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Old 05-16-2016, 12:34 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by AKCamper View Post
If you don't jack the trailer by the axle I imagine it has to be jacked by the frame. How tall of a hydraulic jack do you need? We are picking up a 19 in July and I had a nice scissor jack I was planing on using. Bad Idea?
I use my small floor jack on the end plate of the axles. Don't really see any reason not to. Doesn't make sense to have to jack up the frame, have the wheel droop, and have to jack up the frame even higher.

For just removing one wheel I use a short piece of 2 x 10. Pull the one wheel up on it and the other wheel should be clear of the ground. Actually my 2 x 10 has a piece of 1/2" plywood on the bottom giving it a thickness of 2". Sometimes 1 1/2" lift isn't quite enough.

Ron
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Old 05-16-2016, 12:55 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
I use my small floor jack on the end plate of the axles. Don't really see any reason not to. Doesn't make sense to have to jack up the frame, have the wheel droop, and have to jack up the frame even higher.
Over the years, more than one person has caused problems by jacking on the axle. Everything from collapsed tubes to pinched torsion. Besides, Dexter doesn't recommend it.

Dexter recommends that you do not jack up the trailer on the suspension components because there is always the potential for damage. Bent hangers, leaf springs, or axle tubes can cause bad axle alignment with bad tire wear resulting. Also, many trailer builders do not use Dexter hangers and we have no idea how strong these hangers may or may not be. Therefore, we take the conservative approach and recommend jacking up only on the trailer frame.
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Old 05-16-2016, 01:00 PM   #13
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Over the years, more than one person has caused problems by jacking on the axle. Everything from collapsed tubes to pinched torsion. Besides, Dexter doesn't recommend it.

Dexter recommends that you do not jack up the trailer on the suspension components because there is always the potential for damage. Bent hangers, leaf springs, or axle tubes can cause bad axle alignment with bad tire wear resulting. Also, many trailer builders do not use Dexter hangers and we have no idea how strong these hangers may or may not be. Therefore, we take the conservative approach and recommend jacking up only on the trailer frame.
The Escape manual says to jack only from the axle. The following is copied and pasted from my manual, page 22:

Brake Adjustment

Brakes should be adjusted after the first 500 kms of operation and every 5,000 kms thereafter. Adjust the brakes as follows using a standard automotive brake tool:

I. Remove the rubber plug from the adjustment hole at the base of the brake drum backing plate.

2. Raise the wheel off the ground. Place the jack under the axle only.
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Old 05-16-2016, 01:03 PM   #14
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Oh brother...
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Old 05-16-2016, 01:06 PM   #15
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Oh brother...
I also checked the manual on ETI's site today to make sure mine was not outdated. Its still says to jack from the axle only.
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Old 05-16-2016, 01:10 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Scuba55 View Post
The Escape manual says to jack only from the axle. The following is copied and pasted from my manual, page 22:

Brake Adjustment

Brakes should be adjusted after the first 500 kms of operation and every 5,000 kms thereafter. Adjust the brakes as follows using a standard automotive brake tool:

I. Remove the rubber plug from the adjustment hole at the base of the brake drum backing plate.

2. Raise the wheel off the ground. Place the jack under the axle only.
Guess what no rubber plug ! Pat
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Old 05-16-2016, 01:47 PM   #17
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Guess what no rubber plug ! Pat
I think that chances how the trailer should or should not be jacked?
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Old 05-16-2016, 01:52 PM   #18
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Bob, you have my curiosity piqued. Was extended parking on the tires the cause of these bubbles for sure, and do you have any photos? I have heard others complain of problems from overwintering without support, but I have never seen it on any of dozens of trailers. Could climate play a role?

I have heard it said it was more of a requirement in days past with bias ply tires, than it is now with radial tires.
Trailer was a single axle, max weight was 3500, while the empty trailer weight was 3300. Safe to say I towed it all over the east whilst being overweight by at least a few hundred. Didn't know about GVWR's and all that till after I bought the trailer. Who'd have thought they would build a trailer that didn't leave enough headroom to fill the water and propane tanks.

Tires were Towmax, not known for being very good. At 2 years old the manufacturer had to replace them as they had cracking all over the sidewalls. About 3 years later I found both tires had big bubbles on the inside when preping it in the spring. Talked to the tire guy I use who said it was most likely from sitting for 7 months without moving. Suggested blocking up the trailer for the winter next time and rotating the tires as the OP mentioned. Also said the BEST thing would be to block it up and then remove the tires and store them inside. As I mentioned. I only blocked it up the first year. I did change to Maxxis M8008's which have a good rep.

The Carlisles on the Escape look very similar to the Maxxis, The Towmax had a very narrow footprint.

I'll blame the bubbles on the combination of crap tires and 7 months winter outside storage.

The tire guy is the store owner, been in business roughly 40 years, as opposed to some 20 year old at Tire Warehouse. Take the advise however one wishes.
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Old 05-16-2016, 02:13 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Scuba55 View Post
I also checked the manual on ETI's site today to make sure mine was not outdated. Its still says to jack from the axle only.
I wouldn't follow that instruction until I had it confirmed by ETI. I think that is a mistake as my recollection is that Reace told me to jack on the frame NEAR the axle.
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Old 05-16-2016, 02:26 PM   #20
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I have sent an email to ETI asking them to step in and clarify jacking the trailer.
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