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Old 03-21-2019, 08:35 AM   #1
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Leaky black water tank under bed

Anybody have problems with leakage from the three inch pipe that connects to the black water tank under the bed. We just discovered with our 2017, 21 foot that we purchased in May 2017, we are having this problem. We are in process of contacting Escape about it. I'm sure they will be good to help us.
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Old 03-21-2019, 06:17 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by The Quilting Lady View Post
Anybody have problems with leakage from the three inch pipe that connects to the black water tank under the bed. We just discovered with our 2017, 21 foot that we purchased in May 2017, we are having this problem. We are in process of contacting Escape about it. I'm sure they will be good to help us.
I had a leak at the black tank/pipe junction my first few months of ownership, which I discovered 3 days before leaving on a 4 month trip. Escape sent me a package of repair parts and said they would pay for a plumber to install them - but there was no way for us to wait until the parts arrived and a plumber to do the work. The solution for me was to make my own repair.

To start, I removed all the wood bed slats over the tank and pipe for easy access. Then I assembled the repair parts from my various tool boxes. In the first photo you will see black "tape" putty, stretchy silicone tape, and a high-quality hose clamp. After cleaning and drying the leak I forced a bead of putty into the joint (photo 2). Then wrapped with a couple of turns of stretchy tape (photo 3). Finally, installed the hose clamp over the first two layers for good measure (photo 4).

This has held up for 3+ years and I trust it will last a good long time. But I still have the box of repair parts "just in case".
--
Alan
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 0_parts.jpg (262.3 KB, 48 views)
File Type: jpg 1_before.jpg (223.1 KB, 48 views)
File Type: jpg 2_putty.jpg (223.8 KB, 42 views)
File Type: jpg 3_taped.jpg (212.3 KB, 42 views)
File Type: jpg 4_hose_clamp.jpg (235.0 KB, 41 views)
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Old 03-21-2019, 07:12 PM   #3
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Since this tank involves unpressurized contents, a simple fix shown should suffice since gravity is the only item that needs to be channeled.
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Old 03-21-2019, 11:54 PM   #4
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...gravity is the only item that needs to be channeled.
That must be that black lumpy gravity.
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Old 03-29-2019, 11:02 PM   #5
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Escape video Leaky Black Tank

https://youtu.be/q6k_2SgArds

Another Escape Video
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http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...ape-12918.html
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Old 03-30-2019, 08:26 AM   #6
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I wonder why the black tank video is being produced, I do not like the idea of trying to fix mine after it is put into use nor have I heard of but only two owners having an issue. Hoping for the best......
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Old 03-30-2019, 08:34 AM   #7
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I’m sure they have this figured out and corrected on the trailers coming off the line now. This fix doesn’t look so bad on the bench but under the bed platform is another story. Half the job is probably clearing a way to do the work.
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Old 03-30-2019, 04:01 PM   #8
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I wonder why the black tank video is being produced, I do not like the idea of trying to fix mine after it is put into use nor have I heard of but only two owners having an issue.
Since Reace went to the trouble of working out a solution and making the video, it seems unlikely that there have been only two failures. The 21' is a popular model, so even if only a few percent of them built over a few months have a problem, that's more than a couple of trailers.

This is essentially what the automotive industry would call a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB), in video form. A TSB is part of a normal response by a competent and responsible manufacturer to the identification of a repeated problem found in vehicles after they have reached customers.

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I’m sure they have this figured out and corrected on the trailers coming off the line now.
Since it was just an improperly sealed joint, I'm sure it has been resolved. On the other hand, at least one of the flexible couplings used in the repair would likely be a good component to use from the beginning, to relieve bending stress on that joint due to relative motion as everything bumps and twists down the road.

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Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
This fix doesn’t look so bad on the bench but under the bed platform is another story. Half the job is probably clearing a way to do the work.
Thus Reace's comments about removing as much length of the original pipe as possible, to provide working room.

An alternative might be to make one cut in the ABS piping near the tank but the second cut further away from the tank, on the other side of the elbow, providing much more working room. The end result would have one rubber coupling near the tank and the second rubber coupling between the elbows, rather than both couplings jammed against each other by the tank. This could be done with the same parts provided by ETI in the repair kit.

Reace explains the need to keep the sealant off the area of the first ABS fitting to be glued; I would consider masking off that area with tape while working with the sealant, to be safe.

I find one thing about the assembly of this plumbing interesting: I've never heard of a caulk-like product like that (either the original which Alan showed, or the white product which Reace shows in the repair) being used as pipe thread sealant. I would have more faith in a sealant intended for this purpose; it is a normal threaded plumbing joint, so any sealant intended for pipe threads and compatible with both materials (ABS and whatever the tank fitting is, perhaps HDPE) should be suitable. I wonder if the original problem was that joints were not being adequately tightened, due to interference by the type of sealant used?
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Old 03-30-2019, 10:08 PM   #9
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...
I find one thing about the assembly of this plumbing interesting: I've never heard of a caulk-like product like that (either the original which Alan showed, or the white product which Reace shows in the repair) being used as pipe thread sealant. I would have more faith in a sealant intended for this purpose;
...
To elaborate a bit on the sealant I used...
It is not intended to be used on threads or in the pipe joint, rather, to be applied on the outside of the pipe. I used it because I had some handy (no time to do a proper repair) and because it was easily molded to the gap that was leaking. The red stretchy tape must be used otherwise the sealant would probably just fall off. Neither the sealant nor the tape have any adhesive qualities.

Normally this stuff is used to keep moisture from moving inwards. I took a gamble that it would keep moisture from moving outwards. Seems to be working after 3 years.

--
Alan
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File Type: jpg coax-seal.jpg (80.9 KB, 18 views)
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Old 03-31-2019, 12:31 AM   #10
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To elaborate a bit on the sealant I used...
It is not intended to be used on threads or in the pipe joint, rather, to be applied on the outside of the pipe. I used it because I had some handy (no time to do a proper repair) and because it was easily molded to the gap that was leaking. The red stretchy tape must be used otherwise the sealant would probably just fall off. Neither the sealant nor the tape have any adhesive qualities.
That makes sense, for the purpose that it was used.

What puzzles me is using a caulk within and around a tapered pipe thread, which should have no problem sealing properly with the normal thread sealant and nothing around the joint.
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