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Old 10-30-2017, 11:15 AM   #31
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We like our current outside shower on the Driver's side. We setup a "shower tent" back there which usually gives us a little more privacy. The tent would look awkward next to the awning too, and might take up too much room out front.
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Old 10-30-2017, 01:47 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by War Eagle View Post
Tom, You can get up to speed on this and learn lots from the 148 posts in this thread: Fridge stopped working.. Any Thoughts?
As far as i know, the problem is limited to the 6 cu ft DM2663 (standard in the 21' and 5.0TA?), and here is the official response on this forum from ETI: Dometic 6cuft Fridge (DM 2663LB) - Fusible Link
This may be an over-simplification (or even wrong when it's all sorted out), but I believe the problem occurs when the trailer is in motion with propane being used to operate the fridge. In a nutshell (as I understand it), the motion disrupts air flow within the external fan, trapping enough hot air inside the back of the fridge that it melts a fusible link, which cuts off the propane (safety feature), which stops fridge operation. Then hours down the road, you discover your food has spoiled. I believe suggesting to leave the fan turned off while camping until it reaches over 100 degrees ambient temperature is a bit of over-protectionist CYA from the Dometic legal team, but that's probably just me and another one of my conspiracy theories.
Wow! Thanks for the reference, War Eagle. I'm surprised by two things: (1) that the problem in the thread was for such a short time frame, and (2) that there wasn't a march on the Dometic HQ by people with flaming torches, etc.
I can now see why the external fan might not be very useful. I have been following the Forum for about two months now (we put a deposit on a 17A in early October). I had seen a couple of threads where owners had come up with elaborate flues, etc., in regard to fluctuating fridge temperatures. It sound like the problem got largely solved by not traveling in propane mode. Thanks again.
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Old 12-07-2017, 03:09 AM   #33
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Noblets, I'm in obsession mode (I mean due diligence--thanks, Bernard) re my 17 A with a build sheet due 12/21. So much great information in this forum. Nice to see someone else getting the same model.

For the thread in general--here are my current issues--I'd appreciate any/all input.

1) Leaning toward power jack but I'm concerned about tongue weight and if my rear hatch (2013 Highlander v6) would open past the motor housing.

2) Thinking of one propane vs 2, again with the tongue weight

3) Wondering if I'll use an external 12 v

4) Question about interior 12 v "hole" vs the outlets w usb. On my current setup I just plug a double car usb into the 12 v and use that. Is there a reason for the more elaborate 12 v/usb?

5) *Everybody* raves about the storage box. Again, tongue weight is a concern-I can add 3 hatches (one on each side forward, and passenger side back) for quite a bit less $$ and distribute weight rather than concentrate it. Yet the big bin is much easier...no fumbling with keys, angling stuff in. And them, there are holes in the fiberglass with the hatches. arrrrgh.

Ok, that's enough for tonight. Off to find my pillow and have visions of Escape dancing in my head.
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Old 12-07-2017, 05:14 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by h2owmn View Post
Noblets, I'm in obsession mode (I mean due diligence--thanks, Bernard) re my 17 A with a build sheet due 12/21. So much great information in this forum. Nice to see someone else getting the same model.

For the thread in general--here are my current issues--I'd appreciate any/all input.

1) Leaning toward power jack but I'm concerned about tongue weight and if my rear hatch (2013 Highlander v6) would open past the motor housing.

2) Thinking of one propane vs 2, again with the tongue weight

3) Wondering if I'll use an external 12 v

4) Question about interior 12 v "hole" vs the outlets w usb. On my current setup I just plug a double car usb into the 12 v and use that. Is there a reason for the more elaborate 12 v/usb?

5) *Everybody* raves about the storage box. Again, tongue weight is a concern-I can add 3 hatches (one on each side forward, and passenger side back) for quite a bit less $$ and distribute weight rather than concentrate it. Yet the big bin is much easier...no fumbling with keys, angling stuff in. And them, there are holes in the fiberglass with the hatches. arrrrgh.

Ok, that's enough for tonight. Off to find my pillow and have visions of Escape dancing in my head.
The tongue weight is more critical in a single axle unit and the more you have the less sway you will have. If your tug can not handle 3-400lbs of tongue weight, that is another issue, but other Escape owners use the Highlander, towing much bigger Escapes without any issue. It is a lot harder to add afterwards. Reace &Co knows what the proper tongue weight is needed for the 17 and that is how he produces them.Get the box and dual propane nd even the jack, you can always get a longer stinger to missing the hatchback.
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Old 12-07-2017, 09:04 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by h2owmn View Post
1) Leaning toward power jack but I'm concerned about tongue weight and if my rear hatch (2013 Highlander v6) would open past the motor housing.
Just looked at this for an older 4Runner and it would definitely hit the rear hatch. The advantage on the 4Runner is you still have the retractable rear window to access things. You can see in the 17B pic attached from the ETI website that the head sticks up quite high. The disadvantage of the extended stinger is that it will be sticking out much further behind the vehicle when unhitched, unless you remove it. Removal is not very convenient if you use a hitch tightener.

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3) Wondering if I'll use an external 12 v
I am considering adding one. Would be convenient for air compressor for tires, water transfer pump when boondocking and even for an air stone to keep bait alive if you are a fisherman

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Originally Posted by h2owmn View Post
5) *Everybody* raves about the storage box. Again, tongue weight is a concern-I can add 3 hatches (one on each side forward, and passenger side back) for quite a bit less $$ and distribute weight rather than concentrate it. Yet the big bin is much easier...no fumbling with keys, angling stuff in. And them, there are holes in the fiberglass with the hatches. arrrrgh.
I would definitely get the storage box. The only exception is if you were ever going to consider doing a quiet, mini-split A/C like I did then you would use that space for the condenser. We did a Stowaway box on the rear and love it, but it makes it more difficult to carry bikes.
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Old 12-07-2017, 09:38 AM   #36
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Don't know about a Highlander but we have a 4Runner and the liftgate clears the electric jack probably because we have a WDH, so our ball mount shaft is long. Also have the opening back window though if it did not clear.
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Old 12-07-2017, 12:28 PM   #37
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As it happens, I was gifted one of those and happily had it installed, only to discover that I couldn't open the hatch much. So it took it off and returned to my flip jack. I do have the window, but not opening the hatch would be a deal breaker. The andersen weight/sway control has been recommended to me by a friend and I'm leaning that way, so if that adds extra length, it might work. Seems to me I could check this out at orientation and get it if it would work. It's a pretty simple install.With the batteries at the rear on the 17, is this a problem for power access?
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Old 12-07-2017, 01:28 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by h2owmn View Post
As it happens, I was gifted one of those and happily had it installed, only to discover that I couldn't open the hatch much. So it took it off and returned to my flip jack. I do have the window, but not opening the hatch would be a deal breaker. The andersen weight/sway control has been recommended to me by a friend and I'm leaning that way, so if that adds extra length, it might work. Seems to me I could check this out at orientation and get it if it would work. It's a pretty simple install.With the batteries at the rear on the 17, is this a problem for power access?
An extended stinger might help with hatch access. You could do that whether or not you install an Andersen hitch.

As for powering the jack, you can tie directly into the front electrical box - the same one used by the 7-pin umbilical. It's one wire to terminate. As far as I know, that's how Escape does it when you order a power jack as a build option.
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Old 12-07-2017, 08:54 PM   #39
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As it happens, I was gifted one of those and happily had it installed, only to discover that I couldn't open the hatch much. So it took it off and returned to my flip jack. I do have the window, but not opening the hatch would be a deal breaker.
They would not all be the same and I do not know how you would know unless someone with a Highlander has an electric jack that clears. Or you measure carefully as to what you need and then perhaps could find it. I wonder what you had. We have the Pro Series WDH that Escape sells. But no telling the difference with a Highlander.
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