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Old 01-16-2014, 10:57 PM   #101
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I was looking at some site for Clevis hook application. It was too technical, with charts and angles of approach and such so I don't remember much. But, in rating what weight the hook could lift, they spent several sentences on how you're not supposed to apply sudden weight, as in jerking it up, or dropping a weight. Seems to me that a trailer disconnect would be a sudden application of force, so the weight rating of the hook wouldn't apply.
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Old 01-17-2014, 12:08 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ice-breaker View Post
The carabiner you show is not likely rated to carry loads such as from the safety chains. Both the quick links and the Clovis hooks would likely be fine.
I wondered about that. It states clearly it is rated at 900 pounds whereas the Quicklink Escape provides is rated at about 2400 pounds. Sounds plenty tough. We know the 19's trailer weight is a rough 4000 pounds give or take, but would that really be relevant if I am looping the chain through, like Fudgie does, so as he points out, the key stress point is on the chain at the turn on the hitch hole and the carabiner's job is merely to keep the chain loop connected and closed?

Plus, what gbag just said.
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Old 01-17-2014, 12:12 AM   #103
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I haven't tried the easy connector, but it looks like a good solution to a problem I have. I will give it a try this spring.

Regarding hitches coming uncoupled. Has any one had that happen with a weight distribution hitch? Seems like the if it came off the ball the bars would prevent the trailer from dropping and from rear ending the tow vehicle.
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Old 01-17-2014, 12:17 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
Back to the chains, what holds that latch closed on those clevis hooks pictured?
Typically, a spring.

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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
I looked up clevis hooks at Home Depot and they were just open. No latch.
They are available both ways - try the store in person, or Canadian Tire, or somewhere else. There are so many combinations of features that finding the right one in stock can be tough, and many retailers - including Home Depot - do not offe the same selection in-store and online.

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My concern is that they work under tension when lifting a load, but with a slack chain that bouncing might allow the chain to come loose.
I agree. Properly used, they typically don't bounce out, but a safety latch makes sense.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
I was looking at some site for Clevis hook application. It was too technical, with charts and angles of approach and such so I don't remember much. But, in rating what weight the hook could lift, they spent several sentences on how you're not supposed to apply sudden weight, as in jerking it up, or dropping a weight. Seems to me that a trailer disconnect would be a sudden application of force, so the weight rating of the hook wouldn't apply.
That's why the chains which never have to support the whole trailer hanging from them, are specified to handle a force equal to the entire weight of the trailer each.
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Old 01-17-2014, 12:30 AM   #105
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Originally Posted by LeonW View Post
Regarding hitches coming uncoupled. Has any one had that happen with a weight distribution hitch? Seems like the if it came off the ball the bars would prevent the trailer from dropping and from rear ending the tow vehicle.
A typical WD system will keep the coupler from lifting off the ball even if the coupler is unlatched, because the chains are pulling down on the trailer with hundreds of pounds of force. If it does come off anyway - such as due to the coupler or ball breaking - that same tension will pull the tongue aggressively down until the bars straighten out or the bar ends hit the ground (whichever comes first) and the chains go slack. At that point, the bars and chains might somewhat control the trailer... or the chains might fall off the snap-up brackets and the bars might fall out of the head or just swing out to the sides uselessly.

I would not expect a crude device designed to pry up on the back of the tug to act as a backup hitch system.
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Old 01-17-2014, 12:53 AM   #106
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Brian, I wasn't suggesting skipping the chains, safety checks, etc. just trying to understand what effect a WDH would have in all these scenarios. I have only been towing for a couple of years, and the main lesson I have from this lengthy discussion is that I don't ever want it to happen to me.
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Old 01-17-2014, 09:32 AM   #107
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After more I (over)thinking this all, I have (temporarily?) decided that I am going to continue using the "quicklink" type that came on my trailer. Even though there are potential problems with the threads, personally, I prefer a threaded connection to something that relies on a small spring to keep it safely closed. After hearing about potential problems with the threads, I'm going to buy a spare pair to have along with us.

And Leon - in my humble opinion - those "crude" WDHs should help keep the hitch from being able to escape the ball unless something major breaks.
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Old 01-17-2014, 03:48 PM   #108
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Eric, I've used the quicklink-type on my Scamp for 10 years. Once a year, a squirt of WD-40 and they've never frozen up. I also squirt graphite in the door lockset of the trailer at the same time. Just one of those maintenance issues for me.
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Old 01-17-2014, 03:52 PM   #109
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When I replaced my Fastec lock and had the locksmith involved, he said not to use graphite, wd-40 was his recommendation. Graphite can clog small locks, bigger ones not so much. FWIW
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Old 01-17-2014, 09:35 PM   #110
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Well Jim, I won't disagree with your locksmith. All I know is what's worked for me. WD-40 can attract dirt and dust because it's silicone. Graphite wears out, but doesn't attract "stuff." All I know, is I've never had "problems" doin' what I'm doin' for ten years. Now, the 11th year?
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