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Old 06-28-2013, 11:18 AM   #1
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operating new 6.7 Dometic off solar and dual 6 volts

I'm trying to decide on which battery set up with the factory solar and new Dometic 6.7 refer which draws around 15 a/h while in the 12v mode. Towing in daylight means a net loss of about 8 a/h over my solar replenishment. Which over a 6 hour solar day means about a 50 a/h draw down at 100% operation and 25 a/h with 50% cooling operation. I'm disregarding any tow vehicle supply as I'm not sure what if any I send back to the trailer.
At nighttime I lose the solar and over 8 hours 120 a/h draw or 60 a/h @ 50% operation.

I'm thinking I will need the dual 6 v for a reserve of approximately 90 a/h to operate the refer in 12v either day or night? Anyone have experience with this? Since I'll have to use a w/d hitch with my FJ, the extra 60 lbs of the 6v set up will be moot.
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Old 06-28-2013, 11:34 AM   #2
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Jim, why would you rather use your battery for your refer instead of propane? I would imagine you'll have the dual propane package so it's doubtful you would run out. Does the 6.7 refer draw a lot of propane?
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Old 06-28-2013, 11:41 AM   #3
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I use propane now but I'd like the option, if needed to operate off 12v, maybe during daytime driving and switch to propane for night time, cut back my chance of error by 50%. When I tow, I never turn off the motor, even over a recent 23 hour trip to Nebraska. There were 8 fuel/rest stops and each time I'm leery of the propane and gas fumes. The reason I do not turn off the motor is less chance of being stranded while en route.
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Old 06-28-2013, 01:21 PM   #4
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If you're running the reefer on 12v while towing, why are you concerned about propane and gas fumes? Shouldn't be any open flame in the reefer compartment.

My Toyota dealer told me with the heavy duty alternator and beefier battery as part of the tow package, I should be delivering ample additional power back to the trailer. That said, I'm still toying with the idea of installing an old-fashioned ammeter.
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Old 06-28-2013, 02:17 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
The reason I do not turn off the motor is less chance of being stranded while en route.
Curious as to why you think you have less chance to be stranded. Is your tow known for not starting? And, do not fill stations require it to shut down any source of ignition while refueling?
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Old 06-28-2013, 04:46 PM   #6
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Check the TV 7 way wiring connector. When the ignition switch is off there should not be 12 v between blade #4 and blade #1. Your TV battery will not be depleted if there is no voltage with the ignition off. Trailer Wiring Diagrams | etrailer.com ( scroll down to see the 7way TV diagram)
You should have 12 v with the ignition on, higher voltage with the engine running (alternator charging) and no voltage with the ignition off. Toyota uses a battery and charging voltage shut off relay in the vehicles they produce with a tow package. Otherwise a relay needs to be installed in the elect circuit that supplies voltage to blade #4.
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Old 06-29-2013, 05:49 PM   #7
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Here's Jim's first post, with the units of measure corrected to what I believe he intended. The changed text is shown in bold:
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I'm trying to decide on which battery set up with the factory solar and new Dometic 6.7 refer which draws around 15 A while in the 12v mode. Towing in daylight means a net loss of about 8 A-h over my solar replenishment. Which over a 6 hour solar day means about a 50 A-h draw down at 100% operation and 25 A-h with 50% cooling operation. I'm disregarding any tow vehicle supply as I'm not sure what if any I send back to the trailer.
At nighttime I lose the solar and over 8 hours 120 A-h draw or 60 A-h @ 50% operation.

I'm thinking I will need the dual 6 v for a reserve of approximately 90 A-h to operate the refer in 12v either day or night? Anyone have experience with this? Since I'll have to use a w/d hitch with my FJ, the extra 60 lbs of the 6v set up will be moot.
Generally, I replaced "a/h" (which would mean "amps per hour", which is nonsensical) with "A-h" (amp-hour); however, the first value shown as "a/h" becomes "A", for "amps".

I understand the idea of using a 6-hour "solar" day for the energy produced by the solar panel, but for the consumption of the refrigerator all 24 hours of the day need to be accounted for, so shouldn't it be
24 hours x 15 amps = 230 amp-hours total consumption at 100% duty cycle
_or
24 hours x 15 amps x 0.50 = 115 amp-hours total consumption at 50% duty cycle
6 hours x 8 amps ~= 50 amp-hours total supply (disregarding tow vehicle)
for 115 - 50 = 90 amp-hours net loss per day at 50% duty cycle?
Jim, in your calculations you total 75 A-h/day of shortfall, and suggest a 90 A-h battery capacity to cover this. It looks more like 90 A-h/day of shortfall, and thus much more than that to cover it without excessively discharging the batteries.

Whatever the exact value, my understanding is that this is just for a day of operating a propane/electric refrigerator always on DC power, such as for the Nebraska trip.
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Old 06-29-2013, 06:22 PM   #8
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Yes, Brian we are thinking along the same lines. I did not do the 24 hour calculation as at night I would have to operate off propane, thus I was trying to obtain a day/solar/battery and night/battery/propane scale. Just wondering if other members used solar and 12v for this refer set up and their results.
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Old 06-30-2013, 11:42 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by santacruzer View Post
If you're running the reefer on 12v while towing, why are you concerned about propane and gas fumes? Shouldn't be any open flame in the reefer compartment.

My Toyota dealer told me with the heavy duty alternator and beefier battery as part of the tow package, I should be delivering ample additional power back to the trailer. That said, I'm still toying with the idea of installing an old-fashioned ammeter.
Might check into a Scan Gauge or the Less Expensive Ultra Gauge can tell you a lot more then ammeter.

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Old 07-01-2013, 12:29 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Cypherian View Post
Might check into a Scan Gauge or the Less Expensive Ultra Gauge can tell you a lot more then ammeter.
It tells you lots about what is going on in the vehicle, but I would be very surprised if the current flowing to the trailer connection is one of the data items.
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