5.0 TA landing gear control modification - Page 3 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 04-15-2016, 07:45 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
One could even put a socket on each side of the trailer, to be able to use the switches at whichever side is more convenient... just in case one is raising the front to level and needs to watch clearance one side at the back.
I just realized that Barry put his socket in the front (propane) compartment, not in the jack switch compartment at one side, so with a moderate length of cable he can already stand on either side using that one socket.
Nicely done, Barry.
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Old 04-15-2016, 08:02 PM   #22
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I don't get the 4-way switch reference though, as all they are is a line, or traveller, transfer switch. Do my lights on these circuits come on backwards when the 4-way is switched?
Each switch in the lineup of a traveler setup switches the power to one of the two traveler wires. The three-ways at each end are simple, but the 4-ways in the middle have this "crossover" wiring: both traveler wires are always connected through the switch, but the switch position determines whether the two trade places (crossover). The light only comes on when there is a complete path from one end to the other; if you did this with train tracks the only two choices would be to crash into a closed switch at the end, or to make it through... and changing the position of any of the switches would change whether you crash at the end (light off) or make it (light on).

This is only switching the hot side, so even if you wired a DC light this way (and you could) it wouldn't be reversed because the negative side of the light would always be connected to ground, and the positive side would always be connected to the switch train.


Of course the other explanation is that when the switches are the wrong way, the light does come on backwards, but you think it's off because you can't see anti-light
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Old 04-15-2016, 08:53 PM   #23
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The switch has to have both negative and positive on it. I attached a pick of the switch. The top two terminals are positive and negative, the middle two are the motor. The bottom two are crossed over from the positive and negative. It is a single winding motor so reversing politarty reverses direction. I used an available(Northern Tool) 7 pin cable and mating recepticle. This cable has 2 #10, 1 #12, and 4 #14. I used the #10 pair for the DC supply to switch box, and then the #14 wires for the rest of the circuit(2 for each motor). Since you do not run the motors very long the 14 ga wire will handle the 28 A just fine. The motors operate well. The only real snag is the switches in the box are very snug because of the stright insulated crimp on connectors i had available. The cover is a 2 gang blank thermoplastic plate which is flexible so the wiring causes the switches to not be flat. If you look close you can see it in my origional post. I plan to aquire 90 degree female crimp connectors which will allow me a little more clearance. If that does not work I will put the switches in a metal cover. The cord is 4' and allows me to stand to either side and not be under the 5 th wheel area, which could be dangerious if the gear would fail.
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Old 04-15-2016, 10:00 PM   #24
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If anyone wants to be able to use much lighter cable and connector, they could use reversing relays mounted in place of the stock switches, and a much lighter-gauge cable to a more compact set of switches carrying only control power for the relays.
I had contemplated this idea too, as it is done with a lot of much heavier equipment than the landing gear motors. Something to consider.
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Old 04-15-2016, 10:02 PM   #25
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The switch has to have both negative and positive on it. I attached a pick of the switch. The top two terminals are positive and negative, the middle two are the motor. The bottom two are crossed over from the positive and negative. It is a single winding motor so reversing politarty reverses direction. I used an available(Northern Tool) 7 pin cable and mating recepticle. This cable has 2 #10, 1 #12, and 4 #14. I used the #10 pair for the DC supply to switch box, and then the #14 wires for the rest of the circuit(2 for each motor). Since you do not run the motors very long the 14 ga wire will handle the 28 A just fine. The motors operate well. The only real snag is the switches in the box are very snug because of the stright insulated crimp on connectors i had available. The cover is a 2 gang blank thermoplastic plate which is flexible so the wiring causes the switches to not be flat. If you look close you can see it in my origional post. I plan to aquire 90 degree female crimp connectors which will allow me a little more clearance. If that does not work I will put the switches in a metal cover. The cord is 4' and allows me to stand to either side and not be under the 5 th wheel area, which could be dangerious if the gear would fail.
Thanks for explaining what you did. Things are much clearer to me now.
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Old 04-15-2016, 10:16 PM   #26
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I carry a small mirror to see the other side, easy peasy!
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Old 04-15-2016, 10:20 PM   #27
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I carry a small mirror to see the other side, easy peasy!
I'm with you Vicki! While this is a neato mod, my mirror works just fine. And I keep it in the hatch with the landing gear switches.
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Old 04-15-2016, 10:28 PM   #28
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You two ladies is just plain boring. We all need to make Tim Taylor proud, and soup things up a bit.

Okay, no we don't, but it sure is fun scheming and planning.
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Old 04-16-2016, 01:56 AM   #29
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Thanks for the details, Barry.
You even covered the crossover jumpers, the common + and - supply, and the use of the different conductors in the 7-conductor cable (with the common circuits potentially carrying double current on the thicker conductors).
So, no surprises.
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Old 04-16-2016, 06:55 AM   #30
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You two ladies is just plain boring. We all need to make Tim Taylor proud, and soup things up a bit.

Okay, no we don't, but it sure is fun scheming and planning.
It IS a neat mod. With my rememberer slowly going away with age . I'd probably end up leaving the switch and connector at home. Wined, wined, wined... crank, crank, crank. Or do the switches inside the hatch still operate?
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