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Old 04-04-2015, 10:10 PM   #21
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I web comparison shopped for materials to make rolling drawers for the pantry in Ten Forward. Does that count? Didn't get a dang thing done otherwise.
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Old 04-04-2015, 10:20 PM   #22
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Shopping counts!

One thing I really like about my Jeep - it doesn't have a key, just the remote thingy that stays in your pocket...all the time. And if someone is with me they get the spare. To unlock the door, you put your hand under the door latch. To lock it, you press a button on the latch. If the remote is inside the Jeep, it's impossible to lock the door. So I can leave the extra trailer keys inside the Jeep.

I must go out to my new Escape at least a half dozen times a day fiddling around with things! I love to press the button and see that the batteries are charged up. Today I vacuumed the cushions and floor after my earlier short trip with dirty pups. And bought a small propane grill. And found a plastic container to put the water hose in. And put the gaucho bunk back down and the small dinette back up.

Maybe tomorrow I'll put the bunk back up...
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Old 04-04-2015, 11:12 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
So just run a switched fused wire between black and green should do it? Now I got to find my auction box, maybe under my bed?
The junction box is probably located on the other side of the point where your 7 pin cable goes through the trailer into the interior.

Easy enough to test out. Just remove the Marrette wire connectors and put a hot wire to the, from memory, the green and brown. If both sides have the lights on those are the two to use. The only potential problem I could see doing it that way is that each one would have to have its' own switch otherwise all lights would flash when using the turn signals.

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Old 04-04-2015, 11:17 PM   #24
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Today I went around town (some of you call it shopping, but I don't) looking for a brake spoon (braking adjustment tool). Didn't find one anywhere, because, I guess, cars all have self-adjusting brakes.
But, I did score a set of towing mirrors for our new (for us) Escape tow vehicle, at the outrageously low clearance price of $7 ea. Yessss!
Then I contemplated how to mount the brake controller up where I can see it, without making any holes in the dash. I think I've got a solution, TBA.
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Old 04-05-2015, 06:08 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
I web comparison shopped for materials to make rolling drawers for the pantry in Ten Forward. Does that count? Didn't get a dang thing done otherwise.
Donna, I did a sliding drawer. Only issue was the set back sides that I had to build out to the edges of the opening are not square to the front. Just makes for some measuring. I used 100 lb full extension slides.
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Old 04-05-2015, 07:31 AM   #26
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Donna, I did a sliding drawer. Only issue was the set back sides that I had to build out to the edges of the opening are not square to the front. Just makes for some measuring. I used 100 lb full extension slides.
Wonderful Bob, that exactly what I want to do. Drawers in the pantry must make it so much more useful. Murphy's Law, everything I need is always at the very back.
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Old 04-05-2015, 08:04 AM   #27
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Yes, we've found just the one is enough for now.
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Old 04-05-2015, 09:46 AM   #28
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We're still waffling on the drawers in the pantry. For the moment I've installed temporary shelves and we use wicker baskets in place of drawers.

Shelves vs. drawers -- drawers make it easier to get to the stuff at the back, but good 100% extension slides are not cheap, and you lose some space to the slides, drawer sides, and space behind the face frame.
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Old 04-05-2015, 10:56 AM   #29
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What did you do for your Escape today?

"My fellow Americans, ask not what your Escape can do for you. Ask what you can do for your Escape."
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Old 04-05-2015, 11:57 AM   #30
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Boy, no neat modifications for me...

I think we are going to put the flip up countertop at the front where the 110 and 12v plugs are---have one at the bed area at the rear that is high enough to not bother us when it is made as a bed (my night table) but now we are putting the bed up and down every day (so easy with the travasak) Now we are actually using the large table, I didn't like the flip up table by the sink....

Otherwise I went out and cleaned and re-organized the inside again--I had taken all the cushions apart this winter and washed the covers (washer and dryer)--they went on great and look cleaner---the trailer is a 2008....

Trailer is still tarped...probably won't get washed/waxed till the beginning of May (although today is SO bright and beautiful---but other things on the agenda)

We use cheap $$ store bins in our wardrobe/
can stack them if the toaster oven is brought along...We know what is in each bin and just take out the one we want and root around in it.. Organized enough and usually towels stay behind them so even they aren't all the way to the back...
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Old 04-05-2015, 04:22 PM   #31
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My stinger has been loose in the receiver. There was some minor noise and I am sure some "slack action". My temporary solution had been to jam hack saw blades into the gap between stinger and receiver, this worked well but they would rust and it became a chore to remove stinger and reinsert.

They make a variety of hitch clamps that dampen the lose connections. Here is an example.

I read about a simpler method, drilling a 5/16 hole in the receiver, thread it for bolt and insert a galvanized screw/bolt to hold the stinger solid. I did this and I was disappointed with the results. It does not give the connection that rock solid feel that I wanted, still some slack. A couple of hours of enjoyment in the warm sun and the satisfaction of doing something I had not done before was what I took from this experience.

After writing this I am thinking about some further steps that I might take to improve the fix. I will consult with the engineering department after my nap.
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Old 04-05-2015, 04:34 PM   #32
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Would the nylon or plastic door shims(used when hanging new doors) work?
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Old 04-05-2015, 04:35 PM   #33
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This is what I used for the luggage carrier into the bicycle receiver. Tightened it up real well. However, I've not tried to remove it.
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Old 04-05-2015, 04:36 PM   #34
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Paul.
Etrailer has several hitch tighteners Saris Hitch Tite Anti-Rattle Hitch Pin for 2" Hitches Saris Hitch Accessories SA3021 and there are 2 more on this page. In addition they also have one that locks, I use this one with get results http://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Access...ero/63232.html
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Old 04-05-2015, 07:08 PM   #35
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I use this one.
Hitch tightener: no wobble, anti rattle stabilizer device for hitch accessories
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Old 04-05-2015, 08:09 PM   #36
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I haven't had to use anything, but if you're willing to drill a small hole, Draw-Tite's J-Pin looks interesting.
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Old 04-05-2015, 08:13 PM   #37
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Thanks

Thanks for the info on the can cooker! I moved my post to a new thread. Frog more stew sounds great! Good info on the latches.
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Old 04-05-2015, 08:15 PM   #38
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After my nap and a quick consultation with Engineering , I made a modification to my modification. On the attached photo you are looking at the receiver and stinger from the bottom You will note the cap screw with an allen head at the bottom of the photo. This is the modification, I drilled a 5/16ths opening and then used a 5/16ths tap to put threads into the opening.

My second modification was to do the same thing to the stinger, now instead of just the pressure of the cap screw against the stinger the cap screw goes through the receiver and screws into the stinger. This has made the wobble disappear between stinger and receiver. Even though I have a locking mechanism holding the stinger, there is now a second method of preventing a thief from removing the stinger and stealing the trailer.
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Old 04-05-2015, 08:23 PM   #39
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Paul, good idea, but you may want to add one on the side also, that way both planes are covered. Also will the aluminum hold up better than a steel hex?
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Old 04-05-2015, 08:47 PM   #40
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Yes, Jim I am evaluating a second screw. Not sure if I have enough room and the correct angles to drill. They are steel, stainless steel. Looks like aluminum in the photo.
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