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Old 02-09-2015, 12:46 PM   #31
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My understanding is that your home water heater also has an anode and that it should be inspected and replaced as required. Not that I have ever done that.
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Old 02-09-2015, 12:57 PM   #32
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In addition it should also be drained yearly to eliminate debris that settles at the bottom. Have not done that in 9 years. Interesting how we tend to maintain our trailers better than our home appliances??
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Old 02-09-2015, 01:05 PM   #33
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I'm still using the original anode that came with the trailer and at the rate it's going, I don't expect to have to replace it any time soon. But, we have soft water here.
The anode that came with our trailer lasted two years. Corroded right at the nut and actually separated from the nut. Luckily I got it out fairly easily. At the rate the replacement anode is eroding it will last the life of the trailer. Does the anode nut require good contact with the tank to work properly. When I reinstalled the replacement anode I used plenty of Teflon tape.
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Old 02-09-2015, 01:06 PM   #34
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My home water heater is gas fired. When the furnace guy was here to service the furnace, he told me I should vacuum under the water heater where there are vents that can get clogged up and cause an expensive service call.
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Old 02-09-2015, 01:09 PM   #35
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Does the anode nut require good contact with the tank to work properly. When I reinstalled the replacement anode I used plenty of Teflon tape.
The anode nut just holds the rod and the rod holds the sacrificial metal. Nut just has to be secure and you only want to use a couple wraps of the tape.
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Old 02-09-2015, 01:12 PM   #36
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If your tap water is so low in mineral content that you can safely use it in a battery, I don't suppose you would have much use for CLR. If you need acid to descale your water heater, you have minerals in your water, and CLR can be useful. I buy it (or an equivalent) by the 4-litre jug.

No, I wouldn't pour it down the drain for the sake of the septic system, either.
Brian, a little off topic but where do you get 4 litre jugs of CLR equivalent. I use CLR a lot for derusting old car parts as part of my hobby. A 50/50 mix of CLR and water will take the rust off of almost anything over night.
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Old 02-09-2015, 01:12 PM   #37
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A lot of today's electric, home hot water heaters are glass lined with the incoming (fresh water) water entering at the bottom of the tank eliminating the need for both an anode or yearly draining.
Something to remember though is; If you bought a 10 year tank and it bursts on the 11th year your insurance may not cover water damage. Replacing overdue hot water heaters in one's home is often considered maintenance. Best to check your policy.
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Old 02-09-2015, 01:17 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
In addition it should also be drained yearly to eliminate debris that settles at the bottom. Have not done that in 9 years. Interesting how we tend to maintain our trailers better than our home appliances??
No doubt that stems from hot water tanks used to last at least a dozen years (in this part of the woods) and cost just over a couple of hundred bucks. Now they're selling tanks with a 6 year warranty for over twice as much as they were only a few years ago. So maybe some folks will start paying a little more attention to the tank before they say "what's that water on the floor from"

An old garden watering wand with the spray head cut off works well too. If you're going to check the anode it only makes sense to give it a quick flush.

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Old 02-09-2015, 02:18 PM   #39
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Brian, a little off topic but where do you get 4 litre jugs of CLR equivalent.
Home Depot: Zep Calcium, Lime & Rust Remover 3.78L
Seems to be effectively the same thing as the original CLR.
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Old 02-09-2015, 02:25 PM   #40
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My understanding is that your home water heater also has an anode and that it should be inspected and replaced as required. Not that I have ever done that.
Probably just as well. A friend said that he was thinking of doing that. Since I was replacing a couple of tanks and had previously removed the brass from tanks before I junked them, I said "hold on, let me do an experiment". I tried removing the anode with the tank vertical, just as if it was still installed. It was in so tight that I would have twisted off the piping connected to it. In the end it took a 3' bar and the tank on its' side before I could break the anode free. There wasn't any anode left but the tank was over 20 years old, hadn't leaked and I was just upgrading before there was a problem. Maybe heat would have helped but I don't think I'll try that on a tank still in use if it's been in place for years and years.

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