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Old 06-17-2016, 08:25 PM   #61
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This is scary. Even know who posted this before looking brianbp!!!!
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Old 06-17-2016, 08:33 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyfree View Post
She always liked that trailer better than the truck camper we had for a couple of years, which is one of the big reasons we are getting an Escape.
Not surprising. The Eclipse Milan Lite (I'm assuming yours was a T21) is a very nice looking trailer inside and way more livable than a truck camper.
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Old 06-17-2016, 09:51 PM   #63
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Since I'm the one that threw this thread off-track, let me amend the post.

I should have looked up the Bulldog coupler I installed instead of relying on my porous memory. I used a Bulldog Collar-lock A-frame coupler with the high profile latch, 2 5/16". It's about $79. at e-trailer, not $50. as I posted.

Why? I didn't feel comfortable with the little sliding latch on the original coupler used by Bigfoot and kept feeling around the greasy ball to make sure it was latched. With the Bulldog, I can see that the ball is clamped and the collar is locked at a glance. Anything to make us feel more comfortable, right?
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Old 06-17-2016, 10:21 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by Rossue View Post
Have been searching this subject and it looks like the coupler on my 21 is an Atwood AT80072.
This one: Atwood AT80072 at eTrailer?

If it is that Atwood, then as the •Installation •Operation •Maintenance manual says...
Quote:
Note: These are non-locking couplers
There's nowhere to put a pin which would prevent the latch from flipping up. The tabs on the latch only stay in the slots on the housing because if something pulls the yoke up it drives the tabs into the slots, rather than popping them out. There are other brands of a similar yoke-style design which do have a locking pin provision for the latch.

If something does flip the latch (something bouncing around catches on it? someone flips it up manually?) it removes one stage of retention for the yoke, which will probably still stay in place.

The Atwood 80072 is essentially the same design as on my 37-year-old Boler, but a different model (mine doesn't have a model number on it). Mine also has no provision for a locking pin, but stays latched reliably without it.

Was the latch flipped up (tabs out of the slots), but the yoke still down?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue View Post
What got me wondering was your comment about the Andersen putting pressure on the back of the yoke.
The chains of the Andersen No-Sway should be pulling the back of the coupler hard against the ball, but at the same time the weight of the tongue is pushing the coupler down against the ball. If the result has the sliding jaw pushed against the ball, the jaw will pull back on the yoke. Because the front of the coupler housing curves back a bit under the ball (the reason why people note that the trailer doesn't want to come straight up off the ball) and the yoke is pivoted just under the centre of the ball, the yoke should tend to pull down rather than popping up - it should stay in place even without the latch engaged. My Atwood was rusty and sticky when I got the trailer so the latch didn't engage easily, but the yoke stayed firmly engaged anyway.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue View Post
The rim going around the front of the coupler is slightly curled upward and I did show that to Reace who didn't think it was an issue.
By rim, do you mean the flange the runs around the opening as reinforcement? I think this might be bent up a bit when they are made, but even if not it only takes being bumped into the top of a ball a few times to push it that way.
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Old 06-17-2016, 10:24 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by tidewater View Post
With the Bulldog, I can see that the ball is clamped and the collar is locked at a glance.
Definitely a good feature. It is visually clear that the clamp is in place with the yoke design, too, but the collar action of the Bulldog Collar-Lok is particularly clear.
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Old 06-17-2016, 10:49 PM   #66
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I use the electric jack to pick up the rear end of the tow vehicle after hitching up. If not latched & locked it will pop the ball out. Simple!
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Old 06-17-2016, 10:50 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
This one: Atwood AT80072 at eTrailer?

If it is that Atwood, then as the •Installation •Operation •Maintenance manual says...

There's nowhere to put a pin which would prevent the latch from flipping up. The tabs on the latch only stay in the slots on the housing because if something pulls the yoke up it drives the tabs into the slots, rather than popping them out. There are other brands of a similar yoke-style design which do have a locking pin provision for the latch.

If something does flip the latch (something bouncing around catches on it? someone flips it up manually?) it removes one stage of retention for the yoke, which will probably still stay in place.

The Atwood 80072 is essentially the same design as on my 37-year-old Boler, but a different model (mine doesn't have a model number on it). Mine also has no provision for a locking pin, but stays latched reliably without it.


By rim, do you mean the flange the runs around the opening as reinforcement? I think this might be bent up a bit when they are made, but even if not it only takes being bumped into the top of a ball a few times to push it that way.
Brian, I looked again at etrailer from your link and they state that you can put a locking pin into the coupler.

I don't think the outside rim is an issue, however looking closely at the tongue and moving it around am at once both skeptical that it could move upward after inserting the pin then wondering if it could actually pivot up while attached through the ringhole.
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Old 06-17-2016, 11:39 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by Rossue View Post
Brian, I looked again at etrailer from your link and they state that you can put a locking pin into the coupler.
Sure enough - although they attach the same Atwood document saying it is not lockable, the photo and drawing both show a hole which is presumably for the pin or lock. I suppose Atwood just didn't update the description when they changed the design.
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Old 08-12-2016, 02:50 PM   #69
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New Coupler Installed

Just had my coupler replaced under warranty but it required some persistence and patience.

When I first called Atwood(now owned by Dometic) about the problem they didn't want to talk with me- just their "dealer"(Dexter just the opposite). So I got the RV shop on a conference call and explained that the coupler latch opened 3 times after towing in the last 6 weeks; twice with the Andersen and once with the new Pro Series WDH and new 2" ball. That was enough for Atwood(hello-liability) and they agreed to send out a latch kit. The latch kit was horrible; the bolt wasn't long enough and the pin wouldn't align with the outside holes and the inside ring on top of the coupler. It also fit so tight that the mechanic said it would start wearing out the coupler inside as the ball was way harder. Trouble was they had to grind off the staked end of the pin to remove the original latch and trying to put that back together wasn't an option.

Spoke with a technical support rep at Atwood who said he saw the kit order the week before and didn't like sending out the kit. His opinion was just do the whole coupler. Being that they didn't have one in a warehouse he told me to order one third-party which I did. Maybe that's why he didn't send the coupler? Anyway, Amazon Prime had it with free two-day shipping fortunately.

The part arrived and was installed, which requires grinding off the old and welding on the new part. New one works great; so far so good. The shop had to submit two separate Warranty Service Reports- one for the kit and another for the coupler. Being that I bought the part I have to send it back to get paid; they are going to send a UPS label though. Oh, well at least I am not wondering about the coupler opening on its own now. Although Atwood/Dometic is a huge company I did find working with them to be Ok once I had contact info rather than just an 800#. That happened by accident when I sent an inquiry on their website asking for a tracking number for the latch kit they sent.

To answer a question Brian posed earlier- each time the coupler opened the fins were still in the slots. and the tab was down. Am thinking there was just a lot of slop in there created over the last 25K or so miles towing. Did learn a lot about couplers though with this and the one thing I will always do now before a trip is to R & R the grease in the coupler. Am thinking the original Andersen instructions of not using any grease is questionable in the use of a coupler as they need lubrication ...the ball is a harder metal and is likely to cause wear inside the coupler housing without any.
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Old 08-12-2016, 02:59 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue View Post
Just had my coupler replaced under warranty but it required some persistence and patience.

When I first called Atwood(now owned by Dometic) about the problem they didn't want to talk with me- just their "dealer"(Dexter just the opposite). So I got the RV shop on a conference call and explained that the coupler opened 3 times after towing in the last 6 weeks; twice with the Andersen and once with the new Pro Series WDH and new 2" ball. That was enough for Atwood(hello-liability) and they agreed to send out a latch kit. The latch kit was horrible; the bolt wasn't long enough and the pin wouldn't align with the outside holes and the inside ring on top of the coupler. It also fit so tight that the mechanic said it would start wearing out the coupler inside as the ball was way harder. Trouble was they had to grind off the staked end of the pin to remove the original latch and trying to put that back together wasn't an option.

Spoke with a technical support rep at Atwood who said he saw the kit order the week before and didn't like sending out the kit. His opinion was just do the whole coupler. Being that they didn't have one in a warehouse he told me to order one third-party which I did. Maybe that's why he didn't send the coupler? Anyway, Amazon Prime had it with free two-day shipping fortunately.

The part arrived and was installed, which requires grinding off the old and welding on the new part. New one works great; so far so good. The shop had to submit two separate Warranty Service Reports- one for the kit and another for the coupler. Being that I bought the part I have to send it back to get paid; they are going to send a UPS label though. Oh, well at least I am not wondering about the coupler opening on its own now. Although Atwood/Dometic is a huge company I did find working with them to be Ok once I had contact info rather than just an 800#. That happened by accident when I sent an inquiry on their website asking for a tracking number for the latch kit they sent.

To answer a question Brian posed earlier- each time the coupler opened the fins were still in the slots. and the tab was down. Am thinking there was just a lot of slop in there created over the last 25K or so miles towing. Did learn a lot about couplers though with this and the one thing I will always do now before a trip is to R & R the grease in the coupler. Am thinking the original Andersen instructions of not using any grease is questionable in the use of a coupler as they need lubrication ...the ball is a harder metal and is likely to cause wear inside the coupler housing without any.
Thanks for the report . Glad you got it solved . When we picked up our trailer Dennis who hooked us up said to not put grease on ball . I started out that way but saw marking on the ball . I bought some Reese ball grease ,Also have a cover . I always have been putting new clean grease on ball . 2 metal parts rubbing together in my mind need some lubrication . Pat
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