How many 120v circuits available in power center/converter? - Page 4 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 08-09-2018, 08:43 PM   #31
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I admitted in another thread that I'm a 120v power hog and I'm trying to come up with ways to reduce the problems caused by that. I may be overthinking things but at least you guys & gals are giving me good info & ideas for me to consider. From this thread due to your input I've gone from considering a higher capacity converter to a sub-panel and a selector switch for ac/heater. (A new thought: I wonder if the right thermostat & relay could be the selector - should work.)

As far as a load shedding power management system goes, it would certainly help (I have it in my 40' 5th wheel) but I'll have to blow the main a time or two in the Escape before shelling out that $500US.
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Old 08-09-2018, 08:57 PM   #32
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I admitted in another thread that I'm a 120v power hog and I'm trying to come up with ways to reduce the problems caused by that.
Oo oo oo, I have an idea. Dump some of the power hogging appliances and use propane instead. There are always alternatives to every situation.

I come at this the total opposite way, as I never had anything that needed 120V as the vast majority of my trailer camping was boondocking, and still is. When I got my 2009 Escape 19, I did start bringing along a cube heater, then added a wee electric kettle for when I had hookups. Not that I have a 1500W inverter we added a toaster, a hair dryer for the wife's big head of hair, and even brought along hair trimmers for me when on a long trip to shave my head. The latter two things see little use. The toaster though was something my wife first balked at, but now when we can have toast that is not dried out like stovetop toasters tend to do, she is loving the wee 2-slice toaster.
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Old 08-09-2018, 09:23 PM   #33
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You could just drag the trailer to the COE campground at the Libby dam. Lots of power there.


McGillivray Campground on Lake Koocanusa, Libby, Montana area
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Old 08-09-2018, 11:14 PM   #34
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You could just drag the trailer to the COE campground at the Libby dam. Lots of power there.
Sounds good.
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Old 08-10-2018, 01:12 AM   #35
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Oo oo oo, I have an idea. Dump some of the power hogging appliances and use propane instead. There are always alternatives to every situation.
I do a large portion of my cooking in the oven. My experience over 8+ years in a motorhome (5+ years full time) turned me off of rv propane ovens so that is not a viable alternative for me.

If I can't live my life in the luxury I would like to become accustomed to, at least let me have my appliances to make dinner easier & faster.
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Old 08-10-2018, 08:06 AM   #36
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One useful addition or modification would be to add an interior 120V switch for the water heater. There is a model of the Suburban water heater that has a relay, which combined with the correct interior panel, provides an interior switch for both 12V & 120V operation. I know at least one Escape owner added this - maybe Reace could provide that model & panel. If not, some of us have added a switch in series with the water heater breaker that does the same thing. I did this in my 17 so I didn't have to worry about the electric element coming on while running other appliances & connected to a 15 amp service.

Saves going outside in the rain (it is always raining when you need to go out) to use the switch built into the water heater. Repeated switching of the poor quality switch supplied will eventually cause it to fail, a nasty replacement job...
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Old 08-10-2018, 08:34 AM   #37
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One useful addition or modification would be to add an interior 120V switch for the water heater. There is a model of the Suburban water heater that has a relay, which combined with the correct interior panel, provides an interior switch for both 12V & 120V operation. I know at least one Escape owner added this - maybe Reace could provide that model & panel. If not, some of us have added a switch in series with the water heater breaker that does the same thing. I did this in my 17 so I didn't have to worry about the electric element coming on while running other appliances & connected to a 15 amp service.

Saves going outside in the rain (it is always raining when you need to go out) to use the switch built into the water heater. Repeated switching of the poor quality switch supplied will eventually cause it to fail, a nasty replacement job...
I think tdf-texas Tom was the first to do it. I did it, and Red Dog Fred did too. Here is a thread started by wetzk Ken where all you need is described.
The KIB M1086 Tank monitor came in today
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Old 08-10-2018, 09:59 AM   #38
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One useful addition or modification would be to add an interior 120V switch for the water heater.
A multi-switch panel and relays are on my list of potential things I'd likely be getting for mods. Some labels wouldn't match but I can envision potentially using all these switches controlling various 120 & 12 volt stuff. Feed 12 volts to the panel and use light multi-strand wire to control relays.
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Old 08-10-2018, 11:39 AM   #39
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I don't see the microwave in your list.
It wasn’t labeled. Just threw the breakers and found the microwave is on the same 15A circuit as the fridge and converter.
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