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Old 08-16-2014, 12:14 PM   #121
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I need a little more help. Here is a Dometic drawing of my fridge. Where exactly is the area the open flame is located? Choose A, B, or C.

I assume this flame is not truly out in the open. Baffle wise, thinking it's good to know what to stay clear of. Note the date of the publication-- pretty old. No doubt many changes since?
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Old 08-16-2014, 12:18 PM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
I need a little more help. Here is a Dometic drawing of my fridge. Where exactly is the area the open flame is located? Choose A, B, or C.

I understand this flame is not truly out in the open. Baffle wise, thinking it's good to know what to stay clear of. Note the date of the publication-- pretty old. No doubt many changes since?
C area, far right at the base of the round sheet metal chimney.
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Old 08-16-2014, 12:27 PM   #123
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Ah, thanks Charlie. That explains a lot. Dave of Corrales was showing me the wood "shelf baffle" he tore out (he's got the 4.3) which was tacked into the shell across at the top of the vent opening. I do not have such a baffle in mine, but I picked up my 19 only a month after he got his 19.
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Old 08-16-2014, 01:44 PM   #124
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Correct on the location. The heat source that powers the absorption system (in this case the LP flame) is applied to the 'generator' - a tank at the bottom of the cooling system that contains an ammonia/water mixture. Heat is applied in 3 way fridges by either LP, or an electrical coil heated by AC or DC. The main reason why the fridges run better on propane is that the flame is more efficient at generating heat than a coil is.
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Old 08-16-2014, 03:54 PM   #125
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Much appreciate your replies, Charlie, Abe. This confirms when I slide my plastic baffle in since it will be mostly glued to the shell and therefore at least 3-4 inches from the flame in the chimney the probability of it getting (too) hot is minimal. Down there at area C is also where I plan to add a fan.
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Old 08-17-2014, 01:29 PM   #126
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Myron

The flue "exhaust" is at the far right of your picture from the little T fitting on top of the barrel. In the real world this is located toward the top of the fridge on the right side. The flame itself is at the bottom of that barrel on the right side toward the bottom of the fridge.
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Old 08-19-2014, 12:13 PM   #127
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Well today I took the battery cover off to check the electrolyte levels. I found that the top has some foam panels that are supposed to seal the top, mine had come off and were laying on the battery, so check yours and reattach if needed. The box should hold these strip in place. I then went and got some distilled water as all my holes were low. The plates were covered but I was able to add about a .5 inch to each hole. Due to limited access I obtained a ketchup bottle @ $1 store and attached a short plastic hose. I used a mirror to look at the rear 2 holes and filled all 6 to the required level. I also notice that ETI secured the front/rear of the battery with wood blocks but there was room for movement side to side, so I placed 2 more small blocks in the box to keep the battery in place. Another job completed.
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Old 08-19-2014, 12:25 PM   #128
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Took out 4 fir trees, added 6 dump trucks of dirt and smoothed out the field to give me more swing radius for the 21 than I needed with the single-axle 17 Casita. Felicitys' house is 30 ft deep by 14 wide by 16 high at the front.
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Old 08-19-2014, 12:35 PM   #129
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A turkey baster works great for adding water to the cells. I have a big ass syringe now that I use though.
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Old 08-19-2014, 12:48 PM   #130
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I used my hydrometer to add water.
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