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Old 05-16-2016, 03:00 PM   #21
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Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
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Aside from any confusion about Escape's directions, and regardless of the wisdom of jacking on any suspension component in general, these are designed specifically to lift the trailer by the beam of a beam-type axle... not the crossmember (or anything else) of a Torflex suspension. This means that if it applies to any Escape it is only the 5.0TA (and not the 2017-spec 5.0TA).

I really wonder about any company which would publish this testimonial:
Quote:
“TrailerLeg’s was one of the best investments i have ever come across, now i wont need to replace the tires every spring when the family goes camping!”
Aside from the misuse of an apostrophe (a minor thing, but a pet peeve)... who abuses their tires so badly, or uses such extreme junk, that annual tire replacement is required?
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Old 05-16-2016, 03:03 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
I have heard it said it was more of a requirement in days past with bias ply tires, than it is now with radial tires.
Right - tires used to flat-spot, and they don't any more. Even then, the flat-spotting didn't cause sidewall failures as far as I know.

For prolonged parking to cause sidewall separation, I would think that the tires would need to be very heavily loaded for their size and inflation pressure.
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Old 05-16-2016, 03:11 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
I use my small floor jack on the end plate of the axles. Don't really see any reason not to. Doesn't make sense to have to jack up the frame, have the wheel droop, and have to jack up the frame even higher.
Ron, what do you mean by the "end plate"? If you mean the bracket which connects the crossmember tube to the frame, that is jacking up the frame. If you mean flange that the brake assembly bolts to, how do you get a jack under that with the wheel and tire in place?
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Old 05-16-2016, 03:29 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
I wouldn't follow that instruction until I had it confirmed by ETI. I think that is a mistake as my recollection is that Reace told me to jack on the frame NEAR the axle.
I agree, and would not jack the trailer unless I absolutely had to. I carry the trailer aid when traveling. I've also used it for brake adjustments. It lifts one wheel off the ground at a time, and only weighs a few pounds.

http://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Aid-Pl...er+lift+helper
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Old 05-16-2016, 06:38 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Ron, what do you mean by the "end plate"? If you mean the bracket which connects the crossmember tube to the frame, that is jacking up the frame. If you mean flange that the brake assembly bolts to, how do you get a jack under that with the wheel and tire in place?
It depends on what I'm doing and where I'm doing it which of the 3 methods I use.

There's the put one wheel on a block etc. to raise the other wheel; there's the put the jack on the axle or my preference, on the vertical steel plate which I consider more secure and there's put the jack on the trailing arm.

Yup, have to tilt it a slight amount but it's a quick and easy way to get only one wheel off the ground. I mostly use it for a quick brake check and adjustment. OK, no one has to tell me they wouldn't do that. Works for me.

Ron
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Old 05-16-2016, 08:29 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
There's the put one wheel on a block etc. to raise the other wheel; there's the put the jack on the axle or my preference, on the vertical steel plate which I consider more secure and there's put the jack on the trailing arm.

Yup, have to tilt it a slight amount but it's a quick and easy way to get only one wheel off the ground. I mostly use it for a quick brake check and adjustment. OK, no one has to tell me they wouldn't do that. Works for me.

Ron
If the first photo is what you describe as putting the jack "on the axle", then I would call that jacking on the hub end of the suspension arm, and I agree that means less travel than jacking on the frame. It seems structurally sound to me as long as the jack cup holds the end of the arm securely. If my jack were narrow enough for this to work I would have no problem with doing this (and of course not going under the trailer when supported this way); a common scissors jack would likely fit but could be awkward to crank in this position.

The second photo would be jacking "on the vertical steel plate" which is at the end of the suspension's crossmember tube (which is not really the "axle", but now I understand that original reference). This is the bracket that I mentioned, and it seems to me to be a structurally ideal location; it wouldn't be far enough back for ideal stability with a single axle, but the rear bracket on a tandem would be fine. The thick steel plate used by Escape (instead of the common Dexter side hanger) makes this really solid.
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Old 05-17-2016, 04:03 PM   #27
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In the photos, what is the purpose of the bungee cord?
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Old 05-17-2016, 04:14 PM   #28
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It's just left over from when I upgraded the quality of ETI brake connections and ran a dedicated brake ground. Never got around to replacing it with a zap strap.

Ron
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