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Old 11-16-2016, 03:08 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Good, but for a novice just wanting to hit a specific torque (specifically for wheel nuts), I think the micrometer type is a lot easier to use than reading the pointer position on a beam-type.

I hope all of these things ride around in a protective case (mine does), but if they ever get banged around - something that shouldn't happen - it seems like the pointer of a beam-type is more likely to get damaged.
I was a mechanic for 38 years (actually I guess I still am one) and I used to use a beam type to check my micrometer wrench for accuracy (put an 8 point socket on it an hook them together). I read somewhere once that a beam never goes out of calibration as long as the pointer points to "0" and it does not rub. I vote for the beam type especially since if you don't have one you can pick one up cheap and just leave it in the trailer. They are plenty accurate for lug nuts.
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Old 11-16-2016, 03:15 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Good, but for a novice just wanting to hit a specific torque (specifically for wheel nuts), I think the micrometer type is a lot easier to use than reading the pointer position on a beam-type.

I hope all of these things ride around in a protective case (mine does), but if they ever get banged around - something that shouldn't happen - it seems like the pointer of a beam-type is more likely to get damaged.
It looks like I'm in danger of getting reported to the Cruelty to Torque Wrench Society. I have 3 beam type that have never been in a protective case. Neither have my micrometer type. After 50 years of using beam type, one lives in the trailer, I thought that I'd be past the novice stage. Oh well, I'll just keep practicing.

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Old 11-16-2016, 03:38 PM   #63
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I just take my trailer to the winner of the annual torquing contest held at the Mississippi River Rally, she out torqued al the men for accuracy.....
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Old 11-16-2016, 04:10 PM   #64
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All this talk about torquing nuts reminds me of an old skit on SNL about the importance of cork soaking and the popularity of those who actually soak corks. A very funny skit........
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Old 11-16-2016, 04:24 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by sunrisetrucker View Post
Brian I've had a beam-type for years, learned how to use it in shop class in high school, and it has served me well. I recently bought a micrometer-type and it certainly has it's good points, but I'll never be without my old one.
Sounds good to me but when I was in junior high and high school, girls couldn't take shop, so I didn't learn anything unless my dad taught it to me- and I don't think he owned a torque wrench (or I'd have it now).
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Old 11-16-2016, 04:44 PM   #66
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... Make sure that you do get the Teflon tape to put back your water heater anode. Also need a tool for that, socket wrench I think 1 1/16". Someone else confirm, please.
1 1/16" is correct. Or a 27mm socket will also work. (Replaced my anode last week. Just in time, too. )


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Old 11-16-2016, 05:00 PM   #67
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.....Not sure what you are supposed to ask for these days if you want tape to seal your duct work. Might have to ask that old bugger at HD.
It has to be UL 181B Listed tape. (Which is what we would expect the answer to be characterized as, now days!)
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Old 11-16-2016, 05:20 PM   #68
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What's wrong with a beam type? Hard to use? They are so simple even I can use one. You don't even have to set it up, just put on a socket and push or pull. Might not be quite as accurate, but these are lug nuts, not head bolts.

Easy to damage? Don't see anything delicate on mine.
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Old 11-16-2016, 06:12 PM   #69
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Old 11-16-2016, 06:34 PM   #70
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I've never heard of a broken micrometer-type torque wrench; I have heard of damaged pointers on beam-type wrenches. Maybe it's not an issue, and baglo is just a klutz?

Quote:
Originally Posted by AKCamper View Post
I was a mechanic for 38 years (actually I guess I still am one) and I used to use a beam type to check my micrometer wrench for accuracy (put an 8 point socket on it an hook them together). I read somewhere once that a beam never goes out of calibration as long as the pointer points to "0" and it does not rub.
I agree about staying in calibration; it depends only on the spring stiffness and zero setting, and the spring is the beam so that doesn't change with time. The same is true of a click/micrometer type wrench, but the zero can drift if the wrench is left set, rather than returning it to zero after each use.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AKCamper View Post
I vote for the beam type especially since if you don't have one you can pick one up cheap and just leave it in the trailer. They are plenty accurate for lug nuts.
Both types are available cheaply; both types are more than accurate enough.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
It looks like I'm in danger of getting reported to the Cruelty to Torque Wrench Society.


Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
What's wrong with a beam type? Hard to use? They are so simple even I can use one.
It's certainly simple - you just have to read the quivering needle against the scale while applying torque.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbie54 View Post
So back to those torque wrenches- is there a preferred brand?
So, Bobbie... it seems the consensus is to buy anything called a "torque wrench" with a 1/2" drive end, and be happy.
As for the brand... if you're buying really cheap, I see an advantage of the beam-type: as long as the scale is printed at the right size, there's nothing to mess up in the design, so it's the safe way to go.
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