Lesson Learned .. Stow the Table ... - Page 3 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 08-20-2016, 01:54 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Losangeles View Post
Yikes!!! :

Sorry you had to swerve. Or whatever you had to do

And

We are getting the Springfield pedistal

Your post makes me think that it might be wise to have the dinette in BED mode when towing.

Just because of physics.

And just because we can.

?



The embarrassing thing was that stowing table was on my checklist

The Springfield and a re-do of the table/dinette were already on my list
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Old 08-20-2016, 06:53 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by C&G in FL View Post
And, as promised, my bathroom door security strap photos.

One picture shows a standard snap fastener at the top of the door. It is high enough up to be screwed into the framing inside the door and it sits atop a slightly larger washer.

Another picture shows the strap as it dangles, in the way of nothing and pretty much out of sight when it is not in use for traveling. It is 1-inch nylon and is secured with a screw (vertical) going up into the framing at the top of the door frame.

The other picture shows the strap snapped onto the door as it wood be for traveling.

For the record, Monty (the moose) supervised the installation!
Where did you find the snap strap used to secure the door? Looks like a great solution to an issue I've been wanting to address.
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Old 08-20-2016, 10:38 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Zardoz View Post
Where did you find the snap strap used to secure the door? Looks like a great solution to an issue I've been wanting to address.
I made it myself. Basically, you need four things, two you probably already have, scissors and a flame source to "melt" the ends of the strap after you cut it to keep it from fraying, the same as you would nylon rope. The other two items are a snap kit, which is relatively inexpensive and the strap itself. I know Ace Hardware carries both, but other hardware stores would also. And you also need a hammer to install the snap. Very easy, you will be a pro the first time! I installed the snap on the door first, made the strap, snapped it together, and the figgured how long the strap had to be to allow about 1/4-inch of slack. I then cut it and mounted the strap to the doorframe.
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Old 08-20-2016, 08:26 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by C&G in FL View Post
I made it myself. Basically, you need four things, two you probably already have, scissors and a flame source to "melt" the ends of the strap after you cut it to keep it from fraying, the same as you would nylon rope. The other two items are a snap kit, which is relatively inexpensive and the strap itself. I know Ace Hardware carries both, but other hardware stores would also. And you also need a hammer to install the snap. Very easy, you will be a pro the first time! I installed the snap on the door first, made the strap, snapped it together, and the figgured how long the strap had to be to allow about 1/4-inch of slack. I then cut it and mounted the strap to the doorframe.
You're right, Carl; I have 2 outta 4 on hand and will pick up the other 2 asap. Thanks for being a problem solver!
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Old 08-23-2016, 02:20 PM   #25
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On seeing this thread with pictures of table damage and solutions, I looked at our table supports and found they were definitely sloppier than when we got our trailer 15 months ago. So I installed two low profile footman loops and looped a strap around the front pedestal several times to keep it steady. The strap had hooks at either end for tying down loads. I removed the hooks and put the footman loops through there before screwing down. Last year I put a bunk securing latch on the underside of the table to keep it from sliding during travel.

If we go down extremely rough roads (as Iím sure we will) I will lower the table and stow the pedestals. As someone pointed out, there is a lot of force on things in the trailer as in bounces around. We already travel with straps across our fridge and freezer doors, anchored to footman loops on either side. Got the ideas on this forum, yesiree!

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