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Old 04-04-2015, 09:24 PM   #51
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I read and understand the suggested procedure, just not going to employ it, because I'm not confident in the "jacks".
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Old 04-05-2015, 08:52 AM   #52
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I have had to do just this a few times. My drive is sloped enough, that I put every bit of blocking under the jack as I can, and it will just level out cranked right up. If I drop it off with my F-350, then try to hook up with the Pilot, with the ball on the Pilot being about 1" higher, I can't quite get under. I have put the front stabilizers down, and raised the jack up enough to slip another chunk of 2x underneath, and then I can raise it up high enough. With something as light as our Escapes, I am not worried with this bit of a static load temporarily on the stabilizers. I would never leave it like that for more than the time to make the adjustments needed though.

Another method I have used with trailers, some of which did not even have front stabilizers, is to just put blocks under the tongue, raise the jack, and add more under it to get the height needed. I have done this a few hundred times over the years. Works great.
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Old 04-10-2015, 08:16 PM   #53
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Ok here it is. This is taken at the time we are about to switch to the hitch wheel (Which is after we used the tow vehicle to back the trailer into the garage and now ready for fine tuning of the storage position.)



It looks to me the tongue jack has to be retracted way into the tongue for us to put the wheel on.

We are still using a pair of jack stands at home so we can install the hitch wheel after raising and lowering the tongue a couple times. We don't yet have a solution for use at campsite, because we haven't had the need to move the trailer yet.

Not an urgent issue but a very nice save of time if we could figure it out!
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Old 04-10-2015, 09:09 PM   #54
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You will have to replace the tongue jack with a shorter one if you want to use that wheel. There are other wheels also Trailer Hitches & Vehicle Accessories (800)298-8924
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Old 04-10-2015, 10:29 PM   #55
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You could unhitch your tow vehicle, jack the trailer up a few inches higher than shown in your picture, put a wooden block under the frame near the jack location, retract the jack, and then attach the hitch wheel, jack up the front of the trailer again, remove the block, and lower jack as desired. Repeat the process in reverse to remove the wheel.

If you choose to live dangerously, use the front stabilizers on your trailer instead of the wooden block.
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Old 04-10-2015, 10:54 PM   #56
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After now seeing a photo of the situation, I hate to sound like an nag , but I stand by my first advice.

It looks like the bottom of the jack tube needs to be about 3" higher. Undo the 3 bolts holding the jack on, put 3 spacer tubes in place and use longer bolts to hold the jack on. Most building supply stores sell black iron nipples in assorted lengths so no cutting or other work is required. Unless there would be some interaction with other items such as a tailgate that's what I'd do.

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Old 04-10-2015, 10:55 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ice-breaker View Post
You could unhitch your tow vehicle, jack the trailer up a few inches higher than shown in your picture, put a wooden block under the frame near the jack location, retract the jack, and then attach the hitch wheel, jack up the front of the trailer again, remove the block, and lower jack as desired. Repeat the process in reverse to remove the wheel.
This is what we have been doing at home, sort of. We used a pair of jack stands. It works great...

Quote:
Originally Posted by ice-breaker View Post
If you choose to live dangerously, use the front stabilizers on your trailer instead of the wooden block.
I was just thinking about that. With a full storage box and a propane tank, do you think the trailer will take a "nose dive"?
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Old 04-10-2015, 11:07 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
It looks like the bottom of the jack tube needs to be about 3" higher.
Ron
That makes me wonder. We ordered the trailer with lower axle and smaller tires so we max out the chance of fitting in into the garage. The lower axle gives us 1", the smaller tire gives us 1/2". This means the frame is only lowered by about 1.5" -- doesn't sound like there's enough room to put the wheel on even before the modifications. Does anyone out there with a standard 17' and be able to use the hitch wheel??
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Old 04-10-2015, 11:07 PM   #59
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Quote:
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...I was just thinking about that. With a full storage box and a propane tank, do you think the trailer will take a "nose dive"?
No danger whatsoever of a nose dive. The trailer center of gravity is too far back for that to happen. Have used this trick several times to add more blocks under the jack in order to lift the front of the trailer higher on a sloping site. Some on this site have concerns that the front stabilizers may not support the weight of the front of the trailer, but that is not my experience.
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Old 04-10-2015, 11:16 PM   #60
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If you do decide to use the stabilizers to attach the jack wheel, make sure you have the tires ( both sides ) chocked front and back. I had my trailer decide to re-orient itself once last year on what appeared to be a totally level site.
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