If you could do it again, what would be different?

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Think the problem could be flexing going down the road which eventually loosens the seal .we had to keep going to glass man to reseal . He used what is used for windshield sealing . It would loosen up after awhile . We had our camper and motor home 12 and 11 years . Not trying to tell you what to do . Just sharing experience.

I would think an automotive type caulk would not be the best, and possibly a reason for failing. It cures to be quite hard, with the intention of making the window an integral part of a vehicle's strength. If RV butyl caulking was installed, it would do much better, as it remains flexible for(just about)ever. I know the stuff I cleaned off the 38 year old trailer was still flexible. The only water ingress came mostly through screw holes holding the window in place.

[PGDriver]

Windshields are installed with urethane, this product stays fairly flexible and if the proper preparation is done it becomes structural. I have installed RV window and vents etc. with urethane and no screws or fasteners of any kind.
Butyl tape on the other hand remains temperature sensitive and will reseal every time it gets hot, thus the little bubbles of it that leak out around the window frames in hot weather. Either product if installed properly should never fail. Just saying....

Cheers
Doug

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by PGDriver

Windshields are installed with urethane, this product stays fairly flexible and if the proper preparation is done it becomes structural. I have installed RV window and vents etc. with urethane and no screws or fasteners of any kind.
Butyl tape on the other hand remains temperature sensitive and will reseal every time it gets hot, thus the little bubbles of it that leak out around the window frames in hot weather. Either product if installed properly should never fail. Just saying....

Cheers
Doug

Remember it was black but not hard . Kind of gooey a little . I guess not exactly what was used when they replaced my truck window which is hard .He didn't use any screws or fasteners . Just put the window in a bed of this sealant .

[Jim Bennett]

I always assumed the car windshield caulk hardened, as they never allow me to drive it for a short while, and then say not to be too rough for the next day or so. Could be just that some of the solvents first have to gas off first.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

I always assumed the car windshield caulk hardened, as they never allow me to drive it for a short while, and then say not to be too rough for the next day or so. Could be just that some of the solvents first have to gas off first.

True Jim that is what we were told and it was suppose to be a permanent fix . I think back now and it wasn't like what was used on my truck . It did stay somewhat flexible and needed to be scraped off . All we remember never want a window above my head again because of our experience. And it was cold . The front window on our Escape is at the dinette and lower and we don't sleep there. After all said and done everyone needs to do what makes them happy . We were just sharing our experiences .

[GerriJ]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Okay, it's your trailer your decision. But unless you want to get on your hands and knees and look outside, that front window won't do you much. During the day, looking at the front window.. you'll be looking at the sky.. not your tug or the road in front.

When Scamp first built their "5ver" it came standard with a front non-opening window in the loft. Five years later a BUNCH of folks that complained at leaks on the bed, they made the front window an option... sometime early 20?? they changed the mold to no longer accept a front window. WHY? In a driving rain the nose under tow... water just finds it's way inside! Even monster stickbuilt 5ers don't have front nose windows (okay, I've seen a few, but they have a fiberglass nose cone that wraps around the entire front end). I miss the front window, it's in my Scamp, but water intrution and some of the horror stories I've read over the years makes me glad Ten Forward is "slick" on the nose. YMMV

Years ago, prior to ETI building even the first 5.0... I thought a Scamp 5er deluxe was in my future. What I really didn't like was sleeping side-to-side with my head in one window and feet in the other. With the ETI standard build my head and feet aren't in a window... you're planning with your head right there... in a window.

Agree, prior to owning a Bigfoot Camper and now the Escape 5.0 we had a number of other campers, all with front windows. They leaked big time. In those days the bed was east/west so guess who had his back(side) up against the cold glass. I wouldn't want a front window. I'm all for minimizing the number of holes that are cut into the fiberglass.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

I always assumed the car windshield caulk hardened, as they never allow me to drive it for a short while, and then say not to be too rough for the next day or so. Could be just that some of the solvents first have to gas off first.

The urethane adhesive currently used to bond windshields into cars needs to cure (which could mean evaporating solvents, but not necessarily), which doesn't mean it becomes hard. Although this is not silicone, think of silicone sealants that cure to a still-flexible but no longer liquid state. Older cars had windshields which were not bonded into the structure - they would have used a different sealant, and depend on a mechanical retaining method (as our trailer windows do). Neither type of windshield sealant is normally used for RV windows (putty with butyl for elasticity is common), although polymer adhesive/sealants (such as the Sikaflex products) are sometimes used this way.

[kvermeulen]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

The urethane adhesive currently used to bond windshields into cars needs to cure (which could mean evaporating solvents, but not necessarily), which doesn't mean it becomes hard. Although this is not silicone, think of silicone sealants that cure to a still-flexible but no longer liquid state. Older cars had windshields which were not bonded into the structure - they would have used a different sealant, and depend on a mechanical retaining method (as our trailer windows do). Neither type of windshield sealant is normally used for RV windows (putty with butyl for elasticity is common), although polymer adhesive/sealants (such as the Sikaflex products) are sometimes used this way.

For all that have a front window in your escape travel trailers, have you been having any leakage problems.

thanks for ur reply.

ken

[gbaglo]

I have an opening front window ( no longer available) which is protected by a rock guard. The rock guard helps keep water out when traveling and serves as an awning at camp so we can have the front window open in the rain. Unfortunately the manufacturer of the window/rock guard discontinued it.

[oldclimber]

Wish the manufacturer still provided these for ETI--looks like a great window.
G

[rbryan4]

I would love an opening front window. I'd love it even more if it was double glazed. We intend to use the shrinking plastic film on the inside of the window when we are camping in the shoulder seasons in order to reduce condensation. Its just a thin film, but it really works.

[Josh.W]

Originally Posted by padlin

Opening loft windows instead of the double pane. Replace the holding tank sensors. Still undecided about the spray foam, if I ever have to work on anything down there I'll update this post.

Thanks for mentioning this Padlin. It's been one of the things that's been bothering Sonya and me about the choices to make with the 5.0TA. We're not happy with the idea of non-opening windows in the loft, but at the same time, we really wanted to go double pane for insulation (both for heating and cooling).

I wrote to Escape about this, asking if there was any way to fit a larger window on the sides, like the ones used in the rear section of the trailer, or even a large, openable window in the front. Unfortunately, the reply was that because of placement of the overhead cabinets, it wasn't possible to put in larger or additional windows, so it's double pane solid, or single pane with a slide.

I'm thinking that the only way to resolve the issue during extremes of temperature is perhaps to go with the single pane windows, and then rig up something with Velcro so we can put up panels of insulating, reflecting bubble-pack material to cover the windows when necessary.

Anyone have a better idea? Crystal (customer service), with whom I've had a lot of helpful exchanges, assures me that we would still get plenty of ventilation through the roof hatch and the Maxifan, but I still feel better about the cross-ventilation possible with windows that can open.

Thanks,
Josh and Sonya Wilkenfeld

[Josh.W]

Does anyone know of a 5.0TA currently within striking distance of Yuma (where we live) or Phoenix (where I work) AZ? Sonya and I are seriously considering one, but we'd really like to see one in person. Have spoken with and corresponded a lot with Alf (he should be made "Honorary Spokesperson" for Escape), but we'd really like to see one in person.

Between the Escape website and lots of photos Alf has been willing to share with us, we know what one looks like, but we'd really like to see one. I'm considering going up to visit the plant, but would sure like to see one down on this side of the border, if that's possible. Alf and his wife are in Florida now, but that's a long way to go (and Sonya and I had our share of Florida summertime mosquitoes many years ago).

Thanks,
Josh and Sonya

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I have an opening front window ( no longer available) which is protected by a rock guard. The rock guard helps keep water out when traveling and serves as an awning at camp so we can have the front window open in the rain. Unfortunately the manufacturer of the window/rock guard discontinued it.

I have this window too. It is nice that it is dual glazed, but with all the other windows that open, we hardly use this one for ventilation. Mine was just about the last trailer that got this window, as stock ran out.

[amirie]

we originally had the front opening window in our 17B (bought used) and it leaked from the very first drive home in the pouring rain...Eventually we got a new non opening window and knowing us and our luck at camping in the pouring rain--it is much better!!

Because that window didn't open and wanting ventilation at that end of the trailer we exchanged our original front side windows for opening ones...

[gbaglo]

Mine hasn't leaked.
Also, it occurred to me that I can open it ( with the rock guard down ), run my fan, and ventilate the trailer during winter storage in my driveway, and nobody is the wiser.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by Josh.W

Does anyone know of a 5.0TA currently within striking distance of Yuma (where we live) or Phoenix (where I work) AZ? Sonya and I are seriously considering one, but we'd really like to see one in person.

Ginger (2015 5.0TA) is on her way to Quartzsite right now. She'll be at Dome Rock for the rally. Anne is there in her 17' and I don't know how many others. I do know there's right at 100 all molded towables camping and having fun!

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

Mine hasn't leaked.
Also, it occurred to me that I can open it ( with the rock guard down ), run my fan, and ventilate the trailer during winter storage in my driveway, and nobody is the wiser.

I haven't had a leak either. Reace did put a plastic strip at the bottom of the rock guard that stops water ingress from below when driving.

[kvermeulen]

Originally Posted by Josh.W

Thanks for mentioning this Padlin. It's been one of the things that's been bothering Sonya and me about the choices to make with the 5.0TA. We're not happy with the idea of non-opening windows in the loft, but at the same time, we really wanted to go double pane for insulation (both for heating and cooling).

I wrote to Escape about this, asking if there was any way to fit a larger window on the sides, like the ones used in the rear section of the trailer, or even a large, openable window in the front. Unfortunately, the reply was that because of placement of the overhead cabinets, it wasn't possible to put in larger or additional windows, so it's double pane solid, or single pane with a slide.

I'm thinking that the only way to resolve the issue during extremes of temperature is perhaps to go with the single pane windows, and then rig up something with Velcro so we can put up panels of insulating, reflecting bubble-pack material to cover the windows when necessary.

Anyone have a better idea? Crystal (customer service), with whom I've had a lot of helpful exchanges, assures me that we would still get plenty of ventilation through the roof hatch and the Maxifan, but I still feel better about the cross-ventilation possible with windows that can open.

Thanks,
Josh and Sonya Wilkenfeld

We had opening non double glaze in loft of 5.0sa and they were not untoward when in colder weather.

ken

[techfan]

Originally Posted by kvermeulen

We had opening non double glaze in loft of 5.0sa and they were not untoward when in colder weather.

ken

I have shown in the thermal pictures I have posted that the frame, not the glass, is the biggest culprit in thermal transfer. It is much easier to add some insulation to an opening window than to increase ventilation with the fixed windows.