What is that vinyl stuff on the walls? ....... - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 04-24-2016, 03:19 AM   #11
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Me too Bob.
I just want to know what happens if..........?
One of the things that appeals to me with Escape is that as a solo RVer, I think I can do a lot of future repairs myself. And the realist inside me knows that in time repairs are going to be needed.
But I am not sure how one would dry out wet lining. Or replace if a leak did go undetected and mold evolves?
So I really appreciate all these answers.
Rosalyn
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Old 04-24-2016, 11:49 AM   #12
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being a rv newbie I had many of the same concerns you did concerning the foam,liner and adhesive. When considering a Casita they provide me with a sample of the material, the specifications for the materials including the carpet and foam backing. They were very out front with the fact that in previous years the adhesive used to attache the material to the fiberglass had failed in some instances, but the problem was resolved when they switched to a better marine adhesive. Obviously the Escape uses a vinyl rather than the carpet as a liner, but it still has a foam backing and the optional extra thermal layer. Have not seen any specs on the adhesive, perhaps some of the other Escapes may know if it's a marine adhesive and how good it is. Escape has indicated they have a new optional thermal layer material for 2017 so what that is has not been revealed nor the specs for it. Hope to learn more about this prior to completing a build sheet next year, but since the 2017 model has a new optional thermal layer... how well
the adhesive bonds fiberglass> thermal layer OVER TIME
and
the adhesive bonds thermal layer>foam vinyl backing OVER TIME
is also not documented and therefore 2017 buyers may be lab rats for this as well. As a buyer of any product , one can only hope the mfg has done their homework. With regard to a major fix if one was required for these flexible interior type trailers, my guess is that you would end up at the factory for either the Escape fix or a Casita fix and what it would cost is yours to guess. Like another post indicated, maintenance and visual inspection where possible is about all the user can do and hopefully stop a minor problem from turning into a major problem. While the double hull fiberglass trailer designs may seem to mitigate these concerns..one can only guess how you access the inside of the outer hull if need be.....
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Old 04-24-2016, 12:41 PM   #13
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I agree FreeSpirit! I know people say Oliver is the "best", but I sure wouldnt want to have to figure out how to get in between two fiberglass hulls for any repair.
Thanks for sharing.
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Old 04-24-2016, 12:51 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Rosalyn View Post
I agree FreeSpirit! I know people say Oliver is the "best", but I sure wouldnt want to have to figure out how to get in between two fiberglass hulls for any repair.
Thanks for sharing.
The Oliver is made to drain between the two shells if the exterior leaks. Technomadia asked them direct about this.
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Old 04-24-2016, 01:13 PM   #15
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I agree FreeSpirit! I know people say Oliver is the "best", but I sure wouldnt want to have to figure out how to get in between two fiberglass hulls for any repair.
Thanks for sharing.
With all trailers you must visually look for potential leaks regularly. Driving on any roads will break down joints and parts due to the dissimilar materials expansion/contraction, vibrations, twisting, impacts, etc.

On stick buiilts they use the sandwich contruction to give it strength, when it gets moisture between the layers it weakens and they sag ... which accelerates the process.

With a fiberglass trailer single or double it will not corrode or rot and loose it's strength. Might get some mold. With an Escape you can slice the headliner to inspect, reattach, etc. and then use plastic snap buttons or rails to dress up the slice(s). If you go to marine supply sites and check out headliners you will see the same type of product ETI uses and attachment 'systems' to add to your contact adhesive.

There are headliner grade contact adhesives that don't weaken with heat. On our 2014 19' it must have the common contact adhesive that can be softened with heat to remove the layers. On our trailer the forward section is sagging, the rear with the solar panel over it is not. ETI is continuing to change materials and methods so each trailer can be different in subtle or not so subtle ways.

When we had our first 'bad' condensation night I was puzzle why our Scamp had condensation on windows but never on the 'rat fur'. I called Scamp and they said the 'rat fur' or 'carpet' is attached to the cold surface and due to the length of the fibers are less cold and do not present a flat cold surface. They said that they specifically chose the 'rat fur' to minimize condensation on the walls.

Air flow definitely helps, but doesn't eliminate condensation on the vinyl. This is especially true in the cabinets and other areas (around the mattress) where the air flow is minimal.

Our solution is keeping the temperature inside the trailer above the dew point. I find low 50's usually does it. The furnace wakes us so I added an electric plate wall heater and a second propane furnace with lower output and quieter cycling.

Every trailer has it's pros and cons. The ETI products are no exception. The 'sales team' on this Forum tries, at times, to make a joke or tell you it's not important. Your questions are will thought out and relevant to all of the owners.
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Old 04-24-2016, 01:16 PM   #16
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The Oliver is made to drain between the two shells if the exterior leaks. Technomadia asked them direct about this.
Trapped air is the best insulator so they have this figured out! WOW no 'rat fur' required!
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Old 04-24-2016, 04:32 PM   #17
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I've been on this forum since inception, almost eight years ago, and I do not recall any post about water getting between the hull and liner or causing mold.
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Old 04-24-2016, 04:49 PM   #18
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Thanks for that information, Glen. I hadn't seen any myself, but you've been working on the forum for a lot longer and working as a moderator as well, so it gives me some confidence that water getting between the vinyl/insulation and the fibreglass is unlikely. Considering all the Escapes out there, I would have expected at least a few where this had happened and surely the owners would have posted on this forum.

Bob K
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Old 04-24-2016, 07:24 PM   #19
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I've been on this forum since inception, almost eight years ago, and I do not recall any post about water getting between the hull and liner or causing mold.
Let's say you have 'separation' as Donna D. says is 'common' in FGRVs, see post #5: "This seperation is VERY common with all molded towables, of any age. Just read the archives on FiberglassRV. OH my stars."

Headliner Separation and Sagging

Then it's only a matter of time until a little condensation grows some mold.

Here's some good mold tips:

http://www.rvt.com/articles/rvarticle.php?article=11
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Old 04-24-2016, 08:22 PM   #20
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The Oliver is made to drain between the two shells if the exterior leaks. Technomadia asked them direct about this.
That also is why the solar is bolted through the top shell never going through to inside shell . You also can get on your roof , it is pretty strong . Oliver that is .Pat
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