First time 21' observations……and emergency cable discussion - Page 13 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 01-18-2014, 12:07 PM   #121
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WD-40 is mineral oil and solvent, intended as a water-displacing fluid for rust prevention, but somewhat useful to free stuck stuff and (if a better solvent is not handy) to clean some mechanical devices. I'm pretty sure that it has no silicone in it, which is supported by the corresponding Wikipedia page and the manufacturer's FAQ:
Quote:
While the ingredients in WD-40 Multi-Use Product are secret, we can tell you what it does NOT contain. WD-40 Multi-Use Product does not contain silicone, kerosene, water, graphite, or chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs).
There is now a line of products under the WD-40 brand, called "WD-40 Specialist", which includes a silicone lubricant; this is not the product sold simply as "WD-40". The WD-40 Specialist Water Resistant Silicone Lubricant is clearly labeled as such.

The problem with WD-40 and dirt collection is simply the oil component. Put any oil on anything, leave it exposed to the air, and it will accumulate the bits of dirt that are always blowing around. In my experience, silicone lubricants are no worse, and likely better in this respect; indeed, as Jim explained and the WD-40 Specialist silicone product claims:
Quote:
It dries fast and leaves a clear, non-staining film that doesn’t stick or make a mess, so it won’t attract dirt.
There are very few places I use WD-40 without following it up with a more complete cleaning or a different and more suitable lubricant; I don't want it left on anything. I use a silicone lubricant on automotive body seals and in locks.
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Old 01-18-2014, 12:09 PM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeonW View Post
Brian, I wasn't suggesting skipping the chains, safety checks, etc. just trying to understand what effect a WDH would have in all these scenarios.
I understand that; I'm just suggesting not to expect any net benefit of the WD system as a backup in case the primary methods fail.
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Old 01-18-2014, 12:44 PM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
to continue the safety chain discussion, I'm thinking about a set of these
Cables (instead of chains) can certainly work, but my concern with them is that they are not readily adjustable in length, and if they are too long then the trailer's tongue will not be held up or well controlled if they are ever needed. These cables are normally coiled, so they don't drag on the ground, but that can just mask the fact that they are too long.

I noticed that all of the cables in The Trailer Shoppe Safety Chain and Hooks page are 40" (one metre) long, which would be way too long for my trailer and tug... and likely for most rigs. It's not just the Curt brand cables at that retailer: eTrailer lists another brand at the same length (plus a bunch of special-purpose cables that are much shorter or much longer, but need to be for towbar use).

Chains are heavy and can be awkward, but with the wide variety of available hardware they can be easily tailored to the correct length and desired end fittings. Cable is much harder to work with, although easy to use once set up.
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Old 01-18-2014, 01:49 PM   #124
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Cpaharley,
I would rethink the cable idea for several reasons.
Cable swages can give way without warning if you have no testing capability of the wire rope in the swage or under that vinyl coating. You could measure the cable length for stretch however, you also have to measure diameter for stretch and or broken core wire. The vinyl coating prevents this or you have to scrape it off making the protection it afforded useless. Chains you can visually inspect for stretch, flattened links, corrosion, cracks etc and length generally a change of ¼” in length indicates time to replace but it is variable.
Cables are subject to internal corrosion yes even galvanized cable will do to rubbing internally, the vinyl coating will slow it but water will work its way in eventually. Chains corrode but you can visually inspect and either oil or replace when needed.
The vinyl coating will be stiff in cold weather, crack eventually on the radiuses etc. Chain used for this purpose can be galvanized or stainless to prevent corrosion the galvanized coating will wear through after a while but there is not loss of integrity of the chain. Stainless well is EXPEN$IVE!!!!
If you drag a cable you have little to no noise and it will require replacement from a very short drag VS chain.
When cables stretch such as when turning every stretch induces stress on the strands and at the swages thereby, reducing its life expectancy. Without the proper inspection tools and knowledge you run the risk of catastrophic failure if your trailer was to become un- hitched and land on them.
Just my opinion as working in different fields with chains and cable I have seen far more cable break unexpectedly then chain.
If you really want to see what a pain it is to deal with cable use and inspection check here:
http://static.e-publishing.af.mil/production/1/af_se/publication/afi91-203/afi91-203.pdf
Page 739 Is the inspection requirements though only generalized.
Or Here:
http://www.imca-int.com/media/73533/imcam194.pdf
A shorter course on wire rope then the military one :}
http://www.bridon.com/usa/x/downloads/oilfield/BAC_technical.pdf

As for greasing the stabilizers I use screw jack grease similar to this Castrol Tribol 4020/460-2 I say similar as I have forgotten where I picked up the can I have and the label is worn off. It is rated for high heat and low cold along with maintaining its viscosity under compression.
Again just my opinion they make lubricants for specific applications and I generally try to use what is recommended.

Cypher
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Old 01-18-2014, 02:59 PM   #125
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Myron,
Do you recall what length chain you shorten yours to? In your pictures it appears you have about 6 links free?
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Old 01-18-2014, 05:46 PM   #126
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Correct, with the 6th link from the end of Escapes' chain install being connected to the QuickLink thing, which you see is connected right to the hitch.

Because my picture #3 indicates this set up creates a dangerously low cradle for a jumped-off coupler -tube being half an inch to the ground (!) - seems imperative must shorten up that chain slack. I'll know in a few days when I hitch up again what will work best. Will continue using the Escape QuickLink, but will link it up somewhere onto the chain instead of onto the hitch.
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Old 01-18-2014, 07:08 PM   #127
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So what is the length of the chain "in use" if you do not mind? Thanks.
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Old 01-18-2014, 07:32 PM   #128
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Chain is 32½ inches long.
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Old 01-18-2014, 07:37 PM   #129
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So, according to your in use number , you want to shorten it by one link, the ideal length would be around 30" inches? Thanks for measuring, Myron. Stay warm.
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Old 01-18-2014, 07:47 PM   #130
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Wait wait. I may have misunderstood you. The entire chain, end to end, is 32½ inches long. When I hitch up I will slip it through the hitch and attach the end of it back somewhere on the chain using the quickLink connector. Don't know what the "working length, i.e. from hitch to under the tongue, will be until I evaluate the proper slack to allow free turning without binding. Guessing that to likely be more than one, probably 2 to 4 chain links - but we shall see.
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