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Old 07-16-2016, 05:02 PM   #381
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Kinda reminds me of that Star Trek episode where that cornucopia looking thing was sucking the Enterprise into it's opening.
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Old 07-17-2016, 05:51 PM   #382
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Yes plug pushes in far enough to close hatch door.

...Despite that thick bulk of electrical tape I wrapped around end of the cord a year or more ago because rubber pulled out of the plug. (P.S. same thing happened to my 7-pin cord.)

Maybe I should mention that after cutting the 5/8-inch hole for the cord I used a razor knife to cut 8 each ½-inch slits around the hole in the rubber.
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Old 07-17-2016, 07:31 PM   #383
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Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
Yes plug pushes in far enough to close hatch door.

...Despite that thick bulk of electrical tape I wrapped around end of the cord a year or more ago because rubber pulled out of the plug. (P.S. same thing happened to my 7-pin cord.)

Maybe I should mention that after cutting the 5/8-inch hole for the cord I used a razor knife to cut 8 each ½-inch slits around the hole in the rubber.
One solution for the cord pulling out of the connector is to allow the cord to warm in the sun, then slide the cord cover towards the connector. If you work your way up the cord you can usually slide it back into the connector. A bit of glue can help keep it there (I've successfully used Shoe Goo).
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Old 07-19-2016, 01:27 PM   #384
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Thanks for the heads up, Jon. Picked up a tube of Boots&Gloves at HD and applied it today. Evil messy vile stuff, sticks to skin, but does the job.
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Old 07-19-2016, 01:58 PM   #385
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Picked up a tube of Boots&Gloves at HD and applied it today. Evil messy vile stuff, sticks to skin, but does the job.
It's not at all apparent to me whether the appropriate product is Shoe Goo's Boots & Gloves, or the original Shoe Goo. Boots & Gloves is described as a product for coating, rather than filling gaps, but the characteristics claimed by the manufacturer are essentially the same.

Myron, why did you choose the Boots & Gloves?

It might not matter for me... all of the sources I've checked (Home Depot, Canadian Tire, Walmart) carry only the regular version in Canada, not Boots & Gloves.
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Old 07-19-2016, 03:10 PM   #386
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In Home Depot here it's the only contact adhesive I could find for "repairs and protects...rubber...etc", and the label said it was "Original Shoe Goo" product. When it also said "...forms an immediate bond that is difficult to reposition" and "allow to cure 24 to 72 hours," that sold me. $4+beans.

You're right, the product's likely all the same despite having different packaging. Maybe in my version they added a scent of boots and gloves as a comforting agent.
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Old 07-19-2016, 03:49 PM   #387
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In Home Depot here it's the only contact adhesive I could find for "repairs and protects...rubber...etc", and the label said it was "Original Shoe Goo" product. When it also said "...forms an immediate bond that is difficult to reposition" and "allow to cure 24 to 72 hours," that sold me. $4+beans.

You're right, the product's likely all the same despite having different packaging.
Thanks Myron
The U.S. Home Depot website says they carry both types, but that doesn't mean the product is actually on the shelf in the stores!

Based on the technical data sheets (Shoe Goo, Boot & Glove), it appears to me that they're identical, so maybe it doesn't matter what the package says.
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Old 07-19-2016, 04:46 PM   #388
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You could have also replaced the end for about the same.....https://www.amazon.com/CURT-58140-Pl...RJZ4W9ECMCFTAF
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Old 08-13-2016, 02:39 PM   #389
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Just completed another self-installation and I am blaming it all on Dave and Doug. They told me it is nuts (not their words) to not have surge protection for the sensitive electrical appliances in the trailer. I refused to have Escape add it for me because we rarely use hookups and I said, “What sensitive electrical appliances?” Back then, at build sheet time I also saw that options could get crazy fast. We got to draw the line someplace.

So it’s 23+K Escape miles later. Now my mood has changed. Great minds met. Dave said he had suffered great indigestion from a fried fridge mother board. Doug, well, he’s our exceptional electrical maharishi. For me it was idle hands time. The fifty dollar surge protectors on line looked good, cost maybe more than I thought they were worth, but practical in a minimalist sort of way.

What fun is that? I bought the Progressive Industries 30 amp surge protector. It is the one you hard wire inside the trailer under the dinette next to that brown thing with all the fuses inside. Installation seemed simple enough. You cut the shore power Romex line to the control center and insert the EMS-HW30C in between. Same one Escape sold.

Quickly noticed picking the right Romex line was a problem. There were several to choose from and they all looked alike. Solution was unscrew and remove the bezel-lid of the brown thing to look at entrance wiring. Left side is 110, right side is 12 volt. Of great comfort was the electrical schematic found pasted to the inside of the brown bezel. This identified where shore power is connected. Now, with the greatest of confidence, I snipped the right Romex and installed the surge protector.

My back yard shore power goes to a GFI in the garage. Plugged in the cord. Went back inside trailer. Nothing! No lights, no remote display. Back in garage saw GFI had tripped, and kept on tripping. So where was the short? Unscrewed lid of the surge box, rechecked all wiring, wiggled stuff, but all was wired by the book. Did I get sent a dud?

After a lot of head scratching I re-plugged into the garage GFI. Noticed now it wasn’t tripping any more. In the trailer all was good. Surge box lid not screwed back on, all display lights are on. My best guess is perhaps when I screwed down the surge protector lid to its box I may have inadvertently pinched a wire. Who knows? Murphy’s Law lives.
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Old 08-13-2016, 03:37 PM   #390
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I had also decided not to include it on by build sheet (due sometime next April), but after reading what it actually does and checking the price on Amazon it is back on the build sheet. It is really much more than a simple surge protector and the installed price is reasonable considering that it and the installation is included in the Escape warranty.
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Old 08-13-2016, 03:45 PM   #391
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Good work Myron. You did it the hard way. If I didn't have the factory EMS, I'd have probably just picked up the exterior suppressor that plugs into the power stand.
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Old 08-13-2016, 03:46 PM   #392
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and I believe Progressive offers a lifetime warranty in the event of malfunction...
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Old 08-13-2016, 03:54 PM   #393
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Good work Myron. You did it the hard way. If I didn't have the factory EMS, I'd have probably just picked up the exterior suppressor that plugs into the power stand.
The issue I found using the plug in models is that they only plug in one way and some power pedestals are too low to allow this.
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Old 08-13-2016, 04:31 PM   #394
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We had an EMS installed on our 19'. Essential equipment to us. Gave that one to the buyers since we wanted them to have the benefit of it. Had Escape install another on the 21'. Judging by the many pedestal problem codes we had on the last trip from storms and more, it was definitely worth it.
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Old 08-13-2016, 07:20 PM   #395
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I put one on our 2011 19'. Looks just like the one in your picture and mounted in the same place. Ours has a readout on the unit rather than external though. Good insurance.

For others doing this, one warning. When mounting the unit make sure the screws aren't too long. The black tank is just under that plywood.

Thanks.
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Old 08-13-2016, 07:23 PM   #396
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For others doing this, one warning. When mounting the unit make sure the screws aren't too long. The black tank is just under that plywood.
Uh oh. Did we have one of those black tank encounters Hugh?
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Old 08-13-2016, 08:44 PM   #397
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Right, Hugh. Not knowing how thick that plywood over the black tank is I added a half inch plywood base before (very carefully) screwing down the inverter.
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Old 08-13-2016, 09:58 PM   #398
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Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
Just completed another self-installation and I am blaming it all on Dave and Doug. They told me it is nuts (not their words) to not have surge protection for the sensitive electrical appliances in the trailer. I refused to have Escape add it for me because we rarely use hookups and I said, “What sensitive electrical appliances?” Back then, at build sheet time I also saw that options could get crazy fast. We got to draw the line someplace.

So it’s 23+K Escape miles later. Now my mood has changed. Great minds met. Dave said he had suffered great indigestion from a fried fridge mother board. Doug, well, he’s our exceptional electrical maharishi. For me it was idle hands time. The fifty dollar surge protectors on line looked good, cost maybe more than I thought they were worth, but practical in a minimalist sort of way.

What fun is that? I bought the Progressive Industries 30 amp surge protector. It is the one you hard wire inside the trailer under the dinette next to that brown thing with all the fuses inside. Installation seemed simple enough. You cut the shore power Romex line to the control center and insert the EMS-HW30C in between. Same one Escape sold.

Quickly noticed picking the right Romex line was a problem. There were several to choose from and they all looked alike. Solution was unscrew and remove the bezel-lid of the brown thing to look at entrance wiring. Left side is 110, right side is 12 volt. Of great comfort was the electrical schematic found pasted to the inside of the brown bezel. This identified where shore power is connected. Now, with the greatest of confidence, I snipped the right Romex and installed the surge protector.

My back yard shore power goes to a GFI in the garage. Plugged in the cord. Went back inside trailer. Nothing! No lights, no remote display. Back in garage saw GFI had tripped, and kept on tripping. So where was the short? Unscrewed lid of the surge box, rechecked all wiring, wiggled stuff, but all was wired by the book. Did I get sent a dud?

After a lot of head scratching I re-plugged into the garage GFI. Noticed now it wasn’t tripping any more. In the trailer all was good. Surge box lid not screwed back on, all display lights are on. My best guess is perhaps when I screwed down the surge protector lid to its box I may have inadvertently pinched a wire. Who knows? Murphy’s Law lives.
Very nice Myron .head's up on the switch on remote , sometimes find it gets accidentally shut off . Need to make a clear plastic guard so that won't happen . It has to do with where it is installed at dinette . Pat
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Old 08-13-2016, 10:14 PM   #399
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Nice job Myron but I'm a little surprised that you used such a mainstream wood for the face plate. I've come to expect you'd use an eye catcher like your version of purple heart.

Man, I'm going to be the last man standing on not having a surge protector. Hope I get around to installing one before it bites me. I know how much sympathy I'd get here if I said that I didn't have one and had fried my electronics.

I'm not hooked up very often though and I still check voltage, polarity and grounding depending on where I am.

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Old 08-13-2016, 10:22 PM   #400
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Nice job Myron but I'm a little surprised that you used such a mainstream wood for the face plate. I've come to expect you'd use an eye catcher like your version of purple heart.

Man, I'm going to be the last man standing on not having a surge protector. Hope I get around to installing one before it bites me. I know how much sympathy I'd get here if I said that I didn't have one and had fried my electronics.

I'm not hooked up very often though and I still check voltage, polarity and grounding depending on where I am.

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Ron I would cry for you !Pat
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