
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Old 08-02-2015, 05:06 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Now I get it. I didn't even take into consideration how tall someone is. I'm only 5'7" (on a good day), when I turn and look... I can see the top of the tailgate
I'm 5'10" and change. I didn't consider either that height effects what you can see when you twist around
I've seen but not used a mirror, mounted on the 5th wheel pin box, that allows the driver to see 'down' towards the hitch.
I have a 5th wheel type tail gate that is steel mesh on a solid frame, with the notch for the pin. They rattle a wee bit.
The steel mesh does make it easy to tie things down into the box (chairs, bags, w.h.y.)
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Old 08-02-2015, 05:22 PM   #46
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Ethan, I have a 5.0 T.A. and live in Palm Desert, just over the hill from you. I will be happy to show it to you (everyone else on the road wants to see it!). My wife and I are tentatively planning a night or two at the Oak Grove campground near Warner Springs a week from today. Perhaps we can meet in the vicinity? PM me and we can arrange a viewing.

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Old 08-02-2015, 05:29 PM   #47
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Either way if alone I have to get out once or twice, with the bumper pull for ball alignment, for the FW to verify height.
Wouldn't the right height for the pin be whatever height it was at when unhitching? Of course the jacks are moved after unhitching to level the trailer after unhitching, but a tape measure or a weight and string should allow one to duplicate that height when finished camping.

Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
I also have the 2" or less clearance of a Ford 150 tailgate. Comes from the placement of the frame mount holes, they are a fixed distance from the back of the bed.
That makes sense - Reace presumably sized the pin-to-body clearance to be adequate for typical full-sized trucks, but not larger than necessary because excess clearance with a smaller truck just means more aero drag and a bulkier rig.

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Originally Posted by padlin View Post
A slider hitch might be a way around it, but I've never used one.
If it's a manual slider that's an interesting solution. The automatic sliders (PullRite SuperGlide) are in the full-forward position when straight ahead, and that's the only way to hitch them up, so one of those wouldn't help.
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Old 08-02-2015, 05:34 PM   #48
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Now I get it. I didn't even take into consideration how tall someone is. I'm only 5'7" (on a good day), when I turn and look... I can see the top of the tailgate
This may seem like a silly question, but does your seat move vertically? (Some don't). I'm surprised by how low some people choose to sit in their vehicles, despite the limitation on visibility in all directions. I set mine for just enough clearance to the ceiling for comfort.
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Old 08-02-2015, 05:46 PM   #49
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This may seem like a silly question, but does your seat move vertically? (Some don't). I'm surprised by how low some people choose to sit in their vehicles, despite the limitation on visibility in all directions. I set mine for just enough clearance to the ceiling for comfort.
Probably does, the truck does everything but the dishes and have a cab-mounted camera.
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Old 08-03-2015, 12:32 AM   #50
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As this discussion seems to have moved to the 5.0TA and towing, I have a question. Has anyone added air bags to the rear axle of their pickup to level the rear of the pickup when towing the 5.0TA? - Dan
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Old 08-03-2015, 03:06 AM   #51
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No need on my F150, it only drops an inch or so. At least that's what it looks like.

When towing my old bumper pull I had a set of Air-Lift's on my Ranger, looked like an old swayback horse without. As long as you're within your payload limits they work as intended. You were supposed to keep them at 10 lbs when not towing, then bump them up to whatever was needed to level the rig for towing. Been a while but I don't recall any negative to having them.
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Old 08-03-2015, 07:27 AM   #52
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I added air bags to my 2009 Ram but have not needed to on the 2014 Ram. Remember they do not increase your capacity, just make the rear sag less. I also think they make the ride harsher on the trailer, I'm finding less items in disarray without the bags now than before.
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Old 08-03-2015, 10:03 AM   #53
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Depends what your tow vehicle is.
I tow with a 3/4 t, and the back end might sink 1/2".
When this truck needs replacement, I'l likely go with a 1/2 t.

But I am not going to talk about TV's...
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Old 08-03-2015, 11:04 AM   #54
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All of this hitch discussion makes me wonder about the feasibility of using the Anderson Ultimate Connection. I really like the idea of a 5th wheel hitch that's a 1/3 of the weight of a regular hitch. I also like the concept of the noise-free ball connection. However, the hitching seems like it would require pretty exacting vertical and horizontal alignment.

Although I've seen it mentioned on the forum, is anyone actually using this hitch?

Regards,

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Old 08-03-2015, 11:14 AM   #55
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I really haven't noticed a big difference in hooking up our 5'r versus our Casita. I does seem to take me a few tries to get the height of the king pin just right before actually hooking up. Putting a water bottle on the plate of the hitch makes lining up to the king pin easy. We enjoy the towing experience so much better than a bumper pull that it makes it all worth it.
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Old 08-03-2015, 03:47 PM   #56
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All of this hitch discussion makes me wonder about the feasibility of using the Anderson Ultimate Connection. I really like the idea of a 5th wheel hitch that's a 1/3 of the weight of a regular hitch. I also like the concept of the noise-free ball connection. However, the hitching seems like it would require pretty exacting vertical and horizontal alignment.

Although I've seen it mentioned on the forum, is anyone actually using this hitch?
I don't think alignment is any different from other ball hitches, such as those used on conventional trailers. Also, you can use a different brand of coupler if desired - it's a standard ball size.

I don't know of any Escape owner that has converted to this, and I have not used one. It has been discussed in the FiberglassRV forum, by owners of Scamp 19' trailers, which are the same general configuration as an Escape 5.0/5.0TA, but have (in the original factory form) a coupler for a 2" ball instead of a pin and plate for a fifth-wheel.

I agree that a ball-hitch system would be lighter, simpler, more compact, and thus desirable. Hitching would be different from a fifth-wheel, and the most annoying feature to me would be that safety chains would be required.
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Old 08-04-2015, 12:47 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by ethanallen2 View Post
We (Seniors) are considering downsizing from 27 ft ForestRiver TravelTrailer w 1 slide; a primary reason to get away from heavy weight distribution hitch & labor that goes with it and needing less internal space. We looking at the 5.0TA. We haven't actually seen one yet, just this forum & TrailerLife (Aug 2015); if you have any comments in this regard, would appreciate hearing them. If we are in the right ballpark, we will be looking for more more on the 5.0TA. Thanks! Enjoy your new rig!
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Originally Posted by ethanallen2 View Post
We live in San Marcos, CA, suburb of San Diego,about 6 -7 hr run to LV. Until a month ago, we kids in Henderson...Dohave comments o my original post, reducing labor not having wt distribution bars, etc, vs the 5th wheel hookup? How does the new Ram pull the 5.0TA?
Thanks.
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I too thought that Ethan had a good question how is it comparing hitching up an fifth wheel trailer compared to a standard travel trailer? Easier, harder ,faster ,slower ?
Mark
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scout View Post
All of this hitch discussion makes me wonder about the feasibility of using the Anderson Ultimate Connection. I really like the idea of a 5th wheel hitch that's a 1/3 of the weight of a regular hitch. I also like the concept of the noise-free ball connection. However, the hitching seems like it would require pretty exacting vertical and horizontal alignment.

Although I've seen it mentioned on the forum, is anyone actually using this hitch?

Regards,

Scout
Scout, I have been using the Andersen Ultimate 3200 for about the last 4,000 miles of towing, and I absolutely love it. It is no more difficult to connect than a regular 5th wheel hitch, and might even be easier as time goes on. I love the fact that it only weighs 40 lbs. My previous hitch was the Reese that ETI sells, its heavy 150 lbs, bounces around both up and down and back and forth, and is noisy if the back window is open. There have been times when the noise made my wife jump when she wasn't expecting it. You will experience none of that with the Ultimate. Its rock solid, and makes no noise at all and requires no lubrication. Its clearly a superior design! I will never go back to the standard 5th wheel hitch.

Someone here mentioned you need safety chains with this hitch. I may have misunderstood them, but that is not correct. You do not need safety chains or anything extra that is not use on a standard 5th wheel hitch.
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Old 08-04-2015, 02:14 PM   #58
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Someone here mentioned you need safety chains with this hitch. I may have misunderstood them, but that is not correct. You do not need safety chains or anything extra that is not use on a standard 5th wheel hitch.
Safety chains are not a requirement by Andersen, but are legally required in many areas for any ball hitch - placing the hitch in the truck box rather than behind the bumper doesn't change this requirement. This is well-known to users of gooseneck trailers with ball hitches, which are common in agriculture (including trailers for livestock such as horses); the ball mounts which are intended for use in the floor of a truck box routinely include chain loops.

For instance, here's the Alberta requirement:
Quote:
If you have a ball-and-socket hitch, you will also need safety chains as a secondary means of attachment. Chains should be crossed under the tongue of the trailer and correctly fastened. This applies to all trailers except fifth-wheel trailers.
Here's the relevant bit of the Recreational Vehicle Towing in British Columbia Fact Sheet from the CVSE:
Quote:
• All vehicles being towed via a ball hitch must have safety chain(s) or cable(s).
• A recreational vehicle towed via a 5th wheel hook-up does not require safety chains or
cables.
The Andersen Ultimate is a ball-and-socket hitch, and not a fifth-wheel.

Local requirements do vary, and chains are presumably not required in some areas.
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Old 08-04-2015, 02:27 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Hitching would be different from a fifth-wheel...
Just to be more explicitly clear:
  • A pin-and-plate or "fifth-wheel" hitch requires that you
    • set the trailer height to have the pin nearly match hitch height or slightly lower,
    • line up the side-to-side location of the slot in the hitch plate to the pin to within roughly a couple of inches,
    • then back the truck into the pin,
    • then ensure that the hitch is latched, plug in the electrical umbilical, and hook up the breakaway switch cable.
  • A socket-over-ball hitch requires that you
    • raise the trailer to have the coupler clear of the ball,
    • line up the fore-aft and side-to-side location of the trailer's coupler over the ball to within roughly 1/4 of the ball diameter,
    • then lower the trailer onto the ball,
    • then ensure that the hitch is latched, plug in the electrical umbilical, hook up the breakaway switch cable, and hook up the safety chains.

Different. Both require reasonably accurate alignment in two dimensions. Which system is easier depends on what you can set or judge more accurately.
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Old 08-06-2015, 12:38 AM   #60
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Scuba55 and all of the others who have joined in on this thread: Thanks!! Great to hear from an AndersonUltimate Connection. Part of our original consideration is to get away from a 27 ft TT and the weight distribution bars/sway control (In my 80th yr, currently right arm casted after surgery to correct severe thumb arthritis), and height challenged at 5'7"; started with 36 ft Bounder with tow car (quick & easy hookup), then down-sized to 27 ft TT (labor intensive hookup & learn to back the rig!). TT has electric tongue jack, easy to position ball height and with Ram's backup camera, relatively easy to hitch the ball. I have heard the 5.0TA has front electric legs/jacks; are they easily controllable to adjust the Anderson Hitch to accept the ball? Now, with the tailgate down, the hitch on the ball...how does one get into the truck bed,
under the front of the trailer to lock the ball in place?? Or looking at the photos, does one solve this from truck box, but in front of the trailer hitch? I am wondering if there is space to
open the tailgate during the hitching op? Absolutely no fifth wheel experience or even close observation. I have gotten looks at photos of the Anderson Hitch but don't recall how the hitch is "securely" locked on the ball. Thanks to Brian B-P for providing Alberta and British Columbia chain requirements, exempting if the trailer is a fifth wheel. Scuba55: any knowledge on any US requirements? My wife Jacki is from Canada...maybe that will get me by! Thanks again to all the contributors!!
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