First time 21' observations……and emergency cable discussion

[cpaharley2008]

here are some pictures of new extended stinger and new jack with smaller/removable handle and Fastway coiled emergency cable and new clip on mirrors.

[cpaharley2008]

note I shortened the chains by 2 links and moved the clevis hooks.

[Brian B-P]

It looks like the breakaway cable will not be tight even when the chains are, so the switch will not be triggered unless the chains break. Fine, if that's your intent - I don't recall the conclusion of the extended earlier discussion of this topic.

[cpaharley2008]

I believe that is the same way as from the factory which was to loop through the cable through the chains. Will not activate unless the chains break.

[Donna D.]

I purchase the coiled Fastway break away switch for my Scamp several years ago. I didn't want to loop or tie the "brake" switch... OMG some folks loop it around the jack. AND, I want the trailer brakes to engage BEFORE the entire trailer is heading south, and the tug is going north... if the trailer is off the ball and the hitch is down on the chains.. THAT's when you need the trailer brakes to engage. NOT when the two items have totally disconnected. YMMV (scary!)

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

I believe that is the same way as from the factory which was to loop through the cable through the chains. Will not activate unless the chains break.

Okay - no problem. Just be sure that the electrical cable is long enough that it won't pull out when the trailer is attached only by the taut chains... it would be bad to lose brake control (due to the cable pulling out) and not have the breakaway switch engage.

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

I purchase the coiled Fastway break away switch for my Scamp several years ago. I didn't want to loop or tie the "brake" switch... OMG some folks loop it around the jack. AND, I want the trailer brakes to engage BEFORE the entire trailer is heading south, and the tug is going north... if the trailer is off the ball and the hitch is down on the chains.. THAT's when you need the trailer brakes to engage. NOT when the two items have totally disconnected. YMMV (scary!)

Donna, could you please post of picture of your set up showing the Fastway? I got the shortest set up which is 48". Maybe the switch needs to be moved back?

[Donna D.]

Jm, I've looked at your pics.. that the way it should be set up. As SOON as the hitch falls off the ball and lays in the cradle of the chains... THAT's when you want the brakes to engage on the trailer. NOT when the tug and tow are both totally disconnected. I think that's what the documentation from Fastway says.

I'm hooking up and going camping at the NOG in about five weeks. Photos then, patience.

[Jubal]

If the safety chains fail the breakaway brake switch is considered the last line of defense against a runaway trailer.

[Brian B-P]

In the earlier discussion it became apparent that there were different approaches to when the breakaway switch should trigger, but I think clearly it must trigger before the electrical cable comes out, if the electrical cable comes out while the chains are still intact. Whether it triggers within the reach of the chains or only after the chains fail is the topic of debate.

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

I got the shortest set up which is 48". Maybe the switch needs to be moved back?

I'm surprised it's that short: it looks like about two feet as installed, and it looks like it can go more than twice that length, but that's only a rough visual guess. In any case, if the trailer is unhitched but left with the chains connected, and pulled back from the tug, does the breakaway cable length stretch to more than four feet? If not, the switch won't be pulled.

I would hesitate to move the switch, because you would then risk the cable getting snagged in all the other hardware (especially with the Anderson No-Sway chains) and not pulling out of the switch.

Fastway's cable installation instructions say nothing about length. The instructions for installation complete with switch refer to placing the switch, and still say nothing about cable length or arranging when it is triggered. They may assume that it is only for when the trailer becomes completely separated, including failure of the chains.

The Zip cable comes in only two lengths (4' and 6'), but it could be made shorter. My guess is that most people will likely not want to deal with crimping or clamping fittings on the cable to do that.

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

I believe that is the same way as from the factory which was to loop through the cable through the chains. Will not activate unless the chains break.

When Reace showed me how to hook up the break away cable, he did NOT loop it through the chains. The chains and the break-away cable were entirely separate.
He made a granny knot in the cable to make it shorter so it would not hang down to far.
He then ran it through the clip for the pin for the ball mount and placed the loop end over the pin. Then he placed the clip on the ball mount pin. ( Better described with video ).

[Jubal]

Installation instructions:
http://www.bsatroop30.org/Files/Trai...AwaySwitch.pdf

[cpaharley2008]

Just went out and opened the new style sewer holder, there was a hose inside. Anyway I removed the factory slinky and went to the garage and retrieved my Rhinoflex hose assembly and attachments, guess what, they now fit inside the newer style sewer hose. Kudos to ETI for upgrading to the larger pipe where you no longer have to trim away those nubs on the sewer connections. Room for an extra hose also. I'm a happy camper.

[techfan]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Just went out and opened the new style sewer holder, there was a hose inside. Anyway I removed the factory slinky and went to the garage and retrieved my Rhinoflex hose assembly and attachments, guess what, they now fit inside the newer style sewer hose. Kudos to ETI for upgrading to the larger pipe where you no longer have to trim away those nubs on the sewer connections. Room for an extra hose also. I'm a happy camper.

Yep, showed a picture of the new holder on "slinky" thread. Holds all of the Rhino except the adapter. You do have to shorten the 15 foot tube, however.

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...html#post45822

[LeonW]

Thanks, Jim. I had been wondering about that. When the factory slinky died, I replaced it with one of the blueline hoses. Several folks warned me that I might have problems, but in fact it has worked well. Fits easily in the sewer holder and hasn't spilled anything yet!

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by techfan

Yep, showed a picture of the new holder on "slinky" thread. Holds all of the Rhino except the adapter. You do have to shorten the 15 foot tube, however.

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...html#post45822

Maybe on the smaller 15 it is shorter, but I put the entire Rhino hose length and there is room for another. I'll measure it tomorrow and post.

[techfan]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Maybe on the smaller 15 it is shorter, but I put the entire Rhino hose length and there is room for another. I'll measure it tomorrow and post.

That's great! Maybe they also started using a longer one. A longer one could have gone on the 15. I know I had to cut my 15 Rhino down to 12. I'll measure mine also.

[Donna D.]

Maybe it's because Jim's trailer is 8" wider and the stinky slinky tube is longer?

[Dave Walter]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Maybe it's because Jim's trailer is 8" wider and the stinky slinky tube is longer?

I think you are correct Donna regarding the width. Although our 19' has a large diameter factory installed tube for storing the black water hose, I was unable to fit both the factory hose and my new Rhinoflex hose in at the same time as the storage tube was just a tad short.

[7th Heaven]

. Being a newbie I thought it was right smart of ETI when I slipped my 15' rhino into the holder on the 21 including all elbows and adapters