First impressions of our new 5.0TA

[Telescopist]

Originally Posted by davidmurphy02

In my first post I was just mentioning the type of lock, and said I'd have to check on what size. In a later post Padamas provided a link to the 7/8" size and said they fit perfectly, so that's what I ordered and they are just right.

I will read more carefully next time.

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by padamas

From Amazon; Prime Products 18-3325 7/8 ACE Camlock- Pack of 4
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Prime+Pro...ref=nb_sb_noss

I also installed these locks. They were a perfect fit, and the key now goes in and out without a fight. However, the key is only removeable if the lock is turned shut. I wish I could pull the key out locked or not locked. OTOH, anything is better than the locks ETI provided.

Enjoy,

Perry

[davidmurphy02]

Originally Posted by Perryb67

I also installed these locks. They were a perfect fit, and the key now goes in and out without a fight. However, the key is only removeable if the lock is turned shut. I wish I could pull the key out locked or not locked. OTOH, anything is better than the locks ETI provided.

Perry

It is a pain not being able to remove the key when the lock is unlocked....but then that also prevents you from inadvertenly hitting the road with a hatch unlocked and flapping. Since the front hatches are hinged at the bottom they'd be obviously open, but the side hatch might not.

[akmacs]

We are very happy with our 5.0 TA, but the factory water test didn't catch the leaky window we found about 4 days after picking it up either.

I guess the rainstorm was the silver lining of a very wet Canada Day weekend because we were still able to backtrack to the factory at that point to change it out. We had the added bonus of the rain diverters added above the windows too so it worked out.

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by davidmurphy02

It is a pain not being able to remove the key when the lock is unlocked....but then that also prevents you from inadvertenly hitting the road with a hatch unlocked and flapping. Since the front hatches are hinged at the bottom they'd be obviously open, but the side hatch might not.

We learned a couple of decades ago that before you leave check to make sure all hatches are closed. When we got home most of our landing gear stuff (chocks, wheel lock, leggo's, etc) were scattered down a couple hundred miles of highway. Only once since then have we had a hatch open and that was for the LP tanks and nothing fell out.

In the campground we go in and out of the hatch over the LP tanks, and the rear passenger hatch, quite often and only use the left closure to close it, not needing a key for every entry. We'll see how we'll like these locks in those positions.

Enjoy,

Perry

[davidmurphy02]

Originally Posted by Perryb67

We learned a couple of decades ago that before you leave check to make sure all hatches are closed. When we got home most of our landing gear stuff (chocks, wheel lock, leggo's, etc) were scattered down a couple hundred miles of highway. Only once since then have we had a hatch open and that was for the LP tanks and nothing fell out.

In the campground we go in and out of the hatch over the LP tanks, and the rear passenger hatch, quite often and only use the left closure to close it, not needing a key for every entry. We'll see how we'll like these locks in those positions.

Enjoy,

Perry

I was surprised to see no lock on the LP tank hatch, our previous trailer had one there - wonder if that is a Canadian regulation? I added a lock to ours since our trailer spends a good bit of time at a storage facility with many people coming and going. I would assume that maybe on ferries they would want to be able to check to verify all propane was turned off and I can just unlock or put the non-locking latch back on if that ever arises.

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by davidmurphy02

I was surprised to see no lock on the LP tank hatch, our previous trailer had one there - wonder if that is a Canadian regulation? I added a lock to ours since our trailer spends a good bit of time at a storage facility with many people coming and going. I would assume that maybe on ferries they would want to be able to check to verify all propane was turned off and I can just unlock or put the non-locking latch back on if that ever arises.

I knew there was a good spot for that 4th lock if we ever decide to store our trailer outside.

Enjoy,

Perry

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by davidmurphy02

I was surprised to see no lock on the LP tank hatch, our previous trailer had one there - wonder if that is a Canadian regulation? I added a lock to ours since our trailer spends a good bit of time at a storage facility with many people coming and going.

It certainly appears to be a requirement of new recreational vehicles sold here that the propane tanks be accessible so that their valves can be shut off in an emergency. The requirement would be in CSA Z240, and that can be read free online (with a registered account), but it needs a Flash player which I don't currently have installed. My motorhome was built in the U.S., and the propane compartment is the only non-lockable exterior compartment. The U.S. equivalent to CSA Z240 is the RVIA set of standards, which in turn mostly refer to other standards such as the U.S. NFPA.

One site that I found in a quick search says:

One of the concerns many consumers have is the fact that their propane compartment does not have a lock on the access door. This is correct as the RVIA code specifically requires they be readily accessible.

The requirement for the U.S. might be in NFPA 1192, but I'm not paying for access to download that.

Neither CSA nor RVIA requirements apply to your RV after you buy it, only to RVs as they are first manufactured and sold. So legally you can probably do what you want, but there is a reason for keeping tank valves accessible, which I think should be considered. At the very least, it seems prudent to me to follow a procedure in which you always close the tank valves before locking the compartment.

[davidmurphy02]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

My concern is that there might not be room to twist it on given the tight arrangement of valves.

Just a little follow up on this. The add-on dump valve is terrific - the collar that locks onto the sewer fitting rotates, so it goes on easily and fits right in between the other handles - would not have worked if not for that rotating collar. This item will definitely travel with me to be able to easily deal with similar problems in the future while on the road.

When we got home I removed the add-on valve and I was able to stick a garden hose nozzle in the sewer fitting and point it around the corner to spray the black valve extensively while operating it. Then I added several gallons of water to the tank, and in the few days since we have been home it hasn't leaked a drop. We are about to head out on a short trip to New Mexico for a funeral and I'll find out for sure if my problem is fixed, sure looks like it at this point.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by davidmurphy02

Just a little follow up on this. The add-on dump valve is terrific - the collar that locks onto the sewer fitting rotates, so it goes on easily and fits right in between the other handles - would not have worked if not for that rotating collar. This item will definitely travel with me to be able to easily deal with similar problems in the future while on the road.

When we got home I removed the add-on valve and I was able to stick a garden hose nozzle in the sewer fitting and point it around the corner to spray the black valve extensively while operating it. Then I added several gallons of water to the tank, and in the few days since we have been home it hasn't leaked a drop. We are about to head out on a short trip to New Mexico for a funeral and I'll find out for sure if my problem is fixed, sure looks like it at this point.

Thanks for following up on this. When I posted I didn't know the collar turned, but that makes complete sense. Carrying one of those as an emergency solution if one of the stock tank valves acts up sounds like a great idea. Glad you've solved the problem for now though.

Here's another trick so you aren't surprised with any wastewater as you test the stock valves. Use a clear cap with a drain. That way you should be able to see if you have any waste bypassing the main valves and if you do you can drain it off in a controlled manner before removing the main cap.
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...20-1CLRVP.html

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Use a clear cap with a drain. That way you should be able to see if you have any waste bypassing the main valves and if you do you can drain it off in a controlled manner before removing the main cap.
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...20-1CLRVP.html

That cap worked fine until I didn't check for water and opened it up, getting waste all over my hands. We now use a clear cap with a drain AND handle. With the handle you don't get anything on your hands and it is much, much easier to remove.

Enjoy,

Perry

[MikeS]

Originally Posted by Perryb67

That cap worked fine until I didn't check for water and opened it up, getting waste all over my hands. We now use a clear cap with a drain AND handle. With the handle you don't get anything on your hands and it is much, much easier to remove.

Enjoy,

Perry

Perry you are killing me this week with accessories!!!! At least they are under $10...so far.

Any risk of the handle hitting anything or is it pretty low profile?

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Perryb67

That cap worked fine until I didn't check for water and opened it up, getting waste all over my hands. We now use a clear cap with a drain AND handle. With the handle you don't get anything on your hands and it is much, much easier to remove.

Looks like we are arriving at the best solution. Your link in post 70 had the drain and handle, but the cap was black. I think the clear is a smart idea.