A few modifications to my 19

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by MyronL

Thanks, Pat, Ron. The really big reason for the change was I just had to find a way to get rid of the front table post. We'll never need to convert the table into another bed so making it narrower and shorter for easier seating access was not a concern. It's all about the leg room.

Myron , counters next ? Pat

[MyronL]

Hah. (Don't laugh.) Actually I'm really interested in ChrisR's curved bathroom door mod with the built in medicine cabinet.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by MyronL

Hah. (Don't laugh.) Actually I'm really interested in ChrisR's curved bathroom door mod with the built in medicine cabinet.

Not laughing at all ! Fantastic idea ! Pat

[noblets]

Has anyone installed the AP Products or the Troyer Products Lif-table table brakcet with a folding front leg?

[MyronL]

Propane quick connect mod. This is for sherm2954 because I can't seem to figure out how to add a picture in my response to his private message.

PS ..... Sherm I just noticed in my recent re-installation when upgrading the regulator I ditched the street elbow for a conventional elbow and a close nipple.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by MyronL

Propane quick connect mod. This is for sherm2954 because I can't seem to figure out how to add a picture in my response to his private message...

The thread in which Sherm was asking about installations like this is Looking for instructions on adding remote propane; I posted a link to the thread containing Myron's installation there.

[MyronL]

Another trailer-fun mod done on the cheap and of course, there were lessons learned from it.

The last time I bent an acrylic sheet with heat I used a MAP torch. That might be fine for “polishing” an edge but too hot for clean plastic bending. Went to a thrift store, paid 75 cents for an old hairdryer and cannibalized it for its heat resistant nichrome wire.

Plenty instruction on U-tube. Built a bending jig.

Needed a power source. They said alligator clips and a laptop power charger would work to heat up the wire. Others have used battery chargers. Since heated wire expands, also need a spring to accommodate the slack.

It all worked. Glued up my new custom-made trailer bathroom shelf with Sci-Grip #16 fast-set solvent cement.

First, the hairdryer wire broke repeatedly. Very snarky. Probably too light a gauge, or maybe my charger current was too strong. I was unwilling to spend money on heavier gauge wire. Guessing it took 2 minutes for the wire, which glowed orange fast, to soften the thin acrylic 13 inch sheet. I got two very excellent bends before I quit.

Finished the job ugly, with the MAP torch. Hey, it’s just another journey to the bathroom.

[cpaharley2008]

Myron,
You are the epitome of the passage, "Necessity is the mother of invention" for most of your mods.

[Jim Bennett]

Myron, I have a whole spool of NiCr wire, I could have sent you some, but I imagine the postage would have been as much as your hairdryer. I have all the parts to build an acrylic bender, had them for a few years now, and someday might just get around to building it.

BTW, I like the obscure glass look achieved with the MAP torch.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by MyronL

Another trailer-fun mod done on the cheap

Well, that sorta goes without saying.

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

and someday might just get around to building it.

Myron's project reminded me that I'd built a strip heater in university and probably haven't used it since. I thought that I'd thrown it out. I put the coil in a trough of cement board. It runs on 110 volt.

Ron

[tractors1]

I stopped building clear acrylic parts for trailers as they eventually get scratched from repeated cleaning. If you want it to stay clear it must be a harder plastic, like clear Lexan or polycarbonate plastic.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by tractors1

I stopped building clear acrylic parts for trailers

Yes, now I remember that I made a bunch of "U" shaped beer bottle holders for boating friends. Got tired of replacing them as they could be snapped if a lot of force was put on them. Came to the conclusion that folks that had put away a few beer weren't quite as gentle with equipment as a sober person might be.

Ron

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by MyronL

Another trailer-fun mod done on the cheap and of course, there were lessons learned from it.

The last time I bent an acrylic sheet with heat I used a MAP torch. That might be fine for “polishing” an edge but too hot for clean plastic bending. Went to a thrift store, paid 75 cents for an old hairdryer and cannibalized it for its heat resistant nichrome wire.

Plenty instruction on U-tube. Built a bending jig.

Needed a power source. They said alligator clips and a laptop power charger would work to heat up the wire. Others have used battery chargers. Since heated wire expands, also need a spring to accommodate the slack.

It all worked. Glued up my new custom-made trailer bathroom shelf with Sci-Grip #16 fast-set solvent cement.

First, the hairdryer wire broke repeatedly. Very snarky. Probably too light a gauge, or maybe my charger current was too strong. I was unwilling to spend money on heavier gauge wire. Guessing it took 2 minutes for the wire, which glowed orange fast, to soften the thin acrylic 13 inch sheet. I got two very excellent bends before I quit.

Finished the job ugly, with the MAP torch. Hey, it’s just another journey to the bathroom.

Myron you have been busy . Very nice and the acrylic has class ! Pat

[MyronL]

Josie knows it.

[MyronL]

Another coax connection.

Back when I ordered my 19 my build list included an exterior coax cable connector but, I didn’t pay any mind to its location. They installed it street side by the furnace vent and it runs up inside to cabinet corner near fridge wall.

Much later on we decided our little television would be across the bed to curb side on a corner shelf above foot of the bed. Now, to plug into an antenna I must run coax cable extension across the ceiling, and down to TV.

Last week I decided to change things. Plan is, add a second exterior coax cable entrance connection, behind the spare tire, down low, and run cable inside under the bed and up to the TV. Faster, cleaner, neater, less set-up time.

Ready now to drill holes in the hull. Tuesday I was at the dentist. Drilling is on my mind. Sitting in the chair, a vision appeared, no drilling required.

To the right of the curb side rear hatch opening is a GFI duplex we have never used. Why not replace that duplex with a coax cable connection? Does Home Depot sell one that also has one electrical plug outlet on it? No. No matter. If I ever do need that GFI outlet, there’s always a work-around.

The little duplex flip-up hatch was aged yellow. Nice surprise was finding that Acetone to remove old caulk also cleans plastic right back to white.

[MyronL]

PEX pipe.

Requires no soldering, no gluing. Utilizes Sharkbite compression connections. Just push together. Really simplifies and speeds up a trailer plumbing job. I think the Aussies invented it. Down side is you need special tools for cutting and crimping, and individual parts do get pricey.

I had put a shut off valve on the feed under the dinette seat. Wanted to add a release drain, for that last 4¼ ounces of standing water hiding in the wall and up against the toilet valve. I know water will be waiting there for our next surprise freeze, to catch me un-winterized. I can’t be expected to always remember doing everything, can I? Today I got to mess with PEX.

Some plumbers shake their heads over the Sharkbite technology. You might feel doubtful about too much reliance on plastic compression. I do. Old habits die hard. Combine plastic with a brass tee like I did here and you’ll find out how much leakage on-the-cheap clamping with a little screw-tight pipe strap will get you. It’s good to have a friend with the right tools.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by MyronL

Some plumbers shake their heads over the Sharkbite technology. You might feel doubtful about too much reliance on plastic compression. I do. Old habits die hard.

I was a late adopter of pex. I guess a lot of exposure to poly-b problems put me off. Now I love it. I'll never solder a connection again. Yah, shark bite fittings almost make a job too easy. First time I used them in an awkward spot and they rotated when I moved the handle I expected an explosion of water. But no worries, no problem.

I went all in, have 1/2" and 3/4" pex crimper and I use crimp rings.

Good mod to have done. That wouldn't be a good area to have freeze up.

Ron

[Oldtimer]

THe shark bites work great as long as you have a straight cut, any angle in the cut is what causes the leaks

[MyronL]

Like Ron said, sometimes when you’re inside it is a big stretch to reach out to that little door handle to close the door. Ron has the right idea. We here are also very fond of handy, extra grab handles.

The area of the door is important, it being a place where accidents can happen. Like on roofs, or cliffs, that first step is a big one. Maybe not a terribly urgent issue here but, I got motivated to study the situation when, like Ron, between projects, needed something to work on. Wanted first, of course, to do exactly what Ron did. No way I have that capability so it becomes, how can I work it and still have a nice handle to grab?

A solution must be effective, attractive, (a relative thing) and, if necessary, reversible.

Got drill taps and scrap aluminum materials in the garage. It all came together when I spotted a length of 1-inch PVC where my plumbing junk is kept. It felt good in my hand. Bought two 3 inch stainless steel ¼-20 machine screws, lock nuts, plastic paint.

“…The forces between it acting as a grab handle…and it acting as a grab rail for steadying a person are considerable and the forces transferred to the door are different.” Ron.

Now, I’m not well versed in Oriental cultures. I believe they have a clever philosophy over there, that employs utilizing an opponent’s energy to your advantage. The Ying and the Yang of it is, I then searched my trailer door for pressure points or lanes that could be employed to counter-balance opposite forces.

A key of course is, like Ron says, finding a way to make the grab handle rock stable. It is after all, attached to a swinging door.

One re-dedicated screw clamps it all together. Towels, anyone?

[skiman]

The suction cup grab bar works well as an inside door handle. It stays put. Does fall off during winter storage but stayed in place spring through fall. Can be placed on the door in multiple positions.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/MHI-Safe-er...ab-Bar/3148407