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Old 07-07-2014, 05:58 PM   #1
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Rock guards

Does anybody know if ETI sells replacement vinyl rock guard pads?
The "snap on" 2 that I have on my 17b are looking rather rural. What do you think one would pay for a pair ?
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Old 07-07-2014, 09:37 PM   #2
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Consider going to the white truck bed liner that they now use on some models. I thought the color was well matched and no more need to repair snaps or clean soggy rock guards. I believe they use Line-X, I noticed a shop for Line-X just down the road from ETI.
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Old 07-07-2014, 09:49 PM   #3
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My plan is to wait until the area protected by rock guards is really gross, and then cover it with Line-X.
Been six years now and I've got a way to go.
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Old 07-08-2014, 09:35 PM   #4
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Consider going to the white truck bed liner that they now use on some models. I thought the color was well matched and no more need to repair snaps or clean soggy rock guards. I believe they use Line-X, I noticed a shop for Line-X just down the road from ETI.
Hi Paul,
Question for you what people doing with male end of the snaps that is attached to the fiberglass body of the trailer? Are they remove them or just spraying over the snaps?
I am going on five weeks of waiting for my license plate from Madison how are you doing ?
Mark
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Old 07-08-2014, 10:42 PM   #5
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Question for you what people doing with male end of the snaps that is attached to the fiberglass body of the trailer? Are they remove them or just spraying over the snaps?
I have not had to do this, but I think I would consider putting matching snaps (the female part) on the studs (the male part) as a way to mask them off. The more obvious solution is to remove and replace them... but are they simply riveted on?
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Old 07-09-2014, 06:18 AM   #6
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I'd remove the snaps on the body and fill the holes with marine epoxy, sand smooth... if you're spraying with bedliner. Why have lumps, when the areas "patched" aren't ever going to be seen again?
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Old 07-09-2014, 07:49 AM   #7
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Oops... I was thinking of refinishing then putting the guards back on. The question about snap removal appears to be for the case of using box liner instead of guards, so I agree with Donna: get rid of the snaps.

If they're riveted on they're not bad to remove (just frill off the rivet head); most of the hassle will be in filling the holes, especially where the inside is not accessible.
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Old 07-09-2014, 10:07 AM   #8
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Mark,
If you are going to keep the snaps be sure to lubricate often, just a cloth with silicone spray on it and wipe the inside of the cap and the snap installed on the Escape. If you have a stuck one do not pull on the rock guard fabric but use a screwdriver to pop the cap off. If you separate the cap from the fabric most canvas shops will crimp a new one on for a couple of bucks.

I am at least several weeks behind you in the queue at motor vehicles for a license plate. I believe Carol managed to snag one in record time before her pickup in Chilliwack. Being in Madison she could hand deliver some of the paperwork. So far no one has asked me for a plate, if so, I would just show them the application I sent in a month ago.
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Old 07-09-2014, 04:41 PM   #9
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Hi Paul,
Thanks for the maintenance tip on the snaps for the rock guards. I will let you know when we receive the license plate for our trailer. Hopefully everything works out for all of us Wisconsin purchaser with out any glitches.
Mark
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Old 07-09-2014, 04:47 PM   #10
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I'd remove the snaps on the body and fill the holes with marine epoxy, sand smooth... if you're spraying with bedliner. Why have lumps, when the areas "patched" aren't ever going to be seen again?
Yes, Donna you are right the patch work should be easily done and no one is ever going to know where the holes are under the spray bedliner.
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