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Old 11-08-2017, 12:58 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I guess Escape set's it to the longer setting? Do not know if our a/c model has time delay? Either way the longer delay will not hurt anything.
It is likely that ETI is removing the jumper based on the reports of the length of time delay to power up. I installed mine myself so that explains why mine is 15 seconds. My mini-split A/C has a 3 minute delay on the compressor upon restart and it appears that the Dometic rooftop unit used by ETI has a 2 minute delay on the compressor. So no big deal either way.
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Old 11-08-2017, 09:01 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
... My mini-split A/C ...
Dave, Forgive me if you've already explained this elsewhere, but what does it take to power your mini-split A/C? A single 120V connection? Or a 120V connection for the inside unit plus another 120V connection for for outside unit? Amps per unit? Total amps? Just curious what kind of electrical hook up you need to power it when you're camped out and how much power you have left for other electrical items when your mini-split A/C is running full blast. Thanks, Dale
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Old 11-08-2017, 09:59 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by War Eagle View Post
Dave, Forgive me if you've already explained this elsewhere, but what does it take to power your mini-split A/C? A single 120V connection? Or a 120V connection for the inside unit plus another 120V connection for for outside unit? Amps per unit? Total amps?
From Dave's Custom Air Conditioning Retrofit thread:
Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
...
The traditional 120V circuit only needs to go to the outdoor unit from a 15 amp breaker in the power center.
...
The indoor unit uses a combination 4 conductor power and control wire fed from the outdoor unit.
The indoor unit only uses about one amp.
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Old 11-09-2017, 09:00 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by War Eagle View Post
Dave, Forgive me if you've already explained this elsewhere, but what does it take to power your mini-split A/C? A single 120V connection? Or a 120V connection for the inside unit plus another 120V connection for for outside unit? Amps per unit? Total amps? Just curious what kind of electrical hook up you need to power it when you're camped out and how much power you have left for other electrical items when your mini-split A/C is running full blast. Thanks, Dale
Brian, thanks for providing the info from the thread.

Dale,
It's real simple. As describe the outdoor unit is powered via a 15 amp breaker. A combo power/control wire is fed from the outdoor unit to the indoor unit. Like this:
www.amazon.com/dp/B00MU0TNMO/ref=asc_df_B00MU0TNMO5256929/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B00MU0TNMO&linkCod e=df0&hvadid=167149293059&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvran d=7689291892660746116&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev =c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003941&hvtargid=p la-307589361995

The unit is 9,000 BTU/H and has decent efficiency so it uses a bit less power at maximum than the 11,000 BTU/H overhead Dometic units. Since it is inverter technology with variable speed compressor the amps reduce as the compressor slows done.

Here are the full specs on the unit for your use:
www.fujitsugeneral.com/us/resources/pdf/support/downloads/submittal-sheets/9RL2.pdf
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Old 11-09-2017, 11:41 AM   #25
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Ok- so if you do ever use an adapter, is it 30A to 50A?

Also, what length extension cord will generally do the job- 25'?

Thanks!
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Old 11-09-2017, 11:49 AM   #26
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Ok- so if you do ever use an adapter, is it 30A to 50A?

Also, what length extension cord will generally do the job- 25'?

Thanks!
It is generally thought of as 50A (line side) to 30A (load side).

I carry a 25' 30A extension cord, and used it two nights in 5 years, though was handy then, and I expect to camp with hookups a lot more in the future. I also carry a short 15A cord.
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Old 11-09-2017, 12:49 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by davedru View Post
Ok- so if you do ever use an adapter, is it 30A to 50A?

Also, what length extension cord will generally do the job- 25'?

Thanks!
We have not used our 25 foot extension but would have at one place if I could not have shifted over enough. I was inches from the cord being in the air. The water and sewer were right beside the site. If the extra cord was not hidden under the bed to the left of the water heater I would have just used it.

We have used the 50 to 30 amp adapter twice so far. Once because the 30 amp socket was so loose the plug just fell out and the other due to smoke and burn marks on the socket. I did not want to take a chance on it.
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Old 11-09-2017, 02:37 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
Brian, thanks for providing the info from the thread. Dale,
It's real simple. As describe the outdoor unit is powered via a 15 amp breaker. A combo power/control wire is fed from the outdoor unit to the indoor unit. Like this:
www.amazon.com/dp/B00MU0TNMO/ref=asc_df_B00MU0TNMO5256929/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B00MU0TNMO&linkCod e=df0&hvadid=167149293059&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvran d=7689291892660746116&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev =c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003941&hvtargid=p la-307589361995
The unit is 9,000 BTU/H and has decent efficiency so it uses a bit less power at maximum than the 11,000 BTU/H overhead Dometic units. Since it is inverter technology with variable speed compressor the amps reduce as the compressor slows done. Here are the full specs on the unit for your use:
www.fujitsugeneral.com/us/resources/pdf/support/downloads/submittal-sheets/9RL2.pdf
Great info. Thanks. The fact that you can both cool and heat using a 2K watt generator might be of interest to many. If ETI ever catches up on their backlog of orders and has time to play with the installation a little, I think it would be great if they would install a few on a trial basis, probably starting with the 21', just to see what they think of it themselves and maybe get a few factory installs out into the field for some real-world testing. It would get that heavy ceiling mount unit off the roof, too, to lower the height clearance (and raise the head room inside!) and lower the center of gravity of the trailer. A win-win -win....
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Old 11-09-2017, 03:13 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by War Eagle View Post
Great info. Thanks. The fact that you can both cool and heat using a 2K watt generator might be of interest to many. If ETI ever catches up on their backlog of orders and has time to play with the installation a little, I think it would be great if they would install a few on a trial basis, probably starting with the 21', just to see what they think of it themselves and maybe get a few factory installs out into the field for some real-world testing. It would get that heavy ceiling mount unit off the roof, too, to lower the height clearance (and raise the head room inside!) and lower the center of gravity of the trailer. A win-win -win....
I realize we are drifting the thread off topic...let's continue this in my A/C thread if needed.
I wish I was closer to ETI to show the install to Reace. He'd love it, but I suspect his two main hang ups would likely be placement of the condenser and warranty service since RV places won't work on it. I think the best compromise and more realistic expectation would be a quieter inverter overhead unit like the Aislu MSD Merlin Suit. Problem is I haven't actually seen availability in North America and an email to the company has gone unanswered.
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