1 or 2 solar panels??

[CarlNH]

Jeff, that is an awesome plan! Out of curiosity, did you have ETI do any pre-wiring or mounting brackets? I would think snaking the wiring after the trailer is built could be difficult? I'm still in the build sheet phase and do want solar but would like to optimize to whatever extent is feasible. Thanks!!

[sclifrickson]

I believe ETI also adds structural roof reinforcement when they build a unit for solar. Which cannot be retrofitted after the fact.

[jking1224]

Originally Posted by sclifrickson

Wow, Jeff, that sounds crazy impressive! Do such mounts already exist or are you designing these from scratch? Would love to see lots of pics when you get that around.

I don't know what mounts will be needed, or if they exist. This is simple metal pieces. L bracket shaped "feet". Hinges for the un-folding. Straight flat bar for the tilt arms. Its not like a complex 3-D metal component needs to be machined. I'll look into what solar vendors like AMSolar offer, plus some hinges and some straight pieces from the HomeDepot metals rack, nuts, bolts, thumb screws. That ought about cover it.

[CoolCampingKid]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

I like the Lensun portable. It weighs about 8 lbs and stores easily. I had some QC problems with the first unit they shipped but they took care of it. I'm really pleased with the panels and they seem to be the best available on the market. I like the ETFE construction, light, tough, and picks up sunlight from a wider angle than the glass panels.

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f3...nel-10725.html

I personally really like the Lensun monocrystalline 100 watt panel (can be purchased without controller). It easily folds up to fit under my steps of my 5.0ta! It weighs less than 5 lbs. I have installed the Zamp port (10 gauge) in the side of the 5.0ta and connected it directly to the ETI installed solar controller.
Keep in mind the difference between polycrystalline and monocrystalline. Mono being much more efficient thus smaller for the same wattage but is more expensive (might want to research this). Also the mono will put out more if it is partially shaded. Also something to keep in mind is voltage drop through smaller gauge wire thus why I used the 10 gauge Zamp port .... I also purchased two 15 foot 10 gauge extensions (shorter wires will not have as much voltage drop as longer ones) , so I could only use as much as I needed and not extra. Being able to face the panel directly at the sun makes it much more efficient; a portable panel provides this. ETI installs polycrystalline panels and work fine but can not be directed at the sun (unless some sort of tilt system like AM Solar sells). Bill

[CarlNH]

Right, I believe that is correct. Guess that is a really good reason to get the ETI panels installed at build time. I don't think they will do any pre-install stuff for the second (rear) panel unless the panel is purchased. Thanks.

Originally Posted by sclifrickson

I believe ETI also adds structural roof reinforcement when they build a unit for solar. Which cannot be retrofitted after the fact.

[jking1224]

Originally Posted by CarlNH

Jeff, that is an awesome plan! Out of curiosity, did you have ETI do any pre-wiring or mounting brackets? I would think snaking the wiring after the trailer is built could be difficult? I'm still in the build sheet phase and do want solar but would like to optimize to whatever extent is feasible. Thanks!!

I had ETI do the option called “Solar Ready”. Now that I own the trailer and have examined it, I see the following:

MC4 connector block mounted on the roof. Surface mount device properly sealed, ready to accept MC4 connectors.

6.0mm^2 PV cable run from the driver side roof, down through a drilled hole (under the MC4 block), run through the upper cabinet (visible inside the cabinet) to the passenger side under bench. The cables are just tied up in that space, ready to go into a fuse block and onto the charge controller. So, just naked cables in place. All other components left up to me.

They state they also reinforce the roof for a rear mounted panel. I am assuming this is the wood blocking others have referred to, but it would be in the curved section of the roof, inside the cabinets, beneath the vinyl roof liner material. So, it is not readily visible or able to distinguish from other structures.

I assume they did nothing to the forward roof area for reinforcement.

I had assumed they would run the wires into the refrigerator vent, but I am fine with the surface block.

I have not yet determined if that gauge of wire is enough for my plans, or if I would have to run additional wire myself. Now that I see how ETI did it, adding more wouldn’t be too difficult.

In addition to what I stated earlier, my idea is for the panel roof mounting to involve a fairly large mounting “plate” for each corner of the panel. Spread the load out as much as possible. Then the small “L” bracket foot would bolt to that. Whether I go all the way through the roof, with a large vendor washer like fastener on the inside or not, I haven’t decided.


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[Kingbiscuit]

Just my opinion but if you're installing solar, install as much as you can afford and fit while doing it. Solar panels do not produce their rated capacity 100% 0f the time, even in optimal conditions. If your power consumption plans include solar, more is better and you'll be a happy camper.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by jking1224

I had ETI do the option called “Solar Ready”. Now that I own the trailer and have examined it, I see the following:

MC4 connector block mounted on the roof. Surface mount device properly sealed, ready to accept MC4 connectors.k

They were going to do that for me too, but did not have the Cable Entry Plate in stock yet, so Reace supplied it to me later and I installed it myself when I did my solar. A very robust system, I really liked it. I did mention it in a write up I did on my solar install.

Cable Entry Plate | Go Power!

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...ion-10273.html

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by jking1224

MC4 connector block mounted on the roof. Surface mount device properly sealed, ready to accept MC4 connectors.

I bought the same Go Power MC4 connector block and need to know where to mount it. Could you post a pic of where Escape mounted the block so I could get an idea of where to mount mine?

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Kingbiscuit

...Solar panels do not produce their rated capacity 100% 0f the time, even in optimal conditions...

massive understatement. the rated power is the PEAK output with the panel perpendicular to a high noon summer sun at a lower latitude on a very clear day. a flat mounted panel, its pretty safe to assume total output will be maybe 8 hours of average 30% of this, so a 160W panel will likely produce around 400 watt*hours total per day. dual golf cart batteries discharged to the 'safe' 50% level will need 14V * 100AH == 1400 watt*hours to recharge.

[Kingbiscuit]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

massive understatement. the rated power is the PEAK output with the panel perpendicular to a high noon summer sun at a lower latitude on a very clear day. a flat mounted panel, its pretty safe to assume total output will be maybe 8 hours of average 30% of this, so a 160W panel will likely produce around 400 watt*hours total per day. dual golf cart batteries discharged to the 'safe' 50% level will need 14V * 100AH == 1400 watt*hours to recharge.

I was trying to be kind. LOL

[jking1224]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

I bought the same Go Power MC4 connector block and need to know where to mount it. Could you post a pic of where Escape mounted the block so I could get an idea of where to mount mine?

Here is the MC4 port on the roof of my Escape 21, built Nov 2017 with the "Solar Ready" option.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by jking1224

MC4 connector block mounted on the roof. Surface mount device properly sealed, ready to accept MC4 connectors.

6.0mm^2 PV cable run from the driver side roof, down through a drilled hole (under the MC4 block), run through the upper cabinet (visible inside the cabinet) to the passenger side under bench.

Thanks! That makes sense to mount it there but I'll will probably run my solar wiring down the fridge cavity, out by the water pump, and then over to the solar controller mounted mid rear bench. There is already a cable run along the back of the bench - I'll just follow it to the controller as in the pic. I'm trying to keep the wire run as short as possible. Also, that runs the wiring by the drivers side hatch so that I can access the solar wiring to connect to my portable solar panel.