Escape 5.0 TA vs Arctic Fox 22G - Page 5 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 03-19-2016, 01:01 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Bobbito View Post
YogiYoda, I missed your statement that damage in Escapes is likely to be cosmetic or not structurally significant. But clearly I can't ignore seal maintenance just because it is a molded shell. How many days a year of rain for you on Florida? Maybe it dries just as quickly. Here near Vancouver we can have extremely long periods of rain, weeks long with no time for surfaces to dry out.

I'm not the one to ask about maintenance. I've never had a trailer! All my knowledge is from reading and talking with others.

Here's Orlando info:

Orlando, Florida Climate

FYI- it's raining right now as I type this.

In the summer, we get heavy afternoon thunderstorms for many days in a row. It's usually not a constant rain for days, but it's always humid. When it does rain for days at time it's usually a lighter rain. There is a major problem with mold and mildew down here. Anyone parked in the shade of trees and not on top of cleaning their RVs will get mildew growth.
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Old 03-19-2016, 01:25 PM   #42
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It sounds like you have similar problems to us here in the Vancouver area, but of course you have it much warmer there. I should admit that my passionate response is biased by our experience with leaks on our Nash. I just wanted you and others to be aware of the potential damage and that no amount of checking (not even pressure testing the whole trailer) will detect a pinhole leak through sealant. I have seen happy stick built owners whose trailers have lasted. I guess its like playing roulette. Some win and some lose big.
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Old 03-19-2016, 01:32 PM   #43
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On my sticky when I had it, first thing I did was to remove the dicor and do every seam with the 20 year seam tape. Not only did I never have to get on the roof and reseal ever again, it seemed to take care of the seams leaking. In the two years that I had it, I never saw any evidence of leaks from the roof, but you can't see what's running down inside walls from Windows, etc. You can keep the stick builds leak free, but it takes a major aggressive constant viligant effort that I grew tired of.
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Old 03-19-2016, 02:34 PM   #44
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Escape 5.0 TA vs Arctic Fox 22G

Greg, one thought I had was that the screws that went through the butyl tape on seams into the frame might have reamed it out a bit from the flexing on getting into certain campsites or trips down rough roads. I know there was a plastic cap that covered the screw channel of the corner molding, but do you think water could seep in at the roofline where it is level? I never knew for sure the exact spot the water penetrated the shell. Any thoughts on this?
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Old 03-19-2016, 02:46 PM   #45
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Hey Bob,
With the 20 year seam tape, it went right over the screws so there was no longer any leak issue from any point the seam tape covered. If you needed to replace a vent you just razor cut the tape around the vent replaced the vent and then re-taped the new vent. I'm pretty certain my roof was tight. Not sure about leaks around the Windows/vents on the side of the trailer, but I reset those in the beginning and never saw any addl leaks.
Needless to say I'm very happy to be back in molded fiberglass, the issues are so minimal and I spend my time making the trailer better, not chasing leaks.
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Old 03-19-2016, 02:50 PM   #46
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leaks

One reason to be in AZ now is the fact that we have lived and had RV's in the SFO area as well as traveled extensively up and down the Wet coast, and had to remove up to three feet of snow off the poor little Scamp when we lived in Utah. One motorhome we had was full steel framed body on a 70's Tioga that did not twist and complain and it was leak free even being used for a ski cabin at times in the Sierras.
Now I just ignore our trailer until it's time to go. If we did want something larger than the 21 (2 or 4 foot itis) I would look at the Big Foot.
AZ jack planning on Calif next month.
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Old 03-19-2016, 02:56 PM   #47
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Bigfoot 25 rear queen with the walk around bed and true 4 season package. That's where we originally thought we were heading for the retirement trailer, but decided we didn't want the truck that was needed to pull it.
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Old 03-19-2016, 03:03 PM   #48
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big foot

Maybe we could just hire someone to move it for us. Jack
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Old 03-19-2016, 03:05 PM   #49
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Maybe we could just hire someone to move it for us. Jack
Wanna go in on one with a driver and we each get 26 weeks?
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Old 03-19-2016, 03:24 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by padlin View Post
Don't know if it's still Filon.

"One-Piece, Corona Treated, Continuous Fiberglass
Hot, Polyurethane Laminated, Multi-Layered Substrate Walls"
Someone at Northwoods sure has a flair for written B.S. I'm pretty sure that means a bunch of layers glued together, like every other conventional modern RV.
  • one-piece: the whole wall is one multi-layer panel
  • continuous fiberglass: Filon or similar sheet of extruded fiberglass exterior sheet
  • polyurethane laminated: layers glued together with urethane glue
  • multi-layered: fiberglass, plywood, foam insulation, plywood
  • substrate: the plywood
It's anyone's guess what "corona treated" means. The author of the spec page probably doesn't, since that author doesn't understand that a "slam latch" is a latch you can slam closed (no need to hold the handle open while closing the door), and isn't an acronym... "SLAM".
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