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Old 03-31-2015, 10:12 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Wow, that's close... like it was made for the garage (which, of course, it was )

Adding spacers to move the jack up (or changing it out for one which sits higher) adds clearance to install the wheel, but it also limits the height the tongue can be lifted to, and causes tailgate/hatch interference for some tow vehicles. A clever alternative which I read about in a FiberglassRV forum discussion is the Ultimate Jack. The body slides vertically and can be pinned at various heights, to suit the requirements of the moment. I haven't personally tried it, but if well made it could be a good solution is the conventional jack doesn't quite work for someone's situation.
Looks really good. Will have to see if it clears everything on 21' with the Silverado.
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Old 03-31-2015, 11:31 AM   #22
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The ultimate jack is nice, but may not work with the Escape since it is top wind and you may have clearance issues with the propane tank in the lower position. Measure first.
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Old 03-31-2015, 12:08 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
The ultimate jack is nice, but may not work with the Escape since it is top wind and you may have clearance issues with the propane tank in the lower position. Measure first.
You are correct, won't work on 21. Is right against propane cover.
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Old 03-31-2015, 12:22 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
...Adding spacers to move the jack up (or changing it out for one which sits higher) adds clearance to install the wheel, but it also limits the height the tongue can be lifted to, and causes tailgate/hatch interference for some tow vehicles...
Now if I was wanting to add a wheel to my jack and did not have sufficient clearance to put it on, I would consider putting the wheel on semi-permanently (using a pin or bolt through the jack shaft). I would then measure the distance that the wheel will extend to below the bottom of the existing jack shaft, and would add spacers to the top of the jack (as described previously in this thread) to raise the entire jack assembly an amount equal to that distance. The end-result would be no loss in jack travel from the original amount, but will do nothing to resolve (and could worsen) any tailgate clearance issues.

Of course, I do not have any need or desire to add a wheel to my jack, so this is unlikely to be done by me.
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Old 03-31-2015, 04:46 PM   #25
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Could also just cut the amount req'd off the bottom of the tube. Wouldn't seem to make sense to me to buy another one when the present one can be used.

Ron
Cutting is not as straight forward, because I will need to re-drill the holes on the tube that are used to pin the wheel.

The trailer is really low clearance. We can't even keep the jack base foot plate installed when towing due to its interference with the safety chains. No way we can keep the wheel attached full time.

Just when I thought a dolly from Harbor Freight can solve our problem, I realize that we do want the option to use the hitch wheel at the campsite. We had visited a couple of campgrounds where we turned the trailer(our old popup) around for better hookup/view point. Addressing the jack is probably more versatile, unless I want to bring the dolly with us everywhere we go.
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Old 03-31-2015, 04:57 PM   #26
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This has gotten a following among Casita folks:
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Old 03-31-2015, 05:44 PM   #27
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With previous trailers I thought a wheel on the jack was a standard, indispensable aid to fine-tune maneuvering the trailer after De-hitching. Taking delivery of the 19 I got really miffed when their shop wheel came off and went back to the factory leaving me with no way to pivot the trailer.

Reading my rant, Fran, nearby, not needing hers, gave me one, free. I remain most thankful for that. I subsequently found, however, that leaving the swivel wheel attached when towing put the jack too close to the pavement. If ever De-hitched in transit (yes it happened to me) the tongue cup could not nest in the safety chains. That means the swivel wheel is now in control of the trailer while the tow driver is gathering his/her wits and slowing down.

Seems like a recipe for a tragic flip-over. I now keep my swivel wheel stored in the tongue box, available to slip on after parking, if ever needed. It never has been needed.

I should mention the 19 is just too much trailer for me to manually nudge over, anyway. And, my new tow has this great little video camera in its tail gate.
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Old 03-31-2015, 06:04 PM   #28
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Myron,

It doesn't appear your coupler would catch in the chains even with the wheel off...I concur that the wheel should come off when traveling, but perhaps your chains could also be shortened?
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Old 03-31-2015, 06:11 PM   #29
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Could be. The thing is, once De-coupled the trailer is now pulled only by the chains, stretching them taught, raising the nest. Shorting by another link might be ok but then reduces your turning freedom left and right. Also, if too short that eliminates needed slack for using a Clovis hook.
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Old 03-31-2015, 08:13 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akoaoka View Post
Cutting is not as straight forward, because I will need to re-drill the holes on the tube that are used to pin the wheel.

The trailer is really low clearance. We can't even keep the jack base foot plate installed when towing due to its interference with the safety chains. No way we can keep the wheel attached full time.

Just when I thought a dolly from Harbor Freight can solve our problem, I realize that we do want the option to use the hitch wheel at the campsite. We had visited a couple of campgrounds where we turned the trailer(our old popup) around for better hookup/view point. Addressing the jack is probably more versatile, unless I want to bring the dolly with us everywhere we go.
All problems usually have a solution. The first step is understanding the problem and for this some data is required. The number in inches that the bottom of the tube would have to have removed or the height that the spacers would need to be has to be measured. Give us some idea of what that amount is.

The tube is easy to remove, shorten and drill a new hole for the pin. I never travel with the wheel attached. I pull the pin and put the wheel in the box.

I'm sure there's enough help on the forum to work out a solution. Don't worry about a dolly, they have some drawbacks also. Also, I'd rather pull my trailer uphill with a rope around my waist to the back bumper than push it uphill with a dolly. (Actually I cheated and made a power dolly because pushing or pulling is too much like work)

Ron
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