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Old 03-31-2017, 05:37 PM   #1
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Some things I learned at my orientation

Some things I learned at my orientation. All of these notes apply to the 17b, and perhaps other trailers too:

-
- for a 17b, if using the Tekonsha brake controllers, a good starting point is setting it to 6.5 with no boost.
- you can use the step without retracting it without worrying about breaking it. This could be useful when stopping for just a few minutes.
- don't pull out the front rock guard window by the knobs. Use the knobs to release the window, then put your fingers behind the seam and pull it out
- the propane cover should have the knobs in the back so that the top cover doesn't flip open while driving
- on flat paved ground, it was easy to move a 17b or turn it with just the hitch wheel. I wouldn't want to push it up any hill though. That felt sketchy beyond a 1 degree slope. I understand that dual axle trailers are more difficult.

Also, in case anyone wants to know how far away from the ground various things are under the trailer, I took advantage of the level ground inside the showroom to measure a few things. I first leveled the trailer by making sure the frame was the same height at the coupler and at the wheels. These numbers are for an empty trailer.

17.25" - the top of the inside of the ball hitch
13.75" - the bottom of the frame in the front section [the rear section behind the wheel is raised]
11" - the axle near the wheels (it seem a tiny bit higher at the center)
10.75" - gray tank at lowest point where it discharges
10.5" - the front stabilizers
10.25" - black tank pipe
10" - the step
7.75" - the sewer discharge valve

The rear frame is about 4" higher, so all the components behind the axle are quite a bit higher than the component forwards of the axle. I think this is unique to the 17b since the dinette area is raised.
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Old 03-31-2017, 06:43 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by paulk View Post
- you can use the step without retracting it without worrying about breaking it. This could be useful when stopping for just a few minutes.
Absolutely horrified to see this comment. I would never move the trailer with the step deployed. If you turn and catch something like a curb it will do damage.

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Old 03-31-2017, 06:44 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by paulk View Post
...the propane cover should have the knobs in the back so that the top cover doesn't flip open while driving...
I oriented my cover that way from the get-go as it was the only way it made sense to me. Nonetheless, I lost my top cover--the "lid"--somewhere along the way. At the suggestion of someone on this forum, I drilled holes in the cover and fastened the top cover with zip ties.
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Propane Cover Ties.jpg  
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Old 03-31-2017, 06:53 PM   #4
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- don't pull out the front rock guard window by the knobs. Use the knobs to release the window, then put your fingers behind the seam and pull it out
Be careful with those knobs, period.

Our rock shield held water. (Weep holes in the wrong place? - I cut new ones and it does better.) The latches corroded and we broke a knob just trying to turn it to release it (my hub swears he didn't exert any pressure - so we're thinking the plastic just crumbled).

We're planning to whittle a new knob out of wood, figuring a new plastic one would meet the same fate, eventually...
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Old 03-31-2017, 06:58 PM   #5
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Absolutely horrified to see this comment. I would never move the trailer with the step deployed. If you turn and catch something like a curb it will do damage.

Ron
I read paulk's statement to mean that you do not have to pull the step out but can step on the edge of it when it is still in the stored position - without having to pull it out for quick access into the trailer, like when stopping for groceries or other??
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Old 03-31-2017, 07:30 PM   #6
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I oriented my cover that way from the get-go as it was the only way it made sense to me. Nonetheless, I lost my top cover--the "lid"--somewhere along the way. At the suggestion of someone on this forum, I drilled holes in the cover and fastened the top cover with zip ties.
I did something similar after losing my propane access covery
I drilled holes and then used metal key rings in place of tyraps.
It's been 3 years and haven't lost the access door YET.
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Old 03-31-2017, 08:00 PM   #7
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I read paulk's statement to mean that you do not have to pull the step out but can step on the edge of it when it is still in the stored position - without having to pull it out for quick access into the trailer, like when stopping for groceries or other??
Ron that is what I also understood . We do that also , when it is a quick stop . Pat
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Old 03-31-2017, 09:39 PM   #8
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In that case it's semantics. To me, "without retracting it" means it's extended.

I often use it in the retracted position but sometimes, especially stepping down, I've almost had a little incident and end up telling myself not to be lazy. If you're using the step, use it properly.

Ron
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Old 03-31-2017, 10:19 PM   #9
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Paulk, thanks for the info!! Good coverage of some things that I haven't seen covered before. I pick up my 17B in 12 days. Now I can measure and hopefully make sure I have the right drop/raise on the hitch bar.
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Old 03-31-2017, 10:23 PM   #10
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Paulk, thanks for the info!! Good coverage of some things that I haven't seen covered before. I pick up my 17B in 12 days. Now I can measure and hopefully make sure I have the right drop/raise on the hitch bar.
You can be assured, that ETI won't allow you to leave without being safe and secure to go down the road.
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Old 03-31-2017, 10:47 PM   #11
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I also learned in orientation that the propane detector is always on. So if you store your rig turn off the battery switch just to be safe.

Is there a lock on the 4 cu ft fridge to hold the door open slightly for air circulation when the trailer is in storage?
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Old 03-31-2017, 10:51 PM   #12
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I just stick an oven mitt in the top shelf of the door on my 5 cu. ft. fridge. Keeps it from closing.
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Old 03-31-2017, 11:23 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by advenas View Post
I also learned in orientation that the propane detector is always on. So if you store your rig turn off the battery switch just to be safe.

Is there a lock on the 4 cu ft fridge to hold the door open slightly for air circulation when the trailer is in storage?
Nope, I asked at our orientation.
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Old 03-31-2017, 11:39 PM   #14
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I was a little less than impressed with Dometic's newest RM2454 fridge in terms of features. I think ETI made the right choice to use it because it has far better insulation than the previous Dometic fridge that had all the cooling issues, but it seems Dometic has taken away some door locking options, and the freezer compartment is no longer removable.
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Old 03-31-2017, 11:58 PM   #15
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Interesting....I think I have my first mod!
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Old 04-01-2017, 12:09 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
In that case it's semantics. To me, "without retracting it" means it's extended.

I often use it in the retracted position but sometimes, especially stepping down, I've almost had a little incident and end up telling myself not to be lazy. If you're using the step, use it properly.

Ron
Ron I think it helps I had Escape put a extra handle inside the doorframe I always grab before I exit . Only sometimes don't pull it out when it is a quick stop . Probably wouldn't use it that way if not for the extra grab handle though . Pat
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Old 04-01-2017, 12:15 AM   #17
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I also learned in orientation that the propane detector is always on. So if you store your rig turn off the battery switch just to be safe.

Is there a lock on the 4 cu ft fridge to hold the door open slightly for air circulation when the trailer is in storage?
When we had just brought the trailer home didn't know about the battery cut off or that the propane detector in 2 weeks would really bring the 2 6 volt batteries down . Never made that mistake again . For the refrigerator we just hang a small towel in the corner of door to keep it open . Pat
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Old 04-01-2017, 12:32 AM   #18
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Disconnecting the batteries while in storage is one of the things they took the time to mention at Orientation. I imagine it could be easily forgotten in a very busy day though.

The propane detector (75mA) is the main draw, but the MaxxFan also uses 12.8mA when idle, and the 12v/USB outlets use 20mA per outlet.

One of the little perks of getting the solar panel is that you probably don't have to worry about this if your trailer is stored outside.
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Old 04-01-2017, 01:08 AM   #19
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Disconnecting the batteries while in storage is one of the things they took the time to mention at Orientation. I imagine it could be easily forgotten in a very busy day though.

The propane detector (75mA) is the main draw, but the MaxxFan also uses 12.8mA when idle, and the 12v/USB outlets use 20mA per outlet.

One of the little perks of getting the solar panel is that you probably don't have to worry about this if your trailer is stored outside.
Hi Paulk The batteries and cutoff was never mentioned for us on Orientation Day. We also didn't get the 12 v/USB at that time . I have since added it to the trailer . Just happened to check trailer , have a volt meter and found batteries run down . Found out about the cut off switch when Myron made a cover for his , didn't even know it was there . Ours is kind of hidden . You have to get down under the table to get at it . Pat
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Old 04-01-2017, 06:01 AM   #20
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- ETI recommends that a 17b is towed slightly nose high, from 0.5" to 1.5" high approximately with 1" being the best. They said that under heavy braking, if the trailer was nose down it might unweight the front wheels and reduce steering ability. Slightly nose high will instead act a little like a weight distribution hitch and weight the front wheels for better steering.
.
Thanks for that information. Our 17B tows nose high and I am relieved to know that's the way it is supposed to be.
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