operating new 6.7 Dometic off solar and dual 6 volts - Escape Trailer Owners Community

Go Back   Escape Trailer Owners Community > Escape Me | General Topics > General Escape
Click Here to Login
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 06-28-2013, 11:18 AM   #1
Site Team
 
cpaharley2008's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Chilliwack, British Columbia
Trailer: Escape#4, 2019 Escape21 DejaView pulled by 2014 Ram Hemi/8sp
Posts: 19,779
operating new 6.7 Dometic off solar and dual 6 volts

I'm trying to decide on which battery set up with the factory solar and new Dometic 6.7 refer which draws around 15 a/h while in the 12v mode. Towing in daylight means a net loss of about 8 a/h over my solar replenishment. Which over a 6 hour solar day means about a 50 a/h draw down at 100% operation and 25 a/h with 50% cooling operation. I'm disregarding any tow vehicle supply as I'm not sure what if any I send back to the trailer.
At nighttime I lose the solar and over 8 hours 120 a/h draw or 60 a/h @ 50% operation.

I'm thinking I will need the dual 6 v for a reserve of approximately 90 a/h to operate the refer in 12v either day or night? Anyone have experience with this? Since I'll have to use a w/d hitch with my FJ, the extra 60 lbs of the 6v set up will be moot.
__________________

__________________
Jim
"Never in doubt,..... often wrong!"
cpaharley2008 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2013, 11:34 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Kelowna, British Columbia
Trailer: 2008 Escape 17b
Posts: 1,890
Jim, why would you rather use your battery for your refer instead of propane? I would imagine you'll have the dual propane package so it's doubtful you would run out. Does the 6.7 refer draw a lot of propane?
__________________

J Mac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2013, 11:41 AM   #3
Site Team
 
cpaharley2008's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Chilliwack, British Columbia
Trailer: Escape#4, 2019 Escape21 DejaView pulled by 2014 Ram Hemi/8sp
Posts: 19,779
I use propane now but I'd like the option, if needed to operate off 12v, maybe during daytime driving and switch to propane for night time, cut back my chance of error by 50%. When I tow, I never turn off the motor, even over a recent 23 hour trip to Nebraska. There were 8 fuel/rest stops and each time I'm leery of the propane and gas fumes. The reason I do not turn off the motor is less chance of being stranded while en route.
__________________
Jim
"Never in doubt,..... often wrong!"
cpaharley2008 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2013, 01:21 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
santacruzer's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Santa Cruz, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19
Posts: 754
If you're running the reefer on 12v while towing, why are you concerned about propane and gas fumes? Shouldn't be any open flame in the reefer compartment.

My Toyota dealer told me with the heavy duty alternator and beefier battery as part of the tow package, I should be delivering ample additional power back to the trailer. That said, I'm still toying with the idea of installing an old-fashioned ammeter.
__________________
2009 Tacoma Crew Cab, TRD 4WD
2007 Tundra Double Cab TRD 4WD
2014 Escape 19
2007 Norwegian Elkhound "Baxter"
santacruzer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2013, 02:17 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Jim Bennett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 14,234
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
The reason I do not turn off the motor is less chance of being stranded while en route.
Curious as to why you think you have less chance to be stranded. Is your tow known for not starting? And, do not fill stations require it to shut down any source of ignition while refueling?
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
Jim Bennett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2013, 04:46 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: N/A, Indiana
Trailer: Escape
Posts: 980
Check the TV 7 way wiring connector. When the ignition switch is off there should not be 12 v between blade #4 and blade #1. Your TV battery will not be depleted if there is no voltage with the ignition off. Trailer Wiring Diagrams | etrailer.com ( scroll down to see the 7way TV diagram)
You should have 12 v with the ignition on, higher voltage with the engine running (alternator charging) and no voltage with the ignition off. Toyota uses a battery and charging voltage shut off relay in the vehicles they produce with a tow package. Otherwise a relay needs to be installed in the elect circuit that supplies voltage to blade #4.
__________________
"Never argue with an idiot. They only bring you down to their level and beat you with experience." George Carlin
Jubal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2013, 05:49 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 11,974
Here's Jim's first post, with the units of measure corrected to what I believe he intended. The changed text is shown in bold:
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I'm trying to decide on which battery set up with the factory solar and new Dometic 6.7 refer which draws around 15 A while in the 12v mode. Towing in daylight means a net loss of about 8 A-h over my solar replenishment. Which over a 6 hour solar day means about a 50 A-h draw down at 100% operation and 25 A-h with 50% cooling operation. I'm disregarding any tow vehicle supply as I'm not sure what if any I send back to the trailer.
At nighttime I lose the solar and over 8 hours 120 A-h draw or 60 A-h @ 50% operation.

I'm thinking I will need the dual 6 v for a reserve of approximately 90 A-h to operate the refer in 12v either day or night? Anyone have experience with this? Since I'll have to use a w/d hitch with my FJ, the extra 60 lbs of the 6v set up will be moot.
Generally, I replaced "a/h" (which would mean "amps per hour", which is nonsensical) with "A-h" (amp-hour); however, the first value shown as "a/h" becomes "A", for "amps".

I understand the idea of using a 6-hour "solar" day for the energy produced by the solar panel, but for the consumption of the refrigerator all 24 hours of the day need to be accounted for, so shouldn't it be
24 hours x 15 amps = 230 amp-hours total consumption at 100% duty cycle
_or
24 hours x 15 amps x 0.50 = 115 amp-hours total consumption at 50% duty cycle
6 hours x 8 amps ~= 50 amp-hours total supply (disregarding tow vehicle)
for 115 - 50 = 90 amp-hours net loss per day at 50% duty cycle?
Jim, in your calculations you total 75 A-h/day of shortfall, and suggest a 90 A-h battery capacity to cover this. It looks more like 90 A-h/day of shortfall, and thus much more than that to cover it without excessively discharging the batteries.

Whatever the exact value, my understanding is that this is just for a day of operating a propane/electric refrigerator always on DC power, such as for the Nebraska trip.
Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2013, 06:22 PM   #8
Site Team
 
cpaharley2008's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Chilliwack, British Columbia
Trailer: Escape#4, 2019 Escape21 DejaView pulled by 2014 Ram Hemi/8sp
Posts: 19,779
Yes, Brian we are thinking along the same lines. I did not do the 24 hour calculation as at night I would have to operate off propane, thus I was trying to obtain a day/solar/battery and night/battery/propane scale. Just wondering if other members used solar and 12v for this refer set up and their results.
__________________
Jim
"Never in doubt,..... often wrong!"
cpaharley2008 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2013, 11:42 PM   #9
Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 582
Quote:
Originally Posted by santacruzer View Post
If you're running the reefer on 12v while towing, why are you concerned about propane and gas fumes? Shouldn't be any open flame in the reefer compartment.

My Toyota dealer told me with the heavy duty alternator and beefier battery as part of the tow package, I should be delivering ample additional power back to the trailer. That said, I'm still toying with the idea of installing an old-fashioned ammeter.
Might check into a Scan Gauge or the Less Expensive Ultra Gauge can tell you a lot more then ammeter.

Cypher
Cypherian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2013, 12:29 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 11,974
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cypherian View Post
Might check into a Scan Gauge or the Less Expensive Ultra Gauge can tell you a lot more then ammeter.
It tells you lots about what is going on in the vehicle, but I would be very surprised if the current flowing to the trailer connection is one of the data items.
Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2013, 01:09 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
santacruzer's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Santa Cruz, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19
Posts: 754
I have a Scan Gauge installed, but I've become so accustomed to just using it for fuel efficiency, rpm, and speed that the thought never even crossed my mind! Maybe it wouldn't show trailer current directly, but I think it shows voltage output from the alternator. Gotta dredge up the instruction book!!
__________________
2009 Tacoma Crew Cab, TRD 4WD
2007 Tundra Double Cab TRD 4WD
2014 Escape 19
2007 Norwegian Elkhound "Baxter"
santacruzer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2013, 05:08 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Vermilye's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oswego, New York
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21, 2018 Ford F150
Posts: 3,488
Quote:
Originally Posted by santacruzer View Post
I have a Scan Gauge installed, but I've become so accustomed to just using it for fuel efficiency, rpm, and speed that the thought never even crossed my mind! Maybe it wouldn't show trailer current directly, but I think it shows voltage output from the alternator. Gotta dredge up the instruction book!!
I use one and while it does show voltage, I have not found the settings for amperage. I did finally get the settings for transmission temperature for my 2010 RAV4.
__________________
Jon Vermilye My Travel Blog
Travel and Photo Web Page ... My Collection of RV Blogs 2018 F150 3.5EB, 2017 21
Vermilye is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2013, 09:05 PM   #13
Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 582
Quote:
Originally Posted by santacruzer View Post
I have a Scan Gauge installed, but I've become so accustomed to just using it for fuel efficiency, rpm, and speed that the thought never even crossed my mind! Maybe it wouldn't show trailer current directly, but I think it shows voltage output from the alternator. Gotta dredge up the instruction book!!
I believe it will show battery voltage, which if above 12 volts shows the alternator is putting out power. Don't think there is an amp setting but you can email the company and ask.

Cypher
Cypherian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2013, 05:02 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
santacruzer's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Santa Cruz, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19
Posts: 754
I spent yesterday afternoon playing with the Scan Gauge, re-reading the manual, and hitting their web site. Getting battery voltage is easy, it's a standard function. I was also interested in transmission temperature, however, but it turns out I need a minor software upgrade before I can get that. I HAVE had the Scan Gauge quite a while!

Could find no amperage settings, even under the X-Gauge function, except for the Prius line.

The Scan Gauge is a great little gadget, I'm glad I got prompted to revisit its utility. I believe there's an App for the iPhone that does much the same, anyone have any experience with it?
__________________
2009 Tacoma Crew Cab, TRD 4WD
2007 Tundra Double Cab TRD 4WD
2014 Escape 19
2007 Norwegian Elkhound "Baxter"
santacruzer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2013, 05:11 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 11,974
Quote:
Originally Posted by santacruzer View Post
Could find no amperage settings, even under the X-Gauge function, except for the Prius line.
That makes sense to me, because current between the components of the hybrid drive system is important. I doubt there are any currents in a normal vehicle which justify a shunt or a Hall effect transducer, and even if there were the current to the trailer connector would not likely be among them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by santacruzer View Post
The Scan Gauge is a great little gadget, I'm glad I got prompted to revisit its utility. I believe there's an App for the iPhone that does much the same, anyone have any experience with it?
The Scangauge has an interface to the vehicle's On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) port and a small display unit. The OBD interface is available as an inexpensive separate device, now usually with a Bluetooth radio. A Bluetooth-enabled device provides the display; yes, this can be an iOS device (such as an iPhone), but Android devices (phones and tablets) are popular for this purpose. A well-known Android app for this is Torque; there are other Android apps and iOS apps as well.

Sorry, I have not used any of the apps, only my Scangauge-like device.
__________________

Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off






» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Escape Trailer Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:24 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2012 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.
×