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Old 12-23-2018, 07:03 PM   #1
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12V outlets swapped for 12V with USB

For a little bit more convenience for phone charging etc. I swapped out the simple 12V outlets for outlets with dual USB ports. These are the same ones that Escape uses when you order the upgraded outlets. The secondary advantage is that there is a full enclosure on the back so all electrical is contained. The basic ones that Escape installs have the terminals exposed. Since these typically land in cabinets there is a chance that the terminals can be shorted and blow the fuse in the power center. Did this once with a pot handle. Was able to use the cover plate as a template for cutting the paneling. Used a sharp utility knife. Was able to catch one side of each on a cabinet frame member. The other side I glued a small wood block in for support. Thought it came out nice. These are rated for 120W total. I’ll likely swap out the 120V outlets and TV coax cover from white to black to match.

https://www.amazon.com/MOUNT-12V-VPA...71230922&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-80401...HBN57NEWFAPC05
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Old 12-24-2018, 06:58 AM   #2
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Nice work Dave,
This is something I plan on doing next summer as I ordered 5 extra 12v round outlets. The price for a 12v run ($50) and the round outlet is the same. since I plan on getting access to the 12v power behind the outlet for cabinet LED's this was my thinking. Any area not needing the LED's will be converted to the USB/round outlet. I plan on asking ETI for a scrap piece of paneling to use as a backer plate if needed.
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Old 12-24-2018, 07:21 AM   #3
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The outlet looks to be available in white from importer or Amazon.
Eddie
WC-12V Black or White

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SVVQHKW...d-a3f4d08ced8f
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Old 12-24-2018, 07:25 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Nice work Dave,
This is something I plan on doing next summer as I ordered 5 extra 12v round outlets. The price for a 12v run ($50) and the round outlet is the same. since I plan on getting access to the 12v power behind the outlet for cabinet LED's this was my thinking. Any area not needing the LED's will be converted to the USB/round outlet. I plan on asking ETI for a scrap piece of paneling to use as a backer plate if needed.
Jim: Something to keep in mind is that ETI has a backer plate glued on the backside. This needs to be removed to make the rectangular cutout for the Magnadyne unit. A new backer plate should be stronger than a piece of the ETI paneling. I used some 1/2” wood trim I had lying around. Also if you ask maybe ETI can leave some more wiring slack behind the outlets, especially since you are planning to tap it for cabinet LED’s. I was just barely able to pull the wiring out and make my new connections on the outlet. No fun trying to crimp inside the cabinet or other tight spot.
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Old 12-24-2018, 07:27 AM   #5
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The outlet looks to be available in white from importer or Amazon.
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WC-12V Black or White

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SVVQHKW...d-a3f4d08ced8f
Yes that is the unit. I bought the black not thinking how close in proximity they were to white 120V outlets. Really like the black and will be going to Home Depot this morning for new outlets.
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Old 12-24-2018, 07:48 AM   #6
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I’ve added a few 12V/USB Interior Outlets ($75.00 each) to my buildsheet. Even one outside, near the standard AC receptacle. Not necessarily to save money due to my high labor cost, or aching old age ailments, but mostly to add charging stations at spots most likely to need them. Plus (sometimes) it’s nice to have someone do it for ya.

We usually have full hookups, so I also plan to put in or swap regular outlets for some AC/USB outlets, as needed. I especially hope to install a power outlet with AC/USB ports in the rear portion of the kitchen countertop. Maybe a pop up style; like some of you guys have done. ETI won’t do that for new builds.

Or even a flat, surface-type AC/USB outlet in the kitchen counter. In a GFCI circuit, of course. It wouldn’t be bad to have some sort of cover; maybe a childproof plug, to keep crud and water out (as much as possible). Caulking the perimeter under the flange might not be a bad idea either.

AC/USB; new name for a group.
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Old 12-24-2018, 11:27 AM   #7
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I like having these in the camper but I find that the more LEDs that are on all the time tends to light up the inside at night. When I installed these USB outlets I clipped the wire to the LED so that it did not work. This did not change the functionality of the outlet it just made the LED dark! Just my 2 cents. Bill
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Old 12-24-2018, 11:32 AM   #8
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and there are those of us who install extra red leds lights for night time trips to the bath
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Old 12-24-2018, 11:54 AM   #9
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Yes that is the unit. I bought the black not thinking how close in proximity they were to white 120V outlets. Really like the black and will be going to Home Depot this morning for new outlets.
New Decora outlets in black to match. Since Escape used regular outlets in a traditional outlet box this was an easy swap with some parts from Home Depot. Now I can consider this complete.
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Old 12-24-2018, 12:00 PM   #10
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We usually have full hookups, so I also plan to put in or swap regular outlets for some AC/USB outlets, as needed. I especially hope to install a power outlet with AC/USB ports in the rear portion of the kitchen countertop. Maybe a pop up style; like some of you guys have done. ETI won’t do that for new builds.

Or even a flat, surface-type AC/USB outlet in the kitchen counter. In a GFCI circuit, of course. It wouldn’t be bad to have some sort of cover; maybe a childproof plug, to keep crud and water out (as much as possible). Caulking the perimeter under the flange might not be a bad idea either..
You may have seen this. They have them with USB’s too.
Galley retractable receptacle
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Old 12-24-2018, 12:04 PM   #11
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I like having these in the camper but I find that the more LEDs that are on all the time tends to light up the inside at night. When I installed these USB outlets I clipped the wire to the LED so that it did not work. This did not change the functionality of the outlet it just made the LED dark! Just my 2 cents. Bill
Good point. Since one of these is up over the bed it might just need a small piece of electrical tape over it if it is a bother.
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Old 12-24-2018, 12:06 PM   #12
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Jim: Something to keep in mind is that ETI has a backer plate glued on the backside. This needs to be removed to make the rectangular cutout for the Magnadyne unit. A new backer plate should be stronger than a piece of the ETI paneling. I used some 1/2” wood trim I had lying around. Also if you ask maybe ETI can leave some more wiring slack behind the outlets, especially since you are planning to tap it for cabinet LED’s. I was just barely able to pull the wiring out and make my new connections on the outlet. No fun trying to crimp inside the cabinet or other tight spot.
Another option is to keep the stock mount and just replace the round outlet with one of these...
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Old 12-24-2018, 12:19 PM   #13
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Another option is to keep the stock mount and just replace the round outlet with one of these...
True, but unless it has a rectangular face plate you will have two screw holes in the paneling left behind.
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Old 12-24-2018, 02:05 PM   #14
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For some reason I thought the round piece just unscrewed, leaving just the hole in the existing faceplate, thus allowing the replacement to screw in? I'll have to wait and see what works.
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Old 12-24-2018, 02:17 PM   #15
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For some reason I thought the round piece just unscrewed, leaving just the hole in the existing faceplate, thus allowing the replacement to screw in? I'll have to wait and see what works.
My Escape provided 12V receptacles (without USB) have a 1 1/2" X 2 5/8" chrome faceplate, attached with two screws.
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Old 12-24-2018, 02:25 PM   #16
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this was my cigar + USB addition. additional DC power station

I used a piece of 1/4" hardwood 'hobby plywood' that I found at the hardware store as a 6x9" or something piece, cut a 3x6 ro so piece to use as the backing, then a 1" hole saw to cut through both the luan and backing board for each hole, after drilling pilot holes... this worked quite nicely.
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Old 12-24-2018, 02:42 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
For some reason I thought the round piece just unscrewed, leaving just the hole in the existing faceplate, thus allowing the replacement to screw in? I'll have to wait and see what works.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
My Escape provided 12V receptacles (without USB) have a 1 1/2" X 2 5/8" chrome faceplate, attached with two screws.
Take a look at the last picture in post #1 to see what you are dealing with. Those are the original ones I removed. I believe ETI still uses these.
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Old 12-24-2018, 03:26 PM   #18
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Yes, I believe in the picture you can unscrew the front off the socket and remove from the faceplate and install another socket in the faceplate. I have taken them apart, it is comprised of 3 pieces, the faceplate, a holding ring and the socket itself.
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Old 12-24-2018, 03:35 PM   #19
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Yes, I believe in the picture you can unscrew the front off the socket and remove from the faceplate and install another socket in the faceplate. I have taken them apart, it is comprised of 3 pieces, the faceplate, a holding ring and the socket itself.
the marine style round things require a 1-1/8" hole. you can get faceplates for 1-2-3-4 of these, like my triple, but they aren't NEMA outlet sized.
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Old 12-24-2018, 03:40 PM   #20
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Here, I found one in my garage..actually there are 4 pieces, the faceplate, the socket, a screw on shroud, and the retaining ring. The socket is the positive and the shroud is the negative
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